NLC: Bored with a camera.

andy_snap · Post by **andy_snap** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:09 am

Are you shooting jpeg or raw??

What image editing software are you using??

If you shoot raw you have full control in the conversion process
and can adjust saturation, contrast and much,much more!

If you shoot jpeg then you are a wee bit more limited but it's
all up to Photoshop or whatever editing program you are using.

In Photoshop 'curves' or 'levels' will allow you to adjust contrast etc.

Andy.

EliseR · Post by **EliseR** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:41 am

andy_snap wrote:Are you shooting jpeg or raw??

What image editing software are you using??

If you shoot raw you have full control in the conversion process
and can adjust saturation, contrast and much,much more!

If you shoot jpeg then you are a wee bit more limited but it's
all up to Photoshop or whatever editing program you are using.

In Photoshop 'curves' or 'levels' will allow you to adjust contrast etc.

Andy.

I am shooting JPEG as the Raw files take up massive space. I have a 16GB plus a 4GB CF cards, so it should not matter I suppose.

I don't have a copy of Photoshop, and My Fireworks CS3 trial has expried. I am due to do a software audit shortly, will find a need for both products!

G.

David Bryce · Post by **David Bryce** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:57 am

what Andy said

also, while I shoot everything in Raw - AdobeRGB, with the D200 if you want jpgs straight out of the camera that have 'pop' use these settings:

image quality - fine, image size - large, jpeg compression - optimal quality

white balance - auto

in the 'shooting menu' change the colour space to sRGB, then in 'optimize image' go to custom then +1 sharpening, auto contrast, color mode III and auto saturation

personally I would not do any of that though, I want my images out of the camera to be 'neutral' so I can decide how I want each individual image to look

EliseR · Post by **EliseR** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:02 pm

David Bryce wrote:what Andy said

also, while I shoot everything in Raw - AdobeRGB, with the D200 if you want jpgs straight out of the camera that have 'pop' use these settings:

image quality -fine, image size - large, jpeg compression - optimal quality

white balance - auto

in the 'shooting menu' change the colour space to sRGB, then in 'optimize image' go to custom then +1 sharpening, auto contrast, color mode III and auto saturation

personally I would not do any of that though, I want my images out of the camera to be 'neutral' so I can decide how I want each individual image to look

Can I add all those setting to one of the memory banks, number 2 for example? And then revert to default mode by switching memory banks?

G.

David Bryce · Post by **David Bryce** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:05 pm

yes, while that's not something I have ever used, that's what the memory banks are for

and regarding software, give me a call

EliseR · Post by **EliseR** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:09 pm

Here is an example I took yesterday, not sure if increasing the contrast would help, was hoping to enhance the overall colours:

(Downsampled).

G.
Edit: Also, how do I avoid the trees in the background being blurred whilst keeping the forground branches in focus too? Two different shots and merge them?

David Bryce · Post by **David Bryce** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:51 pm

this is with just with a wee adjustment to levels and a tiny boost of saturation:

the easiest way to get the foreground and back round in focus is to use a small aperture, maybe around f22, and use the 'hyperfocul' focusing technique

EliseR · Post by **EliseR** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:56 pm

David Bryce wrote:this is with just with a wee adjustment to levels and a tiny boost of saturation:

the easiest way to get the foreground and back round in focus is to use a small aperture, maybe around f22, and use the 'hyperfocul' focusing technique

Thats an insane difference, like a completely different photo. Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...

G.

David Bryce · Post by **David Bryce** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:01 pm

Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...

buy a book

EliseR · Post by **EliseR** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:05 pm

David Bryce wrote:
Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...
buy a book

My brain just melted:
http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html

Should have got a point and shoot

RDH · Post by **RDH** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:06 pm

David Bryce wrote:
Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...
buy a really expensive book

EliseR · Post by **EliseR** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:13 pm

RDH wrote:
David Bryce wrote:
Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...
buy a really expensive book

Plenty freebies online...

G.

David Bryce · Post by **David Bryce** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:14 pm

RDH wrote:
David Bryce wrote:
Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...
buy a really expensive book

tell you what, my normal hourly rate for photography is £125, but for tuition I will do you a special deal of £75

Skyenet · Post by **Skyenet** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:17 pm

EliseR wrote:
My brain just melted:
http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html

Should have got a point and shoot

Hi Gary

Like your landscape

The scale on the lens is what I used to use when doing jobs in the Navy if I was'nt able to pre focus on something (Water very hard to focus on

). That was fine for SLR cameras with scales on the lenses but often we had to use larger format cameras with no such scales.

A good example was at Faslane where they wanted shots of Submarines as close as possible, going as fast as possible, with the mountains in the background in focus.

The cameras we used were normally Mamiya C330 twin lens reflex cameras which only had a distance scale at the side of the camera so we actually had to work out the Hyperfocal distance using a formula. We had to use a medium telephoto launch to put a bit of distance between ourselves in the Police launch and the fast approaching Submarine.

Using a telephoto lens gives you less depth of field (the distance between the nearest thing in focus and the furthest away thing in focus) so that didn't help matters and plus because we were on a boat traveling at speed we had to use higher shutter speeds to avoid camera shake which meant that you couldn't use high F numbers such as F22 to give you more depth of field. Its a wonder we ever got anything at times considering the dull weather as well.

Here is one example - must colour it in sometime

graeme · Post by **graeme** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 7:13 pm

David Bryce wrote:
Haven't got a clue about F22 and Hyperfocul...
buy a book

David, Can I ask a wee bit of advice about colour profiles? You shoot Raw + AdobeRBG. I do too. But this means that when my photos are saved as jpegs for the web (flickr or wherever) the images look washed out when viewed in a browser. What is the best way to do the conversion? Shoot in sRGB in the first place? Shoot in AdobeRGB but then work in sRGB in photoshop/aperture? Convert the jpeg? Do jpegs have any concept of colour profile or do you have to convert first, then create the jpeg? I'm confuddled.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

Cheers,
Graeme