Honda conversion.

[foz01]

Captain, Pm'd you

[campbell]

Look forward to mapping update, Captain.

[DDtB]

Likewise.. Hope you get up and running again soon!




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[Gourlay83]

Well I can offer some experience now

I picked up my Honda'd s1 from Craig earlier in the week. I stuck with the standard civic ECU and it's a bit of a pig when cold: spluttery, stalls on a closed throttle etc for the first 5 minutes until the engine warms up. Ok out in the country but a pain in the arse in town! Heel/toe shifting is fine but sitting at junctions it's difficult to keep the revs steady as it "hunts".

Awesome workmanship, communication and service from Craig as expected but I'll be getting a Hondata sooner rather than later and have it mapped properly.

Doubt very much that's mapping - always found the standard ECU to work perfectly at idle, it's only when you use more revs/load that the standard map becomes risky.

I'd be checking the IACV, they always seize especially after sitting - It's a simple job to free them off but just be carful not damage the magnet (People have ordered so many replacement IACV's that they've been on back order at Honda for years).

I'd also be checking the TPS calibration and throttle/idle set-up correctly.

Alan

FYI - The ECU is in 'Open' Loop when warming up (hardly uses any features - like Lambda sensor etc), once up to temperature then 'Closed' Loop is used (fuel tables are trimmed to optimum)

[Scuffers]

FYI - The ECU is in 'Open' Loop when warming up (hardly uses any features - like Lambda sensor etc), once up to temperature then 'Closed' Loop is used (fuel tables are trimmed to optimum)

yes and no,

it's only open loop for <20 seconds (and usually less than 10) as soon as the ECU get's reliable lambda readings.

crap idle after cold start can be a sign of a sluggish lambda or one placed in an odd position in the exhaust.

(edit - also a lot of other reasons for sh*t running!)

[Gourlay83]

FYI - The ECU is in 'Open' Loop when warming up (hardly uses any features - like Lambda sensor etc), once up to temperature then 'Closed' Loop is used (fuel tables are trimmed to optimum)

yes and no,

it's only open loop for <20 seconds (and usually less than 10) as soon as the ECU get's reliable lambda readings.

crap idle after cold start can be a sign of a sluggish lambda or one placed in an odd position in the exhaust.

(edit - also a lot of other reasons for sh*t running!)

Doesn't coolant temperature come into it?, cars i've mapped took longer than 20 secs to click over to closed loop.

[Scuffers]

FYI - The ECU is in 'Open' Loop when warming up (hardly uses any features - like Lambda sensor etc), once up to temperature then 'Closed' Loop is used (fuel tables are trimmed to optimum)

yes and no,

it's only open loop for <20 seconds (and usually less than 10) as soon as the ECU get's reliable lambda readings.

crap idle after cold start can be a sign of a sluggish lambda or one placed in an odd position in the exhaust.

(edit - also a lot of other reasons for sh*t running!)

Doesn't coolant temperature come into it?, cars i've mapped took longer than 20 secs to click over to closed loop.

yes and no, Lambda target is affected by ECT but in reality, only at very low numbers.

part of EU3 on was a requirement to be running in target from cold in <30 sec's, so to achieve this, the lambda is pushed hard from start to get stable readings ASAP, typically, <10 sec's.

if it's not locking in the first few sec's, then that's usually a sign of a slow lambda or less than optimal lambda placement in the exhaust system.

One of the downsides to long primaried 4-2-1 systems is that the lag from exhaust valve to Lambda is pretty long, thus slowing down initial lock and sometimes exaggerated oscillation at idle and low loads, however, with a quality 'fast' sensor this is usually minimal.

[captain]

Well I can offer some experience now

I picked up my Honda'd s1 from Craig earlier in the week. I stuck with the standard civic ECU and it's a bit of a pig when cold: spluttery, stalls on a closed throttle etc for the first 5 minutes until the engine warms up. Ok out in the country but a pain in the arse in town! Heel/toe shifting is fine but sitting at junctions it's difficult to keep the revs steady as it "hunts".

Awesome workmanship, communication and service from Craig as expected but I'll be getting a Hondata sooner rather than later and have it mapped properly.

Doubt very much that's mapping - always found the standard ECU to work perfectly at idle, it's only when you use more revs/load that the standard map becomes risky.

I'd be checking the IACV, they always seize especially after sitting - It's a simple job to free them off but just be carful not damage the magnet (People have ordered so many replacement IACV's that they've been on back order at Honda for years).

I'd also be checking the TPS calibration and throttle/idle set-up correctly.

Alan

FYI - The ECU is in 'Open' Loop when warming up (hardly uses any features - like Lambda sensor etc), once up to temperature then 'Closed' Loop is used (fuel tables are trimmed to optimum)

Thanks. Yeah, in fairness, that problem fixed itself within a couple of hundred miles and is now running fine.

Having said that - i stopped for petrol last mnight and the car flat out refused to start. Yes, i definitely put petrol in it!

Plenty of battery power, fuses all OK, turning over and definitely getting fuel but just won't fire. I checked all the sensor plugs and they looked ok but I had to get the car recovered to my mates garage in Kemnay. No idea what's wrong

[Scuffers]

if it is not even trying to start, then it's not a mapping issue, start maps are un-editable, only thing you can do to mess this up is use the wrong injector size vs. what's installed, and even then it will usually start but fail to carry on running.

If the injectors are running (as in fuel into the engine), then the problem is wiring, as the ECU will not inject fuel if it see's a problem.

OBD/KPro readout will show any failed/weird sensors.

[captain]

Yeah I didn't think the non-starting was map related at all.

Will try to get codes off it tonight, cheers

[Gourlay83]

other than the Injectors etc previously mentioned, what fuel pressure is he setting the conversations too?.

You have to add an aftermarket FPR, worth checking it's set to correct pressure (3.0bar normally for N/A) - probably fine, but worth a check.

Getting the error codes is the way to go.

[captain]

Yeah it's got an FPR, going over to the garage tonight to have a look at it. Cheers

[captain]

Blown relay, water ingress. All sorted and going like a train again (a bloody fast one at that).

Mapping re-booked for a couple of weeks time

[a4drk]

Whats the options ? - instead of Honda ?

What about the VX220 - 2.0 turbo vauxhall engine
or the Audi 1.8 t
or Ford Zetec etc ?

and whats wrong with the Toyota engine ?
mine seems to be bullet proof

David

[captain]

Ford Duratec is popular.
There's a chap on ph putting a 1.6 ecoboost in one.

With enough time and money you could do anything - v6, v8, v10, whatever!

The Honda is tried and tested I guess. From what I know of the Duratec it's quite involved, parts need to be modified etc. You don't just get a kit and an engine and bolt it all together. It does have the benefit of using the original box and shafts so feels very oem, more so than the Honda I think.