Low temp with remote thermostat

[kerryxeg]

I've had a remote thermostat fitted (ie it looked a bit too difficult for me), I've had the car out the last couple of days and I'm trying to understand what's going on with the very low temps. Its a QED thermostat, which as I understand it is fitted to the engine coolant outlet and will open at 75 or 82 deg (not sure which one is fitted) to allow flow to the rad. If closed flow will bypass to the heater or the radiator bypass.

I think the temp sensor you read on the dash is also at the outlet ....correct?

If I understand correctly if everything is fine it should still warm up to 75 as normal, then hold 75deg. I've found warm up to be really slow, and even on a 20 mile run the most I saw was 65 deg. Seems like the remote thermostat is staying open, ie flow to the rad at all times. Even standing still in the drive the max temp was 78 - 10deg air temp. When out in -2 engine temp was in the low 40s and could be adjusted by putting the heater on (but not much heat)

65 was nice and cool in the car, but should I be worried about it being too low? Any other theories?

Kerry

[Rich H]

Coolant temp sender is on the outlet.

Sounds like the stat is either open or is opening early. Also make sure its bled properly.

[robin]

Indeed, it does sound like the stat is open.

The engine won't appreciate being run at reduced operating temperature - it really wants to be hot.

Suggest you check that you actually have a thermostat!

When I fitted an eliseparts remote stat to my old S1 I had to remove some valve from the pipework that leads to the expansion tank - I don't actually know why and whether not removing it would have this effect, but it might be worth checking whether or not it's meant to be removed for the QED one.

Also, is your remote stat up under the wheel arch (i.e. near the radiator) or down by the oil filter where the pipe runs into the chassis?

Cheers,
Robin

[Rich H]

The valve I removed was in the top of the "spider" it was a ball valve and it was stuck anyway, the cage just levers out then you can remove the ball, dunno what it was for, but several SELC*K reliable regulars recommended it.

[kerryxeg]

Thanks chaps, no mention of removing a valve in the QED instructions but they are generic for a K series. Anyway, I'll have a look for such a beast and get a new thermostat installed.


Thanks Kerry

[kerryxeg]

While looking for the QED details to give them a call I found this http://forums.mg-rover.org/attachment.p ... 1144080237, which basically discusses the same problem but concludes an airlock. I've read the advice on the other thread ref bleeding and will start with that.

The unit is located down the back of the engine so there are a couple of pipe bends. It's also going to be impossible to get at, ie needs to be disconnected top and bottom to remove. An airlock would be a good result vs trying to access the unit.

Kerry

[Rich H]

DO you know how its plumbed in? Could you take a piccy? One of the problems with the PPRRT fit on my car is that it is fitted upside down compared with the landrover install so the jiggle valve does not work very well. It was a right pig to bleed. I would start with parlking on a slope so the N/S front corner is the highest point and then bleed the rad. but its going to take a fair few cycles of bleed/drive/bleed/drive.

[kerryxeg]

Looking at the QED instructions and going by the comments on the rover site, I think it is fitted correctly. I'm not going to have time to look at it until Tuesday night so I'll work through a few bleeding cycles and see how that goes. The instructions on the other thread have given me a pretty good idea of the technique and I've got a pressure bleeder so fingers crossed.
So it can just stay parked for now.
Kerry