Where for a new K series

[GilesM]

Thanks for the replies, I don't intend to get rid of the car at any point, (I may be a wee bit sad but I sort of attached to it, almost one of the family) I will look into the re-build option, does anybody know anything about this lot, they say hey can supply a fully tested 140bhp engine, http://www.wilcoxengines.co.uk/default.htm.

[campbell]

No idea. I'd be exploring Minister and the other well known racing K builder whose name I forget, they do a 1.9 I think...ah, Scholar? The Se7en brigade could be really helpful to you here, Giles - speak up, Jason and Rossybee and others!

Also Dave Andrews - even if just to get the advice bank going.

Robin, AndyG and a couple of others have some knowledge of who does what in this space I reckon, and can probably help avoid the "SELOC effect".

Please do keep us up to date with what you find, as you will not be the last to have to do this...it's getting more like a Veterans forum by the week

Campbell

[robin]

Unless you want a replacement block/crank (and there is no reason to want that if you're keeping the power level more or less standard) then a rebuild using your block and crank would be where I would start. Labour to remove and refit is the same, time off the road higher of course.

If it were me, I would strip it down to the crank and get the crank journals measured and inspect the cam sprocket drive.

If they are still in spec (I expect they will be) I would rebuild with new bearings. If out of spec I would probably try to source a second hand crank in good condition or start to think about a different block at that point.

Then you need new bearings, (main and big end), new pistons (they come with rings, I think), new crank oil seals, new liners (may as well as they are cheap).

Then deck the block to match the new liners and to get the standproud perfect (protects against HGF).

It's then reasonable to get a new oil and water pump I think.

It's up to you whether you also want to change the oil rail for the uprated land rover item - considering the costs I think it's probably not a bad idea.

Then you want new head bolts, new cam belt & tensioner.

I reckon the parts for that lot (assuming no new crank required) will come to more-or-less 1K.

Labour for decking block and assembly isn't going to cost more than another 500 I think.

I seem to remember a new bottom end from PTP came in at ~1,200, so comparable, but no guarantee of liner standproud on that and the block hasn't been heat cycled, so even if you do deck it, the block will warp as it heat cycles, so an old block is actually better than a new one.

If you have another 600-odd spare you would be well advised to get the KR1 spec head work done (flowed and ported, larger inlet valves, new valve seats and guides). With standard cams this gets you 145-150BHP and is lovely to drive and revs to the limiter happily. As a side effect your head face is cleaned up, peened and skimmed and you'll get new valve stem and cam oil seals.

At that point you have very nearly a new engine for around the 2-2.5K mark which will be better than the original in terms of performance and hopefully is as bullet proof as a K can be re: HGF.

Cheers,
Robin

[campbell]

I really must start saving

Although the head bit is mostly taken care of already. Which is nice.

Well there you go Giles, a credible route to another fab 100,000 miles??!!

[tut]

Robin, what do you think it is worth paying for a new S2 K engine?

tut

[BiggestNizzy]

Stuff

Cheers,
Robin

This would be my plan should my engine last to the magic 100k

[GilesM]

Robin, thanks alot, I think that gives me the general idea of what I need to do, the engine is still running, but I am worried it won't be for too much longer, taking the car off the road isn't a problem, I was planning to give it a major overhaul this winter (ball joints and powder coating wishbones type stuff) and £2.5k sounds pretty good, just need to start doing some research now, would like to do as much of it as possible myself, more to learn about it than save the cash.

One quick question, would the KR1 spec head work with the standard 120bhp ECU, 145bhp sounds good.

[GilesM]

Well there you go Giles, a credible route to another fab 100,000 miles??!!

If it's as good as the first 100k it'll be worth every penny. I'll let everyone know what I end up doing.

[Ferg]

If it's of interest, i've used the guys at Engine Services previously with good results. If you were doing a lot of it yourself, you could have these guys do as much or as little as required to fill in the gap. They're your side of Edinburger too.

http://www.engineservicesandcomponents.com/

[robin]

Robin, what do you think it is worth paying for a new S2 K engine?

tut

I don't know for sure - here are some guesses though ...

A short engine should be worth ~1000 I think assuming it really is in factory condition. PTP sold them for ~1200 IIRC and eliseparts want nearly 500+VAT for a block (no crank, bearings, rods, pistons, liners, etc.), so you know that building one yourself from all new parts would cost you easily that money.

A long engine (i.e. with a head but not dressed) is easily worth another 400 I think as the head would fetch 200 and you've already got the head gasket, long bolts, seals, cambelt, tensioner, etc., fitted. and these would add up to another 200-ish anyway.

Assuming Graeme's is a long engine then the cambelt & tensioner must be considered U/S after years sitting in a crate in the open air I think, but I still think 1250 would be a good price for a buyer and 1500 would be as much as he could expect (after that people cannot justify the extra cost over a second hand or recon engine).

You would need somebody that absolutely wanted a brand new engine, though, and as discussed above, in many cases that just isn't required.

Cheers,
Robin

[robin]

One quick question, would the KR1 spec head work with the standard 120bhp ECU, 145bhp sounds good.

Yes, if you stick with standard cams it will deffo work and 145 would be easily achieved.

Cheers,
Robin

[GilesM]

If it's of interest, i've used the guys at Engine Services previously with good results. If you were doing a lot of it yourself, you could have these guys do as much or as little as required to fill in the gap. They're your side of Edinburger too.

http://www.engineservicesandcomponents.com/

Thanks, I'll have look.

[GilesM]

One quick question, would the KR1 spec head work with the standard 120bhp ECU, 145bhp sounds good.

Yes, if you stick with standard cams it will deffo work and 145 would be easily achieved.

Cheers,
Robin

Thanks Robin, sounds exactly what I need, unfortunately there could be some dumb questions heading your way when I work out (roughly) what I plan to do.

[robin]

I'm no expert on the block - know plenty about the head side of things - am embarking on my own block rebuild as it happens so we might stumble across some of the problems together!

Cheers,
Robin

[campbell]

I'm no expert on the block - know plenty about the head side of things - am embarking on my own block rebuild as it happens so we might stumble across some of the problems together!

Cheers,
Robin

That would be fun to watch