S1 alarm

[SteveJB]

I think the issue with the car cutting out & not restarting might be related to the alarm module. How do i completely remove the alarm module from the car and rewire it without it?

Any words of wisdom will be greatly received.

Thanks

Steven

[robin]

There are several independent functions of the alarm system.

There are three functions that simply interrupt fuel and cranking circuits; these can be bypassed with new wires.

There is one function that involves the alarm/immobiliser sending a specific code to your ECU whenever it is not immobilised (i.e. after you've pressed the fob to disarm the alarm/immob).

This latter function is not possible to bypass without modifying/reprogramming the ECU or adding in a wee box that presents the ECU with the appropriate code all the time (so the ECU thinks it always mobilised).

So if you don't think you have a problem with the code system (and if the engine runs for more than 30 seconds when started, then you don't) I would be inclined to bypass only the first three.

If the engine always cranks but doesn't start, that brings you down to just one function - the fuel pump immobiliser relay - it is common for the wiring to burn out at the immobiliser relay due to contact resistance generating heat.

Tell us more about the symptoms (and year of registration) and I'll try to point you at the right wires.

Cheers,
Robin

[tut]

Robin, when I had a similar problem I remember Craig bridging the two contacts in a small unit in the engine bay, which disabled all immobilisation, and she just started off the key.

tut

[thesurfbus]

One of these http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show ... er-bypass/

[robin]

That bypasses the fuel pump immobilisation and one of two crank immobilisation circuits.

If you are running a standard unmolested MEMS1.9 then it does not bypass the code lock.

So:
* if the problem is the fuel pump circuit, then this will "fix" it.
* if the problem is the crank circuit, this might "fix" it.
* if the problem is the ECU code lock, this won't "fit" it.

Also, if the problem is that the wiring is burnt out at the connector that this plugs into, then this will not fix it, because the burnt out wiring will still be there.

Cheers,
Robin

[Shug]

It's my old car, therefore on an Emerald - the immobilisation part of this has always been off. It has the bypass in place.

Steve - assuming you've got my PM following yours and you've tried all the stuff in that? The car, as you bought it, does have the alarm completely bypassed.

[SteveJB]

Shug-thanks for the PM. Will be working on the ideas from tomorrow.

Thanks for all the information. Plan is to tidy up all the electrics and tick off all the options so hopefully will get it sorted soon.

Cheers

Steven