Scottish Elises

I have had a look at 2 or 3 s160. what sort of things should i be looking out for on these? Some people say they have cold morning starting issues is this the case for all of them and can it be fixed? Anything else i should know about them?

Cheers
Craig

LSS?

As i understand it, there were 50 SVA made cars identifiable by VIN numbers, pushing 160bhp as the ECU is in the front or in the engine bay whereas the later cars build no 50 onwards are 150bhp as standard and have the revised ECU in the boot.

Still holding their value very well at the 12-12.5k mark!!!

Lumpy idels at 1100-1500rpm can be cured by a remap and improved air flow through filter mod.

I was going to ask performance wise how do they compare in real world terms to a 111s or a standard 120bhp?

Craig,

Have you thought about going down the lines of a PTP style kit and fitting the 160 sport spoiler?


Mac

Get a set of cams, verniers and an Emerald. Then get it set up by someone who knows what their doing and you have a 160...or better???

If you want the power thats all you need. You have the CR box already and its much more exclusive.... there are loads of 160's lying around looking for owners.

Performance is supposed to be pretty much the same as the 111s cos the 111s has the c/r box which makes a big difference.

The 160 does sound a lot better but the trade off is they're a lot more peaky & a pain around town.

I've got a 111s which I like (but I use it every day & have only tracked it once)

The 160 i had a go of had verniers, a remap & I think it had a replacement fuel rail & regulator and it would still stall at junctions when cold... Some of them also have hot starting issues.

If I was buying today I'd still find it very difficult to choose between the two.... I'd like to say I'd get a 160 with a c/r box, (they just sound really quite special) but I'd maybe just stick with what I've got because I'm still using it every day.....

depends what you want.....they're really quite different to each other.

Oh & don't discount a standard car........you get a lot of car for 8.5 - 9 K & depending what you want, a standard car is the best platform for modifying if you feel that way inclined....

Yup upgrading the car you have is what I would do if you are after more power, get some victories, harnesses and PTP kit.

Unless you are looking for something better altogether by going down the S2 route....

John Reid wrote: there are loads of 160's lying around looking for owners.

Yeah, and you never see more than one 135 Sport at a time.

D'oh!

bernie_eccle wrote:

John Reid wrote: there are loads of 160's lying around looking for owners.

Yeah, and you never see more than one 135 Sport at a time.

D'oh!

its not like there all the same colour either.........

DTH bodies and an Emerald - Makes the 160 a very decent car?!

Whacked straight from a Sel*ck post?

Anyway, minor research shows that most would opt for a modded standard or a 111s rather than a 160? However the point at hand here is resale, and does the 160 not fair better.

I ask having had a bottle of wine and in 'Mags' mode, but there are a good few decent 160's kicking around, one imparticular with only 19k on the clock and totally standard, a good platform or worth finding a 'special' modded s1?

And i thought i would never have the worry of a budet so to speak, getting shacked up, having responsibilities and a mortgage shape all of us young un's up huh!!

Dave

Still recon the cost to change has to be higher than cost to mod.... if you know your own cars history, make it better. You might just be getting a hidden bucket.

I was warned of cars with really low mileage. Dont use them, you have to change heaps.

Then again, if you know your own cars history...

John Reid wrote:Still recon the cost to change has to be higher than cost to mod....

Not relevant to Dave though.

So how much would it cost me to mod my car then? If say i went for PTP kit or cams, emerald, and verniers? And who could set up the car?

Cheers
Craig

Then there is the B&C 160 ....

Depends on what you want really and it can be staged.


Buy the verniers first and you'll get a little (very little) then go for the emerald which again won't get you hellish much.

Stick in the cam and you'll be getting the benifits of the cams, the verniers and the flexibility of the emerald.

Of course if your feeling flush you could get it all in one go or vist the PTP website and get their 170 kit.

Given that you'll probably have some of the bits they have to offer you can deduct the cost from the complete kit.

http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk


Mac

craigs135s wrote:So how much would it cost me to mod my car then? If say i went for PTP kit or cams, emerald, and verniers? And who could set up the car?

Cheers
Craig

I wouldnt think you would need the PTP kit, you already have a ported head as std on the 135. I missed out on a set of new fast road cams on Ebay, went for £91.50.... also verniers come up regularly..

The Emerald is probly the most expensive bit that I would buy new. I think its in the £350-£450 range. Best person to ask is Shug, we had a good chat about what was possible without going to individual throttle bodies.

Dan at Jude performance has "sorted" several 160's. Apparently they can be as much as 12deg out on the inlet cams.

Dan also said that the std LSS suspension isnt all that good and the S2 suspension is a better option for regular road use.