You want it posting down?
Mac
Coolant problems
Front or rear wheels on the ramps?tut wrote:Nope. Best bet is to park on an uphill slope, or ramps, engine running, then slacken off the front knurled wheel bleed screw underneath the top nearside wheel arch. But DO NOT unscrew it completely or you will lose it into the depths.
Also bleed the rear point as Lawrence indicated.
tut
Baggy
Silver S1 111s
The Deen
Silver S1 111s
The Deen
You might ... it all depends on whether you can persuade the air to appear at the bleed valve or not.
The best bet is to rebleed a few times, i.e. once a week, until you get no more air coming out of the front bleed screw.
Jack up front left (either under end of chassis rail, or using conventional mid-way jacking point); in an S2 you need to remove the road wheel and liner - in an S1 you might get away with the wheel on as it has a handy grommet to remove instead.
Remember to start with engine stone cold and not running., top header tank right up to the brim, leave cap off.
In this state, open the front valve and listen to see if any air comes out before water (may or may not). Now retighten valve, start engine and use a tie-wrap or similar to prop throttle open to get ~1500-2000rpm (you can do this by putting the tie wrap between the throttle and throttle stop at the engine end).
Now open the front bleed valve again and you should get another wee bit of air and then some water. You might want to cycle valve open/close a couple of times over a minute or two, allowing the engine to return to normal idle each time - remember to top the tank up to the brim each time you do it, though.
Close bleed valve, engine off, replace liners/grommets/wheels.
With car flat (or rear higher than front), open rear bleed valve (may be on the old up-and-over pipe on earlier S1s), start engine and back to fast idle. You should get a fair squirt of water out of rear bleed valve. Allow coolant to escape until coolant level is back at min in tank, then engine off, replace tank cap and tighten bleed valve.
At this point the engine should still not be hot as it all only took a couple of minutes.
Now you should be able to start the engine on the normal idle only.
Observe temp gauge - should climb steadily to about 80-90C (depends on stat and gauge calibration) - then will sit flat at a steady temp (+/- 1C) for some time before starting to rise again towards the fan cut in point - fan should cut in, temp should drop by 5-10C and then the cycle repeats.
If the temp climbs straight from cold to the fan cut in point without holding in the 80-90 range for a good 5-10 minutes then you don't have proper circulation through the rad.
Cheers,
Robin
The best bet is to rebleed a few times, i.e. once a week, until you get no more air coming out of the front bleed screw.
Jack up front left (either under end of chassis rail, or using conventional mid-way jacking point); in an S2 you need to remove the road wheel and liner - in an S1 you might get away with the wheel on as it has a handy grommet to remove instead.
Remember to start with engine stone cold and not running., top header tank right up to the brim, leave cap off.
In this state, open the front valve and listen to see if any air comes out before water (may or may not). Now retighten valve, start engine and use a tie-wrap or similar to prop throttle open to get ~1500-2000rpm (you can do this by putting the tie wrap between the throttle and throttle stop at the engine end).
Now open the front bleed valve again and you should get another wee bit of air and then some water. You might want to cycle valve open/close a couple of times over a minute or two, allowing the engine to return to normal idle each time - remember to top the tank up to the brim each time you do it, though.
Close bleed valve, engine off, replace liners/grommets/wheels.
With car flat (or rear higher than front), open rear bleed valve (may be on the old up-and-over pipe on earlier S1s), start engine and back to fast idle. You should get a fair squirt of water out of rear bleed valve. Allow coolant to escape until coolant level is back at min in tank, then engine off, replace tank cap and tighten bleed valve.
At this point the engine should still not be hot as it all only took a couple of minutes.
Now you should be able to start the engine on the normal idle only.
Observe temp gauge - should climb steadily to about 80-90C (depends on stat and gauge calibration) - then will sit flat at a steady temp (+/- 1C) for some time before starting to rise again towards the fan cut in point - fan should cut in, temp should drop by 5-10C and then the cycle repeats.
If the temp climbs straight from cold to the fan cut in point without holding in the 80-90 range for a good 5-10 minutes then you don't have proper circulation through the rad.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
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