Get yourself a cheap multimeter and check the resistances from the battery to the earthing points, the actual battery voltage and the condition of the battery to starter - use a jump lead for that.
Brunty
Help Please - No Ignition
OK, the alarm is probably buggered then. You've switched if off with the master key, right? Are you sure you switched it off as opposed to switching it on (I'm sure you have, but you never know!).
Does the fuel pump prime when you disarm the immobiliser?
You can force the starter to turn by connecting the spade terminal at the bottom of the starter to the big red terminal on the back of the starter. If it turns happily then you're problem is in the immobiliser circuit somewhere. If it's still sluggish then you're problem is either battery or earthing problems.
Cheers,
Robin
Does the fuel pump prime when you disarm the immobiliser?
You can force the starter to turn by connecting the spade terminal at the bottom of the starter to the big red terminal on the back of the starter. If it turns happily then you're problem is in the immobiliser circuit somewhere. If it's still sluggish then you're problem is either battery or earthing problems.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Pedro
No problem with the boot lid opening as long as you are going forwards.
However as I proved at KH a few years ago, backwards at 60 tuts will turn it into a high angle speed brake.
I had an untraceable earth fault on N1 some time back, so in the end we took an earth lead from the battery, through the gearshift shroud in the cockpit, and onto the engine. This cured it.
To check it out take a jump lead if it is long enough, or join two, then take it from the battery neg, over the car and onto an engine tab.
tut
No problem with the boot lid opening as long as you are going forwards.
However as I proved at KH a few years ago, backwards at 60 tuts will turn it into a high angle speed brake.
I had an untraceable earth fault on N1 some time back, so in the end we took an earth lead from the battery, through the gearshift shroud in the cockpit, and onto the engine. This cured it.
To check it out take a jump lead if it is long enough, or join two, then take it from the battery neg, over the car and onto an engine tab.
tut
Thanks for all the tips,
I got the car running
after running load of tests which was quite bizarre as they all turned out false. I tried a multimeter across the starter motor and there was a current, but still would not start, I tried jumping the starter motor, & even tried taking the spade connector across the Red Bolt on starter motor & got nothing. At this stage I was convinced it was the starter motor & decided to fix the engine lid. I removed the Spring bit & sure enough there is enough weight for the lid to sit down for the sensor. So I thought that I might as well try the alarm again since I could now have all sensors closed. I turned on the alarm, & it went off, I closed the pax door, & switched the alarm off with the fob, & waited, after about 30 seconds it beeped & the indicators flashed, I opened the door & it went off again, I pressed the key fob again, this time it stayed off, so I jumped in & tried the ignition...It Started First Turn 
What I think happened was the battery went flat, probably with the cold weather, the alarm sensed the drop of power & alarmed. When I turned off the alarm this imobilised the car. When I kept trying to reset it after swapping the battery, the sensor at the engine bay was setting it off again. So I switched it off & tried to bypass the imobiliser, which I was unable to do...This is strange No..? I thought you could jump the starter motor & bypass the imobiliser..?
From what I can gather I cannot start this car no mater what way I try without the alram functioning correctly, which is good security, but one real pain in the neck when you get a flat battery or sticky sensor.
Think I'll duck tape the lid if ever at KH...just in case
Cheers,
Pete
I got the car running


What I think happened was the battery went flat, probably with the cold weather, the alarm sensed the drop of power & alarmed. When I turned off the alarm this imobilised the car. When I kept trying to reset it after swapping the battery, the sensor at the engine bay was setting it off again. So I switched it off & tried to bypass the imobiliser, which I was unable to do...This is strange No..? I thought you could jump the starter motor & bypass the imobiliser..?
From what I can gather I cannot start this car no mater what way I try without the alram functioning correctly, which is good security, but one real pain in the neck when you get a flat battery or sticky sensor.
Think I'll duck tape the lid if ever at KH...just in case

Cheers,
Pete
'97 S1 Elise - Ongoing Project Spec
www.dynamic-it.co.uk
www.dynamic-it.co.uk
You can deffo make the starter turn by hotwiring at the back of the starter, irrespective of ignition switch, alarm, immob, ...
I suspect you have some immobiliser woes and they may in due course come back, but for now smile and enjoy the car while it works

Cheers,
Robin
I suspect you have some immobiliser woes and they may in due course come back, but for now smile and enjoy the car while it works


Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
- aberdeenelise
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:38 pm
- Location: Aberdeen / Sedco 704
offshorematt wrote:[
Just had a thought - my old S1 had the aluminium engine cover so it probably weighed a little more than the newer plastic one. Maybe on reflection duck tape wouldn't be a bad idea
Good thinking Matt, I've recently suffered a very similar problem, once I'm home from the rig I'll give it a whirl