MIL Light

[Edin430]

Got my de-cat on the car however for some reason the MIL light eliminator is not working..

MIL light was off before and now its on... Ali and I think it may be faulty.

Anyway - putting the cat back on therefore will not need it but does anyone have a diagram for the wiring? Or can advise on how it re-wires back up? As all the wires were cut and changed to fit the Eliminator...

Also I believe someone on here was selling the MIL light eliminator? Might be easier to put a new one on?

Thanks

[robin]

Got my de-cat on the car however for some reason the MIL light eliminator is not working..

MIL light was off before and now its on... Ali and I think it may be faulty.

Anyway - putting the cat back on therefore will not need it but does anyone have a diagram for the wiring? Or can advise on how it re-wires back up? As all the wires were cut and changed to fit the Eliminator...

Also I believe someone on here was selling the MIL light eliminator? Might be easier to put a new one on?

Thanks

When rewiring the original O2 sensor, join like colours with like colours and you'll be fine. If you're struggling let me know what you've cut and what you've got left so I know where to start (don't know what wires you've cut at present).

Cheers,
Robin

[Edin430]

Thanks Robin.

Ali will be doing this on Wednesday night but neither of us have the original diagram.

Any probs i'll tell him to give you a shout

[robin]

The rear O2 sensor has four wires going to it.

Two are possibly heavier duty than the other two, as these carry the sensor pre-heater current; but the manual indicates that all four wires are the same thickness - could easily be wrong.

The heater current is carried by the brown&pink wire (positive) and the green&blue wire (negative). The signal is carried by the blue&yellow wire and the blue&red wire. Like I said above, you'll need to rejoin like colour with like colour and all will be well.

If it were me, I would use some good quality automotive butt crimps and a good crimping tool to avoid further issues down the line. The proper parts have a sealant in it that you can melt with a heat gun; once melted and set this makes a moisture tight seal that should last as long as the OEM connectors do. The cheaper ones will fail either due to corrosion (they are not air or water tight) or simply because the crimp is badly formed and breaks the wire or the wire escapes. However, the cheaper common yellow/blue/red butt crimps can be used, in which case you should put a length of heat shrink over them to extend about 25mm beyond the crimp at either end, then once you've tested the connection is OK, you can slide the heat shrink over the joint and heat it up to (mostly) seal the joint to limit corrosion.

I'll see Ali on Monday I think anyway, so if he doesn't have good crimps, I'll hand him my pack of the good quality crimps and the right tool - he can replenish the crimp pack in due course. They cost about 25 pence each, but it really is money well spent!

Cheers,
Robin

[Edin430]

Thanks Robin - much appreciated.

Car is being traded back to a dealer and they want to de-cat out and the MIL light switched off obviously so need to make sure its done perfect first time round

Can you mention to Ali Monday?