S2 DTHTBs

robin · Post by **robin** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:50 pm

As some of you know I have been trying to fit some DTHTBs as part of project EGOR.

I am having some problems getting it set up - below is a link to a photo that shows what my problems are - any bright ideas for getting it to work - Lawrence suggested I reduce the length of the cable outer by pulling it out of the cable end and cutting some of it off - I think this makes sense, but I don't think I should have to do that because I didn't think there was any difference between the S1 and S2 cables, and PTP (who supplied the kit) say that it should work on both cars.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l193/ ... 1165686523

Cheers,
Robin

mac · Post by **mac** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:02 pm

Robin,

Could you play around with the cable routing? As you know the standard route comes under and the to the driver's side, past the side of the plenium and on towards the single TB at the gearbox end.

I would have though that by move the acutation point of the throttle towards the center of the car you would have had excess cable not a shortage.

Could it be fouling somewhere?

Mac

Lawrence · Post by **Lawrence** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:40 pm

Oh Aye

check the outer at the pedal to make sure it's located properly

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:48 pm

Is it possible to move the bracket that holds the engine end of the cable around relative to the spindle or the quadrant around the spindle? Either would give a different cable datum point IYKWIM.

Ditch the spring on the idle stop and fit a nut if you can to lock it off. This will give you a little more fine adjust on the end stop.

How does the IACV function with DTHTBs? I take it that it has a separate feed beyond the butterflys? If so why can't you close the b-flys completely?

Is everything heathy at the pedal end? mine (Allbe it 8 year old) linkage was sloppy as a sloppy thing full of slop. Crap design but I assume that it has been uprated. If not then geary's upgrade is pretty damn good, or you could go for the direct cable to pedal of the exige IIRC (could be totally wrong about that though)

Good luck!

Rich

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:51 pm

Could the mystery nut be for a different kind of cable? I take it the "Spindle drive" is the end of cable lump?

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 8:43 pm

Uprated throttle lever for S1

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:26 pm

Lawrence wrote:Oh Aye

check the outer at the pedal to make sure it's located properly

Have had a feel and it seems OK, but will get in there with a mirror later to make sure it's located properly.

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:27 pm

mac wrote:Robin,

Could you play around with the cable routing? As you know the standard route comes under and the to the driver's side, past the side of the plenium and on towards the single TB at the gearbox end.

I would have though that by move the acutation point of the throttle towards the center of the car you would have had excess cable not a shortage.

Could it be fouling somewhere?

Mac

I don't think it makes any difference which way the cable routes (other than a bit of friction. The distance between the end of the inner and the end of the outer is what it is, irrespective of routing, if you see what I mean.

Cheers,
Robin

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:12 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Is it possible to move the bracket that holds the engine end of the cable around relative to the spindle or the quadrant around the spindle? Either would give a different cable datum point IYKWIM.

I don't think so, though I am waiting for PTP to get back to me on that.

Ditch the spring on the idle stop and fit a nut if you can to lock it off. This will give you a little more fine adjust on the end stop.
Good idea - I can do that I think.

How does the IACV function with DTHTBs? I take it that it has a separate feed beyond the butterflys? If so why can't you close the b-flys completely?
You want the throttle to close onto the stop - if you allow the b/flys to close completely then they can stick in the barrels.

Is everything heathy at the pedal end?

I need to check that still - been doing domestic things so far today

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:28 pm

Could you not adjust the stop (Without spring

) to close the b-flys more? Not fully closed but more than now?

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 7:29 pm

throttle bods have a longer inner cable (exige) and is a differant pt number than std
I was quoted £47 inc post
however if your carefull the adjuster will pull/twist down then use a dremmel and carefully cut the outer steel cable and grind through so the excess falls off push the adjuster back jobs done
just dont nick the inner but if you do replace with exige cable

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 8:01 pm

Ihad the same problem when fitting the vhpd and hiscot said the exige inner cable is longer. From your picture robin the throttle bodies look the same as those on my vhpd (titans I think). I can post pics if you like.

robin · Post by **robin** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:30 am

Thanks chaps. This matches what Lawrence suggested too - only issue I have is that kit wasn't cheap and is meant to be a direct fit

Will wait for PTP to have their say before I get the WMD out on the cable.

BTW, checked the pedal end and all is well. I spotted that I should be able to get quite a bit more pedal and thus cable travel by adjusting the pedal stop which is close to it's maximum height at present.

Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:08 am

Good stuff, keep us posted!