bit of work needed - advice please (multiple questions!)

tuscan_thunder · Post by **tuscan_thunder** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 9:49 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:My old clutch is 7.1-6.9 mm acording to my verniers. New size is 6.9-7.4 service limit is 5.6. Rivets are 1mm deep service limit is 0.2 so perfectly servicable. I got a release bearing and cover plate too but I would definatly get a new release bearing.

Test the clutch by pulling away carefully in 2nd gear see if it slips. Juddering could be CV joints (Driveshafts) or clutch I would think. Red hose supposedly causes selection problems, but I still have one with no ill effects yet.

Thanks for checking that Richard.

Aye, I've tried the 2nd gear foot down effort and also tried it in 3rd and 4th but no sign of slipping. Would the CVs need replaced or just greased? Would be cheaper than a clutch I suppose even if they needed replaced.

(I checked the TB isn't being constricted by the K&N 'noisemaker' induction kit but took the filter and pipe off and cleaned the butterfly with carb cleaner and gave it a squirt of WD too. Cleaned the throttle springs and re-greased them too)

Sticking in new rear pads on Monday anyway and getting my mechanic mate to bleed the brakes so I'll ask him as well.

::edited:: Aye, I've got stands - Lawrence is a wee bit far away from me really but if I can work out exactly what the problem is then my mechanic mate'll sort it out!!

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 9:57 pm

I doubt that driveshafts would be cheaper TBH. Have a look at Eliseparts.com for typical prices. I think the driveshafts are specific to the Liz.

Have you had a look at SELOC technical? Deffo worth a look. Most of the rest is all political bollocks but the tech side is very very good. you will have to regiser but don't pay.

Brake bleed and pads will take about an hour and a half. Do it yourself, you'll learn more and it will only cost you a few ££.

HTH
Rich

tuscan_thunder · Post by **tuscan_thunder** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:03 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:I doubt that driveshafts would be cheaper TBH. Have a look at Eliseparts.com for typical prices. I think the driveshafts are specific to the Liz.

Have you had a look at SELOC technical? Deffo worth a look. Most of the rest is all political bollocks but the tech side is very very good. you will have to regiser but don't pay.

Brake bleed and pads will take about an hour and a half. Do it yourself, you'll learn more and it will only cost you a few ££.

HTH
Rich

I usually do most of my own work but I always find bleeding brakes such a 'scunner' of a job and I'm never happy that i've got it right so for the sake of £20 I'd rather just get it done at the garage. (Built up my hillclimb Fiesta - learnt a lot by doing things on it and it was good 'cause anything I broke in the process was cheap to replace!!)

I'll see if some of the SE guys are at Alford on Sunday and get them to have a run in it and see what they think. It's bugging me as it doesn't appear to slip and doesn't always judder - usually only when it's hot and in traffic. There appear to be no oil problems - my car (touch wood) never uses oil. No sign of leaks and I had a look round the clutch cylinder earlier - all looks fine.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:08 pm

There have been problems with the clutch slave mount flexing, there is a support bracket available. I only mention driveshafts as thats what the service manual says is a symptom. (I assume you have a service manual, if not PM me

)

I might make it up there depending on all sorts of things, should be interesting to say the least. I'll chuck the block tester in the boot as it makes K series owners feel better to know their head gaskets are OK (For a bit!)

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:12 pm

I usually do most of my own work but I always find bleeding brakes such a 'scunner' of a job and I'm never happy that i've got it right so for the sake of £20 I'd rather just get it done at the garage. (Built up my hillclimb Fiesta - learnt a lot by doing things on it and it was good 'cause anything I broke in the process was cheap to replace!!)

You prolly know more than me then! Brakes are easy on the liz. Nothing complicated to get in the way. Done mine 3 or 4 times with no problem.

tuscan_thunder · Post by **tuscan_thunder** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:13 pm

My mate's got a tester so I 'think' everything's fine. It's 135 kit that's on and I'm lead to believe (wrongly probably) that it's an uprated gasket.

I have no service manual - I'll be in touch about that if that's ok.

Hopefully see you over the weekend - ask about in the paddock for me as secretary of Grampian Automobile Club (who run the event) something's wrong if folk can't find me!!

signing off for the evening - thanks for all your help so far!!

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:27 pm

YHPM

Goes without saying (I hope) if anyone thinks I'm talking sh*t, please jump in, always happy to be educated

Brunty · Post by **Brunty** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:25 pm

A good way to test the clutch is to be driving allong at a lowish speed, say 30ish. Select a highish gear, say 4th. Put the clutch in and build up to a decent amount of revs, around 5 normally does it for me, drop the clutch and bury the throttle.

If the engine just dies down to low revs then your clutch is fine. If it slides down the rev range or just holds high revs then it's knackered.

Does the juddering happen once the clutch is fully released?

Brunty

tuscan_thunder · Post by **tuscan_thunder** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:20 am

I've tried what you suggested and the engine struggles so I suspect the clutch is ok (for the moment at least).

The juddering is usually just as the clutch bites, maybe stops a split second after the clutch is fully engaged. Strangely, it hasn't done it for a few days now but neither have I driven the car in traffic - maybe its just heat or something. (I have NO red clutch hose!!)