Boot release cable changeout

offshorematt · Post by **offshorematt** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:15 pm

Finally after 6 months without a lockable boot, I finally came to fit the new cable there on saturday. However I've now postponed the job until someone can tell me more. The Elise Service Notes are useless - 'access can be obtained via removal of the arch liner'. Basically when I peel back the liner, I can see the cable running into a sort of hollow fibreglass box section through a ~6mm hole, before I guess terminating at the back of the T-handle inside the door frame. Obviously there is a nut behind the T-handle holding the old one in place, but how can you get anything onto it through a 6mm hole.
My immediate thought was to enlarge the hole...

Has anyone done this and if so how!! Advice would be appreciated...

Cheers

Post by **Shug** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:20 pm

I've actually not done this one myself (surprisingly) so can't help....

Stephen · Post by **Stephen** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:47 pm

Tape a bit of cord or cable to the old one and pull it through then use this to pull the new one in.
I'm assuming that you are replacing both inner and outer.

Scottd · Post by **Scottd** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:37 pm

You know you to pull off the speaker panel tho yea? Held on w just velcro an one screw I think.

I found it tricky stopping the bolt at the other side of the handle (inside the body) from sliding down the cable at the back. I used a stiff bit of wire with a loop round the cable, and pushed it thro from the wheel arch side (if that makes sense?).

When tightening up the cable at the boot release catch, you might want to adjust it so there's tension on the cable. It works much better that way.

Some white grease sprayed down the cable should help it's life span too!

scott

Tom · Post by **Tom** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:54 pm

Scottd wrote:You know you to pull off the speaker panel tho yea? Held on w just velcro an one screw I think.

I found it tricky stopping the bolt at the other side of the handle (inside the body) from sliding down the cable at the back. I used a stiff bit of wire with a loop round the cable, and pushed it thro from the wheel arch side (if that makes sense?).

When tightening up the cable at the boot release catch, you might want to adjust it so there's tension on the cable. It works much better that way.

Some white grease sprayed down the cable should help it's life span too!

scott

what is this white grease stuff? i think something a bit thicker than WD40 would be good as a preemptive measure.

Stephen · Post by **Stephen** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 5:38 pm

You should actually use a cabe oiler which is connected to the end of the cable and pumps oil or grease allong the length of the cable.
If anyone has one they could let the boys know in the specialist tools section

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:26 pm

Frosts car restoration for a hydraulic oiler
(Got a website but with 33.6 dialup, you can google it yourselves!)

Only a few ££ and loads of other useful stuff too

HTH
Rich

Scottd · Post by **Scottd** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:58 am

Tom wrote:what is this white grease stuff? i think something a bit thicker than WD40 would be good as a preemptive measure.

erm I think it's for motor bike chains or summin, but it's stuff that doesn't react with plastics or metals and is a proper lubricant (unlike WD40 which is a cleaner, so I'm told), and like you say, it's much more substantial than WD40. Sprays on as a liquid then goes goey.

Stephen wrote:You should actually use a cabe oiler which is connected to the end of the cable and pumps oil or grease allong the length of the cable.
If anyone has one they could let the boys know in the specialist tools section

I spent ages trying to find one of these on the web but never could, clearly my Googling skillz pale in compassion w Rich's

scott

robin · Post by **robin** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:57 am

When you buy a tin of 3-in-1 oil, it comes with a nozzle - I think you can just remove the cable from the outer, pour an entire tin of 3-in-1 down the core of the outer, then re-insert cable. I might also be inclined to pack the ends with a really heavy grease that will prevent water ingress.

Cheers,
Robin

Stephen · Post by **Stephen** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:18 am

Excellent budget option Robin.

Oiler details here http://www.britcycle.com/Products/221/221210.htm
Google "Cable oiler" with the quotes.

I found this quote on the web too
"In all the years that I have messed with bikes, the simple act of duct taping a cone of plastic to the end of a cable, filling the cone, and working the cable has always worked like a charm. A cable oiler does exactly the same, but more expensively."

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 10:28 am

White grease is lithium based and quite thick when the solvent drys, it is waterproof and filled with PTFE (Teflon) that creates a semi-permanent coating on the cable. It is much better than WD40 for parts that will continuously move (Door hinges, throttle levers and cables) as it doesn't evaporate and leave a sticky mess. it doesn't have the penatrative or water dispersal (WD=Water Dispersal...) properties of WD-40 though.

Halfrauds sell it, get the spray stuff and bang a load of that down it. I have used it to salvage my boot release cable, but it is only a matter of time before that goes for good.

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 11:58 am

I did it on my car last year & I stay in Cults if you want a hand.

My car has the boot box. I don't no if non boot box cars a different or what.

Am offshore till middle of next week tho.

You can get at the back of the T handle end by just sliding the seat fwd & removing the Drivers side speaker.

I tied a bit of whammy to the boot end and used it to pull through the new cable so didn't need to muck about with the wheel arch liner. Used engine oil to lube it up & a bunch of GP grease at the Tee handle end to stop water ingress and all the oil pissing out all over the sill.

offshorematt · Post by **offshorematt** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:25 pm

Baggy wrote: You can get at the back of the T handle end by just sliding the seat fwd & removing the Drivers side speaker.

Magic. Now why can't the service notes just say that!

Baggy - Might just take you up on that offer once I'm back from holiday. My workshop (AKA parent's garage) is in Culter so its right on your doorstep.

Cheers folks

Matt