Eliseparts braided hoses
- tuscan_thunder
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Eliseparts braided hoses
Bought a set of these - they seem not to fit?
One end seems to need a taper thread but neither end has this?
anyone able to help before I speak to Eliseparts and look foolish (ok, more foolish!)
One end seems to need a taper thread but neither end has this?
anyone able to help before I speak to Eliseparts and look foolish (ok, more foolish!)
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- BiggestNizzy
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I got a set of goodridge ones, they should have standard fittings each end none of the fittings should be tappered. The caliper and the fitting on the body are the same so the hoses can be fitted either way round.
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- BiggestNizzy
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- tuscan_thunder
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- Location: Aberdeenshire
The fitting seals at the end so the thread will stick out.
Biggest thing to rememebr is that the caliper needs to be screwed ontl the hose, not the hose into the caliper as the hose will coil up. the hose should not be under any torque and should just form a smooth curve. Its a PITA to do but the caliper has to come off so you can bleed the fronts properly anyway.
Other one to do is to connect the inboard end and then bleed fluid to the end of the hose then screw it into the caliper. That will reduce the amount of air in the system to begin with.
Biggest thing to rememebr is that the caliper needs to be screwed ontl the hose, not the hose into the caliper as the hose will coil up. the hose should not be under any torque and should just form a smooth curve. Its a PITA to do but the caliper has to come off so you can bleed the fronts properly anyway.
Other one to do is to connect the inboard end and then bleed fluid to the end of the hose then screw it into the caliper. That will reduce the amount of air in the system to begin with.
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- s333fee
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hi,
yes the treads are too long, you are suppossed to keep the lock nut on and then thighten it to stop any change of the hose becoming slackened, keep it on then tighten slightly more than finger tight with open ended spanner.
do them all at once then bleed it is just as easy as doing one at a time. remeber to remove you calipers to ge the hoses out the threads are very long, and put some grease everywhere when you rebuild the car except where the hoses go, and bleed nipples. you can use brake fuild here, it helps them go back together, if your brakes are tight just squeeze the calipers back a bit with your fingers to get them back on remember to undo your handbrake for the rears.
yes the treads are too long, you are suppossed to keep the lock nut on and then thighten it to stop any change of the hose becoming slackened, keep it on then tighten slightly more than finger tight with open ended spanner.
do them all at once then bleed it is just as easy as doing one at a time. remeber to remove you calipers to ge the hoses out the threads are very long, and put some grease everywhere when you rebuild the car except where the hoses go, and bleed nipples. you can use brake fuild here, it helps them go back together, if your brakes are tight just squeeze the calipers back a bit with your fingers to get them back on remember to undo your handbrake for the rears.
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Or screw the hose into the caliper first, then tighten up the B nut at the other endRICHARDHUMBLE wrote:The fitting seals at the end so the thread will stick out.
Biggest thing to rememebr is that the caliper needs to be screwed ontl the hose, not the hose into the caliper as the hose will coil up. the hose should not be under any torque and should just form a smooth curve. Its a PITA to do but the caliper has to come off so you can bleed the fronts properly anyway.
Other one to do is to connect the inboard end and then bleed fluid to the end of the hose then screw it into the caliper. That will reduce the amount of air in the system to begin with.