The place to "speak geek"
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james
- Posts: 471
- Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 8:10 pm
- Location: Scotland
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by james » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:11 pm
I picked up my Muts nuts discs on Friday complete with EBC pads and braided hoses from Stuart. Thanks Stuart.
I'm going to replace the rusty originals soon. Questions are:
1. I've bled brakes before, is the Elise S2 any harder to do than normal and do I need to easybleed or just the wife to pump the pedal?
2. Is it worth replacing the caliper seals with the refurb kits that you can get or is that overkill? (the car has been standing unused for the last year

and is now 7 years old

) Calipers are going to get the painted treatment at the same time but the price of caliper refurb kits isnt the kind of thing you just get "just in case."
Looking forward to driving it again.

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tenkfeet
- Posts: 2338
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- Location: Glasgow
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by tenkfeet » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:30 pm
1. The only thing to be aware of is if you get air in you will have to rotate the front calipers to get the air out . I find using a pressure bleeder makes life much easier , I just use it as a pressure source not fluid . Here is the seloc tech wiki
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bleed_the_brakes
Would also give your nipples a good soaking with WD40 the night before .

No lotus
Exige Sport 350 (Sold)
Elise Cup 250 (Air con and radio tubby spec) (Sold)
Evora S (sold)
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Rich H
- Posts: 9314
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- Location: Preston
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by Rich H » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:38 pm
What he said, especially the nipple & pipe fitting soaking!
By pushing the pedal you can sometimes snag the seals on any crud in the end of the MC an easybleed makes life much easier.
However - top easybleed tip - plumb it all together with no fluid in the easibleed bottle and then pressurise it all, if it hisses then fix the leak. After the system is air tight you can then depressureise and fill the e-b bottle. If you don't do this and you have a leak, instead of an air leak you have a 20psi brake fluid leak... also tap the calipers during bleed to liberate any bubbles especialy if it goes wrong and you get a load of air in.
to change the hoses cap the system and get everything you need to hand including loads of rags. Disconnect the inner brake line fitting and reconnect your new one. if you can find something to bung the end of it do so. undo the caliper fitting and mop up a bit. Let fluid run to the end of the new pipe before connecting to the caliper and you will have very little if any air in the system. However you do need to remove and rotate the front calipers as there is nowhere for the air in the inner piston to go. and no matter how careful you were in the prev step you might get some air in, it's a god idea anyway as you won't know if there is any air in to begin with.
go easy on the pipe fittings adn nipples, they are pretty soft and can shear off if you are too heavy handed.
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
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james
- Posts: 471
- Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 8:10 pm
- Location: Scotland
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by james » Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:22 pm
thanks guys, I'll look at the pressurised easybleed.