scib4 wrote:Sorry for the late reply, been away all weekend
Hard top come off this evening and will be staying off
But i may keep it for the winter if i keep it that long
Well spotted Campbell noticing its on different suspension
Mods currently fitted are LEDA suspension which i have been told is not the best but it seems pretty dam good to me. Dan, JPS was also against them until he had a shot and was pleasantly surprised. Will hopefully find out soon enough on track! also have the standard Koni Red's. Blue Flame exhaust with standard Cat, but i also have a straight through Cat and a silenced Cat which i might fit? Carbonair induction kit again with standard air box and K&N. And finally Sparco harnesses
What I missed was the Blueflame exhaust. I've had one of these since 2001, fantastic piece of kit, finally needed a weld last year but provided the perfect under-load soundtrack yet whisper-quiet on steady throttle. Purrfect. Just watch the clearances, Blueflame tell me they gave up on my original version (perhaps yours is the small-can development?) because it was just too big!
I ran with a cat-replacement pipe for a while but became tired (literally) of the fumes that roll over the rear screen under deceleration, the CO does make you drowsy on long runs. Avoid IMHO. Little to be gained other than noise. Tell me more about this carbonair kit? Standard air box you say?
Couple of questions now........
What tyre pressure should i be running a, on road b, on track?
I am wanting to get the Geo checked, what setting for road/track use? Should i get the upgraded toe links before this and before i track it? On Yoko Advan tyres LTS.
What brake pads are tried and tested? Have use Carbotechs XP8's on my last 2 cars and found them pretty impressive, like wise discs, ones fitted are drilled. Last year on FF7 i managed to crack a pair on the S2000 on the first day so not that keen on them TBH
What else do i need to be doing before FF8? Oil, filters?
Tyres...not sure if the 111S-style rims result in the same pressures, but road should be 23 and 27 (front - rear) approx for original Pirellis. After much experimentation I stuck with these figures also for my Toyo T1-S / T1-Rs. Much less for slicks though. On track, I think now actually you can *drop* the pressures if the tyres are made to work hard, as the heat obviously raised them and can make the car a bit slidey. At least I *think* that's what Robin was telling me at Donnie!
Geo straight from the manual will do you.
Leda was the only alternative to Konis for a short while in the early days of the S1, their reputation from other applications seemed good but everyone I knew that had them seemed to be getting them permanently rebuilt. I'd get a set of the S2-for-S1 Bilsteinds from Lotus or (for a choice of ride height...say 110 or 120mm for cosmetic purposes!), from Steve Butts. These are cracking dampers for the car and hold out fine for trackdays. If you have pots of cash, S2 LSS can be adpated for S1 but that setup is hard as nails. Well damped. But hard.
Now I should know if the 135 comes with drilled discs...in any case, whatever it's got, then my personal fave pad is Pagid RS4-2. For less money (almost half the price depending where you buy them) Mintex 1144 runs a reasonable 2nd and both pads work fine for general driving. But when you heat up the Pagids they are *brilliant* for spirited road runs and track days. Zero fade.
Before your big trip, I'd consider changing the oil, poss brake pads if low, and I'd certainly take a fresh set of pads with me. Also worth checking if your brake hoses are rubber or braided...the braided ones add a shade more feel and don't bulge when you stand on the brakes in track situations.
But otherwise, the Elise is ever-ready for hard action
Welcome to the club.
