Was wheelspin detector, Now shrek gets a bumjob

[pete]

This is probably a daft suggestions but what about a bicycle speedo (you mentioned bike - I'm guessing you meant motorbike).

They have a wee magnet that fastens on a spoke and a wee sensor that goes on a fork. And a small but easy to read digital display that fastens onteh bars, you can get a wireless one for 25UKP or 2 wired ones for 20UKP.
2 digital display you can velcro to the dash - or find someone clever to make a logic circuit? No idea where that would start but as one speedo approached zero then you would want the light to flash faster and faster?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Catey ... 360029335/

Good Luck

[Mikie711]

I used the 10bolts that hold my discs to the ali belled hubs on my car as a trigger for the sensor but you can use the back of the wheel studs if you have any and if you can get the sensor to them IYSWIM.

[Rich H]

OK then how about an overly complicated impractical but interesting solution:

Build a small open differential but instead of one gear between the 2 driveshaft gears like normal you have 2 gears. (the critical bit!)
The result is that with both wheels moving at the same speed you get no movment of the crown wheel.

As soon as you start moving the wheels at different speeds you get movment in the crown wheel then output that via a speedo (Needs to read +/-) that will give you a slip indicator.

Can someone check that would work? Description is crap I know... Needs pics - maybe later...

I'm pretty sure it would... Still impractical but would be properly in-keeping with the Landy ethic... Especially if you can make it out of cast iron

[thinfourth]

Stuff

I almost understand that

But just pretend you are talking to someone that is a hammer loving simpleton with a welder fetish

[thinfourth]

I used the 10bolts that hold my discs to the ali belled hubs on my car as a trigger for the sensor but you can use the back of the wheel studs if you have any and if you can get the sensor to them IYSWIM.

Ah ha there is 5 bolts on the back of the hub that holds the disc on

Bingo i have a trigger

[robin]

Buy two of the kingbright LEDs and two of the sensors Mike posted links to and two 470 ohm 1/4w or 1/2w resistors.

Join together with a few bits of wire.

Spin the wheels.

The lights should turn on when the studs are near the sensor and turn off when the studs are away from the sensor.



Cheers,
Robin

[thinfourth]

Thats what i thought you meant

HONEST

But i won't both with complicated stuff like a switch as shreks wiring is sufficiently random that i use a big sodding master switch to kill everything as i still haven't worked out exactly what works the wipers as it certainly isn't the wiper switch

Just need to find a trigger as the bolts at the back of the hub aren't easily accessed and its probably better to have the sensor somewhere accessible but protected and are those sensors quite hardy as in water, mud crap etc.

[Mikie711]

They are IP67 rated so dust proof and water proof up to 1m immersion. Should stand up to all you can through at them as long as the wiring is protected.

[robin]

On Lawrence's Hayabusa 7 we strapped something to the propshaft - I think it was probably just a stainless steel jubilee clip, or maybe two (180 degrees opposed) for balance.

Cheers,
Robin

[thinfourth]

Needs to be something at the wheel as being a live axle everything is inside the axle casing until it pops out at the wheel hubs. So modifying the brake disc is probably easiest as i have a pile of old ones as spares and it is all low speed stuff so they aren't hugely critical

[thinfourth]

At last i have shrek in bits and i have a nice set of fiddle brakes as a birthday present so this project is now a go

I should really start a build blog as i have cut 18" off the back of shrek due to tin worm and a tree and i am welding up bits of chassis and also fitting 4 pot calipers to the rear wheels to give enough bite for the fiddle brakes.

Anyone interested?

[Rich H]

Have you removed the tree? Of course we are interested!

[Corranga]

Have you removed the tree? Of course we are interested!

More so it the tree could be incorporated into the built, pickup with wooden loading deck?

It's all interesting stuff, post some pics

Chris

[thinfourth]

Well Shrek the landrover (green and mouldy and no one is entirely sure what it is) has had a few dents of late. Like i reversed into/through/over a tree which somewhat damaged a rear corner and after a snatch recovery earlier in the year the rear cross member was gone. So the plan was to chop off the back and replace it with something more solid and less prone to damage.

Also i was intending fitting fiddle brakes which allow one wheel at a time to be braked on the back axle allowing tighter turning, and it will also let you control wheelspin. I got a set of handles and cylinders as its not much more then building yourself


So step one was get shrek into the garage and start chopping

Sadly at this point i have already removed the side which had been squished and you can see the temporary rear crossmember. Also you can see the shock on the right hand side is behind the axle which is a problem as it goes to lump of chassis which is about to be lopped off.

Fast forward a good bit and shrek has got smaller

I've also moved the shock absorber top mount to the forward position. I've also removed the hub as it is in the way of carrying out the shock absorber mod.

While the hub is off it is time to tackle problem one with the fiddle brakes. The standard 2 pot calliper don't have enough power to lock a wheel so you need to fit a larger calliper. Thankfully i have a spare set of 4 pots after upgrading the brakes on the road going landrover. But the calipers have different fittings so you need to cut off one lug and weld it back on about 5 mm further round the axle.


Before

After

Success the calliper is fitted just the caliper rubs on the disc so a couple of washers under the mounts and it was centralised.

So on with getting the chassis rebuilt and heres one I prepared earlier

I made this out of some box section i had lying around

So got the chassis nice and lever by the use of jacks and chain blocks etc and then offered up the new bit of chassis with the use of some big hammers got it into final position.


Lots of welding later and it is fitted


Still got a few bits of plating to do for really beefing up the attachment to the old chassis as there is going to be a winch fitted to the rear at some point so it needs to be strong to resist the forces involved.



So jobs still to do are

Finish welding on the chassis
Alter the left hand brakes
Fit the fiddle brakes into the cab
Pipe up the brakes
Rebuild the callipers
Extend the rollcage back to the new chassis
And fit robins traction control lights

[Rich H]

Loving your work