Post
by robin » Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:07 pm
BP = Barometric Pressure - engine fills relative to atmospheric pressure, but as your's is pressurised and the difference is minor, you can safely ignore this.
RH = Relative Humidity - it was wetter on the second run! Extra water in the air is a mixed blessing as it helps keep the charge cool, though obviously the water vapour takes up space that could be occupied by Oxygen. However, I doubt it makes much difference.
AT = Air Temperature - higher temperatures thin the charge, but remember that the effect is relative to absolute 0 (-273) so you're comparing 291 vs 293, so near as damn it the same.
IT = I would have thought inlet temperature, but I cannot believe 88 vs 17, so not sure what to make of that - perhaps they wired something up last time that they didn't wire up this time? Certainly 88 would be bad and 17 would be good, so that wouldn't explain the difference.
RR/TN I would guess these are to do with the RPM-to-Roadspeed configuration for the car. Anyway, they're the same so shouldn't matter.
Rich: the torque curve will scale exactly the same way that the power curve has = RPM is the same on both curves; Power = Torque * RPM/5250 - you could draw it in if you like.
So the comparison between torque curves will yield just exactly the same thing as comparing the power curves.
The fact that the exhaust gas is now leaner than it was implies that the engine is flowing more air and the ECU hasn't compensated for it, rather than say differences in rolling road measurements (which would result in the same AFR in both cases).
The fact that the power has dropped could simply be down to the fact that the mapping is now out. It's lean, so not enough fuel = faster burn = ignition too advanced; you reach peak pressure in the cylinder before the magic ~10-20 degrees ATDC and thus generate less torque (==less power).
I assume the cam changeover is at 4,750-ish, hence the spike in AFR?
Either put the old exhaust back on or get it remapped - there's a guy who's name is something like CharlieX IIRC on the US forums that can remap the later T4 ECUs like yours ... not saying it's cheap but better than hacking up the looms, no?
Alternately you could increase the fuelling a tad by fitting a secondary pressure regulator - this would possibly return the AFR to something saner (13 or less is ideal at full throttle/high RPM) - it would also slow down the burn and hopefully result in better power generation by retiming peak pressure to the correct point. But I don't know what these T4 ECUs do when you start messing with the engines ... people say that the ECU fights any attempt to make the engine produce more power ... maybe only on the normal cars, not the cups ... or maybe just internet folklore anyway?
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut