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Scottd
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by Scottd » Wed May 03, 2006 12:49 pm
A few folk recommend fitting these when going to S2 suspension w the 110/120 ride height so thought I'd give it a go....
OK so I unscrew the bolts accesable from the footwell.. and put the rack raiser where the 'Height setting plate' goes. What about the pop rivet?
Don't mine look upside down compared w the diagram??
Anything else to watch for? I'm not too sure I understand how adding the raisers there actually raises anything, but hey
Scott
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DDtB
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by DDtB » Wed May 03, 2006 1:02 pm
Beam me up Scotty... wrote:
Don't mine look upside down compared w the diagram??
Scott
Try turning the camera the other way up.... that should sort it!

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Scottd
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by Scottd » Wed May 03, 2006 1:23 pm
tedbakerman wrote:Beam me up Scotty... wrote:
Don't mine look upside down compared w the diagram??
Scott
Try turning the camera the other way up.... that should sort it!


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Shug
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by Shug » Wed May 03, 2006 1:31 pm
Pop rivet - drill out and forget. The new plates don't need it - I guess it's just there to aid first assembly.
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
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Scottd
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by Scottd » Wed May 03, 2006 2:41 pm
See that Dave, it's called constructive advice
scott
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DDtB
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by DDtB » Wed May 03, 2006 4:02 pm
Scotty says.... I just cannae dae it captain .... I doooont have the powerrrrrrrrr! wrote:See that Dave, it's called constructive advice
scott
Hey... my solution would've worked tooo....

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robin
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by robin » Wed May 03, 2006 4:20 pm
Shug wrote:Pop rivet - drill out and forget. The new plates don't need it - I guess it's just there to aid first assembly.
I have never fitted these, but to me it looks as though the holes in the chassis are slotted to allow the rack to move up/down. The point of the rivet could be to stop the plate shifting about during assembly - what other reference point is there to actually set the correct height of the rack?
Cheers,
Robin
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Shug
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by Shug » Wed May 03, 2006 4:31 pm
robin wrote:Shug wrote:Pop rivet - drill out and forget. The new plates don't need it - I guess it's just there to aid first assembly.
I have never fitted these, but to me it looks as though the holes in the chassis are slotted to allow the rack to move up/down. The point of the rivet could be to stop the plate shifting about during assembly - what other reference point is there to actually set the correct height of the rack?
Cheers,
Robin
Arse. You're absolutely right... I was sure somebody told me to drill out and forget when I was thinking about it, but a quick search confirms you'll need to rivet the new ones on in the old rivet hole....

2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
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Scottd
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by Scottd » Wed May 03, 2006 6:17 pm
Is the whole job done frm inside the footwell? Doesn't the rack drop down at the back once you unscrew the bolts?
scott
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Scottd
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by Scottd » Thu May 04, 2006 8:17 pm
Did it earlier, wasn't too hard to do, had to file down a socket to get it to fit tho.
Certainly feels very different!
scott
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simon
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by simon » Thu May 04, 2006 8:53 pm
How does it feel different?
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Scottd
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by Scottd » Thu May 04, 2006 10:34 pm
Well I just went round the block to see if it (and my hour in the Loti position) had made any difference. The steering is back to tugging slightly at low speed breaking with sharp cambers. But it's at faster speeds that's impostant I guess, so we'll see. To get a true comparison really I would of had to of gotten the Geo done with the old rack setting. It felt good but wrong then, and even more so now, if you know what I mean
scott