What Car to Get #3
Re: What Car to Get #3
Monthly cost means absolutely nothing at all. I'll lease you a Range Rover for £10/month.
(Deposit £100,000, booking fee £15,000, 200 miles pa.)
(Deposit £100,000, booking fee £15,000, 200 miles pa.)
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- Stevoraith
- Posts: 1068
- Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:31 pm
- Location: Kirkcaldy, Fife
Re: What Car to Get #3
That’s what I thought when I read the post.
The <£200 monthlies for a luxo-barge had me checking what else could be had for decent money but everything seems to be £2k+ as a deposit so when you add that on it makes the monthly equivalent c. £300.
Still good for what you’re getting but you seem to be at the mercy of what manufacturers want to shift rather than what you really actually want.
I’d rather stick the £300 a month into a personal loan and have something to keep at the end of it.
But then that’s because I’m quite risk averse and admittedly I’m looking at older cars over a longer term.
I think I’m in the minority now though, I’ve seen a fair few adverts for cars where they don’t even tell you how much it is to buy outright, only the monthly payments.
The <£200 monthlies for a luxo-barge had me checking what else could be had for decent money but everything seems to be £2k+ as a deposit so when you add that on it makes the monthly equivalent c. £300.
Still good for what you’re getting but you seem to be at the mercy of what manufacturers want to shift rather than what you really actually want.
I’d rather stick the £300 a month into a personal loan and have something to keep at the end of it.
But then that’s because I’m quite risk averse and admittedly I’m looking at older cars over a longer term.
I think I’m in the minority now though, I’ve seen a fair few adverts for cars where they don’t even tell you how much it is to buy outright, only the monthly payments.
VX220 2.2 - Gone
BMW 335d Touring F31- Fastest car on the road
MINI Cooper 1.5- More fun than the BMW
BMW 335d Touring F31- Fastest car on the road
MINI Cooper 1.5- More fun than the BMW
Re: What Car to Get #3
Thats what get me with the S4 it looks the same as a 1.4 s-line.
"Here for a good time not a long time"
- douglasgdmw
- Posts: 2755
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Re: What Car to Get #3
Completely agree, when we went to look at the S4, apart from the mirrors it does not look much different. However it does have an advantage of stealth, change the mirrors and no one will know the performance and hassle you at the lights.Scotty C wrote:Thats what get me with the S4 it looks the same as a 1.4 s-line.
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Alpine A110S
Mini JCW
Land Rover Defender Puma 90
Land Rover Series 2a softop
Mini JCW
Land Rover Defender Puma 90
Land Rover Series 2a softop
What Car to Get #3
I like the Stealth Mode.
And Swiss Pete did similar with his de-badged S6 Avant
I guess with a couple of truck bits you could get a TDI S-line to rival a true S series car for much less coin.
But that wouldn't really be my objective.
Anyway. It's all pie in the sky. Our vRS wagon is doing us proud ta.
And Swiss Pete did similar with his de-badged S6 Avant
I guess with a couple of truck bits you could get a TDI S-line to rival a true S series car for much less coin.
But that wouldn't really be my objective.
Anyway. It's all pie in the sky. Our vRS wagon is doing us proud ta.
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- douglasgdmw
- Posts: 2755
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Re: What Car to Get #3
That was one of the reasons that we ticked the debadge option on the 335D, everyone thought it was a 320D and no traffic light hassles.
Added bonus was going for white as most motorway drivers thought it was a police car
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Added bonus was going for white as most motorway drivers thought it was a police car
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Alpine A110S
Mini JCW
Land Rover Defender Puma 90
Land Rover Series 2a softop
Mini JCW
Land Rover Defender Puma 90
Land Rover Series 2a softop
- Stevoraith
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Re: What Car to Get #3
That kind of bugs me about the F30 3ers.
When I had my e46 I liked the fact that most people couldn’t tell it was a 330, but those in the know could spot the tailpipes or brakes or grille and tell it apart from a 320d.
If I’m buying a car with 315bhp I’d like to be able to differentiate it from one with 180bhp, even if it is just to the sad sacks that notice a different tailpipe!
When I had my e46 I liked the fact that most people couldn’t tell it was a 330, but those in the know could spot the tailpipes or brakes or grille and tell it apart from a 320d.
If I’m buying a car with 315bhp I’d like to be able to differentiate it from one with 180bhp, even if it is just to the sad sacks that notice a different tailpipe!
VX220 2.2 - Gone
BMW 335d Touring F31- Fastest car on the road
MINI Cooper 1.5- More fun than the BMW
BMW 335d Touring F31- Fastest car on the road
MINI Cooper 1.5- More fun than the BMW
Re: What Car to Get #3
6+23
Other offers are available. Your life is at risk if you don't keep up repayments.
I remember my father drumming into me that the only way to buy a car was at 2 or 3 years old, let someone else take the hit on the depreciation. Once upon a time that was pure gold. Still instances where that is very much the case but increasingly it's very much not the case. Best to approach with an open mind rather than pre judge.
With my contract hired Golf R and my S90, and also the Shadow Edition, if I had walked in with a suitcase full of cash, bought the cars at best discounted price available, driven round the block then back to trade it in with 10 miles on the clock it would have cost me more than the entire cost of the 24 month contract hire. To focus soley on monthly payments would be school boy folly. Add up the complete cost. Factor in everything, every last penny. Be brutally honest with yourself. Right down to your AA cover, your road tax, your tyres, your magic tree air fresh. A brake fluid change. The cost of petrol to Halfords and back. Factor in the returns on your freed up capital too. I did. Maybe it's not for you. Stick to what you know. Even when i compared v buying a used one the figures were nowhere near stacking up.
Regards,
Jeremy
Other offers are available. Your life is at risk if you don't keep up repayments.
I remember my father drumming into me that the only way to buy a car was at 2 or 3 years old, let someone else take the hit on the depreciation. Once upon a time that was pure gold. Still instances where that is very much the case but increasingly it's very much not the case. Best to approach with an open mind rather than pre judge.
With my contract hired Golf R and my S90, and also the Shadow Edition, if I had walked in with a suitcase full of cash, bought the cars at best discounted price available, driven round the block then back to trade it in with 10 miles on the clock it would have cost me more than the entire cost of the 24 month contract hire. To focus soley on monthly payments would be school boy folly. Add up the complete cost. Factor in everything, every last penny. Be brutally honest with yourself. Right down to your AA cover, your road tax, your tyres, your magic tree air fresh. A brake fluid change. The cost of petrol to Halfords and back. Factor in the returns on your freed up capital too. I did. Maybe it's not for you. Stick to what you know. Even when i compared v buying a used one the figures were nowhere near stacking up.
Regards,
Jeremy
Elise S1 Red Edition
Volvo S90 Momentum Edition
M140 Shadow Edition
Volvo S90 Momentum Edition
M140 Shadow Edition
Re: What Car to Get #3
I've done loads of detailed sums on different buying strategies. The ONLY thing which makes a SIGNIFICANT difference to the cost of owning a car is the sticker price. New or used doesn't matter. Cash or lease doesn't matter. How long you keep it doesn't matter.
Obviously I'm talking general cases here, and everyone has a story of how their lease deal was the best thing ever, or how low the bank rates are, or how much they got knocked off for a PCP deal, but the GENERAL case is that over the lifetime of a car nothing makes a huge dent in the monthly costs except the price on the windscreen. The bigger that is, the more it's going to cost you to own.
Obviously I'm talking general cases here, and everyone has a story of how their lease deal was the best thing ever, or how low the bank rates are, or how much they got knocked off for a PCP deal, but the GENERAL case is that over the lifetime of a car nothing makes a huge dent in the monthly costs except the price on the windscreen. The bigger that is, the more it's going to cost you to own.
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Re: What Car to Get #3
Graeme - doing sums is bad for your health. Like when Folic only costs about £1,000 and then people start calculating the actual cost. Sums should be avoided at all costs.
Seriously though, it's quite scary when you do start to calculate the actual cost of running a car nowadays, whichever acquiring strategy is used.
You're probably right that there's not much in it. As I said, if you're not too fussy or just lucky, then you can pick up a good lease deal. The real benefits for me are that you know what it's going to cost and you don't have to worry about the selling process at the end.
Seriously though, it's quite scary when you do start to calculate the actual cost of running a car nowadays, whichever acquiring strategy is used.
You're probably right that there's not much in it. As I said, if you're not too fussy or just lucky, then you can pick up a good lease deal. The real benefits for me are that you know what it's going to cost and you don't have to worry about the selling process at the end.
Exige GT
- rossybee
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Re: What Car to Get #3
Just buy a car that doesn't depreciate
Ross
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1972 Alfaholics Giulia Super
2000 Elise S1 Sport 160
2004 Bentley Conti GT
Now browsing the tech pages
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1972 Alfaholics Giulia Super
2000 Elise S1 Sport 160
2004 Bentley Conti GT
Now browsing the tech pages
- douglasgdmw
- Posts: 2755
- Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:31 pm
- Location: Pentlands
Re: What Car to Get #3
Can't agree more.rossybee wrote:Just buy a car that doesn't depreciate
The Posche Spyder and Defender have done me well in that stakes Suspect by the summer this year I will be at least £10-15k up on the Spyder relatively speaking (minus inflation rate of course).
I know the RS4 will depreciate but makes the man maths when you can offset against appreciation of the other 2
George
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Alpine A110S
Mini JCW
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Land Rover Series 2a softop
Mini JCW
Land Rover Defender Puma 90
Land Rover Series 2a softop
Re: What Car to Get #3
A lot depends on how much time or energy you have for sums & research.
Time poor = you might get lucky.
Make the time = good deal most of the time.
Choice of method is good for us consumers.
Just like the Casino though, the car dealer never loses. Remember that
Time poor = you might get lucky.
Make the time = good deal most of the time.
Choice of method is good for us consumers.
Just like the Casino though, the car dealer never loses. Remember that
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- rossybee
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Re: What Car to Get #3
Nonsense. It's all about choosing a model which is on the way back up.campbell wrote: ↑Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:36 pmA lot depends on how much time or energy you have for sums & research.
Time poor = you might get lucky.
Make the time = good deal most of the time.
Choice of method is good for us consumers.
Just like the Casino though, the car dealer never loses. Remember that
Ross
---------
1972 Alfaholics Giulia Super
2000 Elise S1 Sport 160
2004 Bentley Conti GT
Now browsing the tech pages
---------
1972 Alfaholics Giulia Super
2000 Elise S1 Sport 160
2004 Bentley Conti GT
Now browsing the tech pages
Re: What Car to Get #3
Nonsense yourself, Ross. Or was that tongue in cheek?
By all means have an appreciating car or two in the garage, but that doesn't solve the problem of most households needing two practical mile-munchers as well. You still have a real-world car problem to solve, no matter how lucky you get with the collectables.
By all means have an appreciating car or two in the garage, but that doesn't solve the problem of most households needing two practical mile-munchers as well. You still have a real-world car problem to solve, no matter how lucky you get with the collectables.
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