PRRT fit (Finally!) UPDATED!

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 2:20 pm

Just called Ricky Gauld. (He changed my thermostat for me a 18 months ago when he was dong the belts)

I asked him if he had any handy hints & he said no it's just a bugger of a job

Will just give it a go & see what happens

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:48 pm

I didn't even try.... I don't know how you would get to the upper rear bolt on the thermostat housing or the other 2 that hole the pipe braketry to the block.

The coolant is routed throgh the inlet manifold (There is a pipe on the rhs) but it is also blocked off by it at the other end. The last 2 times I changed my inlet manifold (Don't ask) I was lucky and the valves on number 1 were shut and caught all the excess water, if they hadn't it would have been dry cranking to clear it. PITA. Drain the coolant first!!

HTH
Rich

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:18 pm

Oh FF Sakes.......

Will drain coolant first anyway.

Ta again

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:36 pm

Going to be a fun weekend for you!

Check list before starting:

Plasters
A&E open
Driver (to take you to A&E)
Gaskets for thermostat X3
Gasket for inlet manifold X2
Jubliee clips, assorted
Stanley knife blades (Those hoses are tough!)
More plasters
Coolant (either MEG (Green/Blue) Or OAT (Yellow/orange) they don't mix well)
Radweld (For when you give up!)
PTFE tape for the bleed screws
Thread lock
Imperial sockets (for rusted nuts, 1/2" for rusted 13mm etc)
Adjustable spanner
Drill+bits+charger+charged battery
Stilsons/Mole grips
M10 nuts & washers (for putting the manifold back on, you will loose some!)
Spare rawl nuts for liners
Hymolar Blue (for sealing TB to mainfold and any of the gaskets you have forgotton)
Hammer (Big with a short handle, no specific reason, it's just always useful!)
New and inventive swearwords
Small dog to come and annoy you/piss on things (Not always required, but often suppled free when I go home)
Someone to bring you cups of tea and cook while your "playing" again
Bit of old carpet for lying on
Bucket
Rags
White/cream carpet to tramp filth onto

That is most of the important things covered. You may need some boring things like spanners and sockets, but you'll work it all out!

HTH
Rich

mac · Post by **mac** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:45 pm

Isn't 1/2" smaller than 13mm?

12.7mm

Mac

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:47 pm

mac wrote:Isn't 1/2" smaller than 13mm?
12.7mm
Mac

Erm, that's the idea... Apply with hammer, hey presto....

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:53 pm

Shudder....

mac · Post by **mac** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:59 pm

Ah - so you remove the flakey rust first using a 13mm ring spanner and then you bounce your knuckles for the engine block and start rounding it then you go for the 1/2"

Got it

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 5:04 pm

Thats the one!

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 5:11 pm

Just found this thoguht it might be useful its the layout I'm using. the rad return is in a different place to yours.

robin · Post by **robin** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 5:17 pm

Baggy wrote:Copy that....

Car needs to be up and running by monday a.m. so realistically will have 3 off 2 hour hits at it on Friday, Saturday & Sunday evenings.

You will have fun getting at the thermostat while the VVC inlet manifold is fitted on a 111S - you'll also have fun removing the VVC inlet manifold, though it can be done I think (I did it on my S2 135R recently, but subsequently took the grinder to the boot wall to cut a nice access hatch, so now much easier). If your carpet is removable, I would consider cutting the hatch, then bolting it back in afterwards

I wouldn't waste time attempting to remove stat without removing manifold.

Please don't use any of that gasket gunk - in all probability if you are careful taking off the inlet manifold it will not tear the gasket and so in worst case reuse old one rather than gunk.

You really should drain all coolant first - you don't want to risk hydraulic piston death

I am not sure where best to drain to make sure you get all coolant out - I normally drain at the drivers side where it goes into the heater matrix pipe at the engine end, but you could probably also drain it at the rad return pipe and get more coolant out that way (remember the stat is after the rad return pipe, so there should be a clear path for all coolant to come out of the rad return pipe; to flush, just keep topping up from a hose while you drain from the return, I suppose.

Good luck!

Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 4:12 pm

RIght,found the problem and tried a couple of things on the way.

Point 1: check for any more air, yes found a bit in the rad. still running 94-95

Point 2: Lawrence suggested too rich coolant. Colant is pretty blue, so drained the expansion tank and refilled with clean water. Temp now 93-94

Point 3: Fooked temp sender. £12 lighter and 30mins, fitted and temp is now down to 88-89! Going to blast back up to preston in a bit so we'll see what happens then.

Moral of the story, temp senders are sh*t, this is my 3rd in 18 months

this one IIRC is less than 4 months old.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 9:10 am

Yes it works! Temnp is 88-89 then 90 with lights on!

Sorted!