TVR T350
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 3:50 pm
What's your opinon?
Not for me but for a friend.
Not for me but for a friend.
Scottish Elises
The Scottish Elise Community Online
https://www.scottishelises.com/phpbb/
TVR T350
https://www.scottishelises.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3490
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Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 3:53 pm
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:04 pm
I should add he drives a clio v6 and does not need the car for track days.
Just cruising around.
Just cruising around.
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:11 pm
Man need big balls for one of them
/tonto
/tonto
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:24 pm
Yeah - sorry, serious answer:Gareth wrote:I should add he drives a clio v6 and does not need the car for track days.
Just cruising around.
AFAIK, they are actually one of the better handling TVRs - bettered only by the Saggy-arse. They have that Speed 6 engine, though, which is a worry. Reputedly, recent engines are a lot better, but they are still pretty highly strung and a fortune to fix when they go wrong...
That, combined with what are silly prices for fibreglass cars on steel frames, would definately put me off. However, if he buys with short term ownership in mind and a strong warranty, then it's a possibility - they do look and sound the bollox. Even if none of them get close to claimed power outputs, they are still pretty facking quick in a straight line!
Just hope he doesn't think he can rely on one as transport - second car for sure.
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:30 pm
we've got a Tuscan S so I feel I can comment:
running costs aren't near so bad as you might expect. Fuel is low 20s mpg average, down to low teens or 10-11 'on a run'. Insurance is on a par with an Elise. Brakes aren't too bad as they're not very heavy, but watch the brake distribution when braking hard - it is a tad too heavy toward the back.
they are a VERY different thing to drive to anything I've ever driven before, the Tusc is edgier than the 350 or Tamora. As on an Elise, geometry is crucial, they can feel very odd if the geo is out. It's very sensitive to tyre pressures too and also tyre brands - I'd always go for Eagle F1s or Proxes. I'm less keen on the Bridgestones, especially the SO3 which I'm not a fan of.
On a test drive, (if 2nd hand) check the owner warms it properly: idle it at 1400rpm from cold. (it has to be held at that as there's no cold start facility on the ECU and if it idles at 800rpm the oil pump can't flow enough, resulting in cam wear). Rough guide for oil temps is below 3000rpm til oil's at 50c, 4500from 50 til the oil reaches 70 then it's all systems go.
I'd never hesitate to recommend one (I fancy a T350c myself when funds allow) but go into it with your eyes open!
running costs aren't near so bad as you might expect. Fuel is low 20s mpg average, down to low teens or 10-11 'on a run'. Insurance is on a par with an Elise. Brakes aren't too bad as they're not very heavy, but watch the brake distribution when braking hard - it is a tad too heavy toward the back.
they are a VERY different thing to drive to anything I've ever driven before, the Tusc is edgier than the 350 or Tamora. As on an Elise, geometry is crucial, they can feel very odd if the geo is out. It's very sensitive to tyre pressures too and also tyre brands - I'd always go for Eagle F1s or Proxes. I'm less keen on the Bridgestones, especially the SO3 which I'm not a fan of.
On a test drive, (if 2nd hand) check the owner warms it properly: idle it at 1400rpm from cold. (it has to be held at that as there's no cold start facility on the ECU and if it idles at 800rpm the oil pump can't flow enough, resulting in cam wear). Rough guide for oil temps is below 3000rpm til oil's at 50c, 4500from 50 til the oil reaches 70 then it's all systems go.
I'd never hesitate to recommend one (I fancy a T350c myself when funds allow) but go into it with your eyes open!
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:43 pm
Wow - that's a pretty major omission in an ECU! I guess that could cause the horrendous engine reliability reputation - it's the top end that goes on them, isn't it?tuscan_thunder wrote:
On a test drive, (if 2nd hand) check the owner warms it properly: idle it at 1400rpm from cold. (it has to be held at that as there's no cold start facility on the ECU and if it idles at 800rpm the oil pump can't flow enough, resulting in cam wear). Rough guide for oil temps is below 3000rpm til oil's at 50c, 4500from 50 til the oil reaches 70 then it's all systems go.
My (frankly, cheapy for a performance ECU) Emerald has a whole page set aside for cold idle correction... Amazed that TVR consider this to be okay for sale - they could source a variety of proprietary ECUs that do this as a matter of course. Must cost them a fortune in warranty rebuilds....
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:47 pm
Thanks all
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:50 pm
Was there not a a buying guide in last months Evo ?
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:52 pm
Cos they never make mistakes.....Sanjoy wrote:Was there not a a buying guide in last months Evo ?
One of the joys of evo is looking for the little apology panel at the beginning of each issue, explaining the shyte they spouted in last months buyer guide....
Nice pictures, but I don't pay attention to the writing any more....
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:54 pm
I used their guide buying my car ..... oh bugger
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:57 pm
Sanjoy wrote:I used their guide buying my car ..... oh bugger
Think you might have spotted any issues by now, old chap
You musta have had it same sorta time, if not longer than me?
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:00 pm
Er new engine......new suspension.....new suspension again....new radiator......new windscreen......
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:01 pm
Yeah.... standard consumables.....Sanjoy wrote:Er new engine......new suspension.....new suspension again....new radiator......new windscreen......
Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:43 am
Too be fair, a cold start's not too much of an issue as the engine'll idle away quite happily - it's just the oil pump (standard one) isn't beefy enough at 700-800rpm to chuck oil to the nether regions of the cams.Shug wrote:Wow - that's a pretty major omission in an ECU! I guess that could cause the horrendous engine reliability reputation - it's the top end that goes on them, isn't it?tuscan_thunder wrote:
On a test drive, (if 2nd hand) check the owner warms it properly: idle it at 1400rpm from cold. (it has to be held at that as there's no cold start facility on the ECU and if it idles at 800rpm the oil pump can't flow enough, resulting in cam wear). Rough guide for oil temps is below 3000rpm til oil's at 50c, 4500from 50 til the oil reaches 70 then it's all systems go.
My (frankly, cheapy for a performance ECU) Emerald has a whole page set aside for cold idle correction... Amazed that TVR consider this to be okay for sale - they could source a variety of proprietary ECUs that do this as a matter of course. Must cost them a fortune in warranty rebuilds....
The engine reliability reputation is, in my opinion, fairly unfounded.
The BMW M3 engine has a FAR worse reputation - it's just that BMW's warranty department is better than TVR's.
The early Speed Six engines did have cam wear problems caused by poor casting but, in fairness to TVR, it was a supplier problem, not their own but, even so, they still sold cars with poor quality cams in. A later car should have no issues, the 3.6 in the T350 should have all the problems resolved.
When the 3.6 and 4litre engines became available (originally it was 4litre only @360 or 380bhp for the Red Rose) the problems were basically solved. (The 3.6 is in all 'standard' Tuscans, Tamoras and T350s from that engine's introduction with 350bhp, and the 4 litre was tweaked to 390bhp and later 400bhp in the Tuscan S) Incidentally, the engines, unlike TVR's own V8, always seem to make on or over their claimed power.
When I think about it, with the changes that Smolenski's been making since he took over, the engine may now have a cold start but don't quote me on that.