Front calipers on the back

[mckeann]

Ali's post reminded me something. The brakes on the car are balanced when tyres and pads are the same age/condtion. So fitting new front tyres and new rear pads would shift the brake balance rearwards enough that you would start snatching rear wheels on downshifts. I experienced that at Donington.

Foz, i agree that the rear pads would need replacing soon, but in my experience, the grumbling you are hearing is just a side effect of running pagid RS14's on those discs. The discs last a full seasons racing in my experience,

[foz01]

How old are the discs and pads (fronts) out of interest - discs look cream crackered with hairline cracks from the holes - i would need to get measurements from new to find out how worn they are obvioulsy, and when you say grumbly, how grumbly lol, cos these sound REALLY grumbly- to the extent it's unnerving but then i dont know if its a case of TADTS- i have always used Mintex int he past which had no grumblyness- thats the only refernce point i have..

Also neil- any merit in using RS42's as opposed to 14's on the back due to them doing much less work and therefore taking even longer to get to optimum operating temp?

[mckeann]

How old are the discs and pads (fronts) out of interest - discs look cream crackered with hairline cracks from the holes - i would need to get measurements from new to find out how worn they are obvioulsy, and when you say grumbly, how grumbly lol, cos these sound REALLY grumbly- to the extent it's unnerving but then i dont know if its a case of TADTS- i have always used Mintex int he past which had no grumblyness- thats the only refernce point i have..

Also neil- any merit in using RS42's as opposed to 14's on the back due to them doing much less work and therefore taking even longer to get to optimum operating temp?

I personally wouldn't use different pads front to back (on purpose, OK in emergency)

I cant remember how old the discs and pads are. I was given a free set of discs to try out at Spa, so depending on whats on it, they are either 1 year old, or 4 months old. Cant remember what discs i ended up running in the end. Pads, i have no idea, as i was changing them all the time. I suspect Spa for the fronts, and donny for the rears.


Personally, i would fit AP discs front and rear, and a set of Pagids (whatever flavour you fancy) I would stick with standard calipers all round, but if your worried about them, get them rebuilt or replaced.

[foz01]

I was going to replace the front discs and stick them on the back with the EP bells and go for AP bells and discs on the front- although i have drawings for bells all round so can easily get them fabricated up...

4 pots is a nice to have but not a neccesity as you say..

[steve_weegie]

AP fronts + EP bells on the back will be a great combo, especially if you tweak the rear bias to compensate for the increased braking torque you'll get with the bigger discs As a blatant sales plug, you may wish to drop stu160 a PM as he can make top quality elise bells for the AP discs

I also know for a fact that once the rs14 pad is worn past 3/4, its performance goes off and becomes a bit noisy. If you're swapping pads and wish to stick with Pagid, there's an rs15 compound available now thats got a higher coefficient of friction and is stable to a higher temp than the rs14. Might be worth a look....

Also might be worthwhile experimenting with temperature reactive paint on the discs to see just how hot you're getting them. AP do a 3 paint kit that you put on the outside of the rotor. Once the paint gets to a certain temperature, it permanently changes colour.

HTH

Steve

[foz01]

AP fronts + EP bells on the back will be a great combo, especially if you tweak the rear bias to compensate for the increased braking torque you'll get with the bigger discs As a blatant sales plug, you may wish to drop stu160 a PM as he can make top quality elise bells for the AP discs

I also know for a fact that once the rs14 pad is worn past 3/4, its performance goes off and becomes a bit noisy. If you're swapping pads and wish to stick with Pagid, there's an rs15 compound available now thats got a higher coefficient of friction and is stable to a higher temp than the rs14. Might be worth a look....

Also might be worthwhile experimenting with temperature reactive paint on the discs to see just how hot you're getting them. AP do a 3 paint kit that you put on the outside of the rotor. Once the paint gets to a certain temperature, it permanently changes colour.

HTH

Steve

How much does Stu charge?

You taking the michael about the increased torque ?

Anyone know what the new pad depth of the pagids is?

also the rs15, that a higher coefficient at cold or higher temps, always feel that the 14's whilst superb when hot when cold are a bit

[steve_weegie]

AP fronts + EP bells on the back will be a great combo, especially if you tweak the rear bias to compensate for the increased braking torque you'll get with the bigger discs As a blatant sales plug, you may wish to drop stu160 a PM as he can make top quality elise bells for the AP discs

I also know for a fact that once the rs14 pad is worn past 3/4, its performance goes off and becomes a bit noisy. If you're swapping pads and wish to stick with Pagid, there's an rs15 compound available now thats got a higher coefficient of friction and is stable to a higher temp than the rs14. Might be worth a look....

Also might be worthwhile experimenting with temperature reactive paint on the discs to see just how hot you're getting them. AP do a 3 paint kit that you put on the outside of the rotor. Once the paint gets to a certain temperature, it permanently changes colour.

HTH

Steve

How much does Stu charge?

You taking the michael about the increased torque ?

Anyone know what the new pad depth of the pagids is?

also the rs15, that a higher coefficient at cold or higher temps, always feel that the 14's whilst superb when hot when cold are a bit

Cant remebmer how much stu charges, best to ask him

Not taking the mickey about the torque either, I promise! If torque is measured in newton meters, that means if you attach a bar of 1meter to a point and apply a force of 1 newton to the end of it, it excerts 1 newton meter of torque on on the fixed point. 10Nm of torque could equal a force of 10newtons on a 1m bar or 1 newton on a 10m bar. If you put bigger discs on the car and move the caliper out to accommodate, you end up with more torque applied to the hub! I promise......

RS15 is higher friction coefficient at both low and high temps - info here

http://www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk/produ ... ounds.html

I'd guess that a new pagid pad had a bit less than an inch on it when new... Couldnt say for definate as ive never measured them