Ultimate K series

[roadboy]

This is all subject to getting the damned thing dyno'd which I still haven't done,

Did you not get it mapped on the Dyno Mike? Don't think I'd be using a generic map on such a high level build.

I think Steve Butts has a 6 speed box for sale which will be less than 5 grand if you did want to look at changing the ratios.

HTH

Dan

[Gourlay83]

This is all subject to getting the damned thing dyno'd which I still haven't done,

Did you not get it mapped on the Dyno Mike? Don't think I'd be using a generic map on such a high level build.

I think Steve Butts has a 6 speed box for sale which will be less than 5 grand if you did want to look at changing the ratios.

HTH

Dan

After the engine failed on the Dyno last time I believe he wanted to run the engine in/put it through a few heat cycles before it went on the dyno.

Cheers
Alan

[Mikie711]

This is all subject to getting the damned thing dyno'd which I still haven't done,

Did you not get it mapped on the Dyno Mike? Don't think I'd be using a generic map on such a high level build.

I think Steve Butts has a 6 speed box for sale which will be less than 5 grand if you did want to look at changing the ratios.

HTH

Dan

It was mapped on a dyno but only up to 7500rpm, that was when the bottom end went the second time. So once the engine was rebuilt I used the map we already had and knocked the Emerald into adaptive mapping mode to trim the fuel map while putting on the 1000miles while running it in, and kinda left it like that never bothered to get it finished off. So I was/am going to get it on a RR to see what it's putting out before I tear it down over winter and check out the bearings etc and switch to a Steve Smith bottom end. We tried to do power runs on Ricky's old sun road but couldn't maintain any grip above 190bhp (217 at the flywheel) and still had a 1000rpm to go therefore I am going to take it to Wallace's and see what it does on their Dastek road. Their rollers have a grippy coating on them so should be better.

[roadboy]

Ah, I see.

Did you map each site all the way up to 7500 rpm? I tend to find it easier to do to about 5k and then data log power runs for different loads sites to map the higher rpms. Its a lot kinder on the engine.

Dan

[hiscot]

Mike just thinking but as your getting high oil temps with a front air cooler is the thermostat working as it should , right flow ect ? or as your also getting low pressure are the sensors calibrated right for what ever is reading them , what oil pressure do you show when hot ?
regarding gears i do see what you mean it can be quite expensive to change i would maybe use it for a year and see where you wanting changes they can be too close as well but as you increase the rpm a c/r box becomes wider and a track box can have a long 1st gear in order to keep the rest close for peak power / torque but a sprint box may require a very low / close 1-2 ect horses for courses but i think getting the gearing right and that will always be a compamise with a pg1 will give a huge advantage
regarding steve b 6 speeder i dont know what ratios his for sale one is but i can give you what he was running with if you want
"Not sure if that makes sense, but I suspect that GB uses the 6 speed as the exige doesn't rev nearly as much and makes all it's power lower in the rev range."
problem with the geotech supercharger is its a mechanical turbo and quite dated ok for a fixed rpm aircraft even better for a motor bike as its boost rises with its revs its just a big fan more speed = more air there fore by getting a six speeder you can keep it higher up in its rpm band to give max boost it also allows better options / flexability for differant tracks however the tt makes max boost around 7 k but you can still rev to 8 k if required to hang onto a gear
it also make a lot more torque because of its supercharger

[BiggestNizzy]

Regarding gears fit a CVT

[ABZ-Elise]

If you need a new block let me know , I've got one sitting in my shed thats not getting used.

Kev.

[Mikie711]

So, had a meeting with my finance director (wife) today and the budget has been approved for the new bottom end . Crank will be sent away in the next couple of days, 4 week lead time, flywheel and starter, clutch and hopefully, if I can get the info I need out of Omega, pistons as well. Need to speak to Steve at VB to find out exactly what he needs down for balancing the whole deal as well as he is 3 times the price of Agra I also want to know what they do that's so special (expensive).
Still not sure which liners to use, whether to go with banded or not.
Oh and made up an excel spread sheet for working out bearing sizes. Why? well if you have ever rebuilt a K you'll know how confusing all the different bearing grades can be and how easy it is to get yourself tied in knots. This led to an interesting discovery that meant that I ended up with the wrong bearings in one of my engines. Using steel rods means you don't have a rod grade for picking big end bearings. I was told to use the intermediate grade, which I took to mean intermediate bearings i.e. blue ones. However if you take the intermediate rod grade which is 6, then the bearings change to blue's and yellows, the yellows being slightly thinner, which would explain why the big end went. You live and learn. The spreadsheet complete with colour codes so it should be idiot proof. Picture of it below.



In the end have decided to go with a new block, cheers Kev, and have sourced a new Farndon rod which will make my set back up.

[Mikie711]

This should really close off the winter rebuild thread but don't want to resurrect that saga....................
So, took the car down to Wallace performance in Aberdeen the other day to finally get a run on a dyno. These are the results.........



fair bit of head scratching went on once I got the car home as this is a lot less than the engine spec suggests it should be producing. After talking it over with a couple of people the first thing to check was the cam timing, this showed that the cams were set fairly retarded and would account for the woeful torque curve as 1444 are real sensitive to timing. They had about 0.15mm less lift at TDC than they should have but this wasn't consistent between inlet and exhaust. They have now been reset. Next on the agenda will be fuel pressure because as you can see from the injector duration they are at 90% at full throttle, ideally they shouldn't be any more than 80-85% so will bump the fuel pressure up to 3.5bar ans see what that does.
Once I get some suspension back on the car I will take it back to Wallaces and see what difference the changes have made.

On the engine front, because I have now got hold of an MS-2 head (sound familiar Bob) I am going to build another complete engine based on the afore mentioned spec and run this one till it goes bang. So Rog hope your not to busy!!!!. Probably get this one done with larger seats to take the 33.5mm inlets, lot more work but as I don't have any valves etc for this head cost wise it would be about the same.

Edit: You can't see it on the chart but the figures read 196.8bhp at 8327rpm, 136.3lbft at 7,167rpm, 171.2bhp at the wheels same rpm.

[hiscot]

hi mike quite a difference from ricky's ? cam timing can have a huge effect ,but i dont understand the injectors maxing out are you sure you have 3 bar in the injector rail , faulty valve ? or if adjustable, gauge faulty reading ect ? maybe a mapping issue , you should be able to get well over 200 on them at 3 bar
when i had a nice brand new ms2 head i was going to fit 33.5/28.5 but that was for a 1.9 or 2.0 k, but on a 1.8 i think i would stick with std ms2 sizes but better valves than stock and well ported
however from scratch and in your shoes i think i would go 1.9 ( have a chat with rog ) and the big valves to suit