I think that is the one that I bought or similar from eBay, and CraigW fitted it for me.
tut
Non starter - baffling S1 fuel pump or electrical issue...
Re: Non starter - baffling S1 fuel pump or electrical issue.
Well there's great news and not so good news!
The great news is, I fitted the new fuse etc from Halfords as Robin suggested, turned on the ignition, heard the fuel pump -sounding louder than ever- and it started up perfectly! Sweet! So I drove around a bit, feeling confident I then visited a friend up in Kirriemuir - everything was as it should be!
But...
The not so good news, when I started driving back from Kirrie I switched on full beam on a very dark country road and all the lights went out! Exterior and interior, but engine kept running. The Stack went dark, even the lights for the light switches. Thankfully I was on a straight bit of road, so switched off full beam, Stack went a little bit crazy but all the lights came back. However the speedo and rev counter wont go to zero.
So I drove home not using full beam (I had on the way there and it was fine) and despite restarting the car the speedo telling me I was doing 120 all the way, but everything else was fine besides the heater blower which stopped working until I got near home..
So very disappointing, it was all looking so great! Now it seems like I've got a whole new electrical issue?!?
Oh well... at least it's running now! 
Any new suggestions for my current situation!?
Cheers
Scott
The great news is, I fitted the new fuse etc from Halfords as Robin suggested, turned on the ignition, heard the fuel pump -sounding louder than ever- and it started up perfectly! Sweet! So I drove around a bit, feeling confident I then visited a friend up in Kirriemuir - everything was as it should be!
But...
The not so good news, when I started driving back from Kirrie I switched on full beam on a very dark country road and all the lights went out! Exterior and interior, but engine kept running. The Stack went dark, even the lights for the light switches. Thankfully I was on a straight bit of road, so switched off full beam, Stack went a little bit crazy but all the lights came back. However the speedo and rev counter wont go to zero.
So I drove home not using full beam (I had on the way there and it was fine) and despite restarting the car the speedo telling me I was doing 120 all the way, but everything else was fine besides the heater blower which stopped working until I got near home..
So very disappointing, it was all looking so great! Now it seems like I've got a whole new electrical issue?!?
Oh well... at least it's running now! Any new suggestions for my current situation!?
Cheers
Scott
S1 50th Ann.
Re: Non starter - baffling S1 fuel pump or electrical issue.
P.S. here's a picture of my burnt out fuel pump fuse and fuse holder! Some little bits maybe fell out when I removed it but that's pretty much how it was while in the car!?
S1 50th Ann.
Re: Non starter - baffling S1 fuel pump or electrical issue.
The stack needles can be returned to zero by turning ignition on, wait for needles to stop, turn off. Repeat until needles are at zero.
Did you remove your battery during this? Is it possible you have not properly attached or tightened the battery terminal clamps?
Failing that, chances are full beam issue is a bad earth or a bad common live point. In a metal bodied car the earth for each component is normally routed to some nearby chassis mount point. In plastic kit cars made of turnips the earth is usually run back parallel to the live - I would need to look at the wiring diagram to see where the headlight earthing points are, but wouldn't be surprised if they were up in the dash somewhere.
Assuming the condition is persistent and repeatable:
One test is to remove the wheel arch liners or just the access grommets and then remove the connectors off the back of the headlights and see whether pulling on the full beam has the same effect. Also have a look at the connectors - they may be as bad as your fuse holder!
If you find that the problem "goes away" with the connectors hanging off, connect up just the left, repeat, just the right, repeat, both together, repeat. If it's only one side or the other the fault must be pretty close to that circuit; if it happens regardless of whether any of them are connected or not, the fault is in the relay control circuit or the relay itself.
Assuming the fault is in the high current wiring rather than the relay you can measure the earth and live resistance CAREFULLY to help determine what's happening. With the connectors still hanging off the ignition on and the full beam lights still switched on (though obviously not actually lit) do this:
The earth resistance from the headlight plug should be measured back to the battery -ve terminal.
The live resistance should be measured back to the battery +ve terminal.
To work out which wires are live and which are earth measure the VOLTAGE relative to both battery -ve and battery +ve on each terminal of the connector. Put the black probe on the battery terminal. Use the red probe on the connector terminals.
Note down the colour of each wire and the voltage relative to bat- and bat+.
Now the wires that are at 0v relative to bat- but -12v relative to bat+ are actually earth wires (post up which colours these are). The wires that are at 12v relative to bat- and 0v relative to bat+ are live. Wires that are at 0v relative to both bat- or bat+ or some indeterminate voltage (>1, <12) are open circuit.
Now switch to resistance mode.
Measure the resistance touching the two probes to each other and nothing else - should be 0 but on many meters you won't get below 0.2 - that's your baseline.
Measure the resistance from each earth wire to bat-.
Measure the resistance from each live wire to bat+.
In each case you should have less than 1ohm to the respective battery terminal.
If you have >1ohm, post up which wire colours and what reading you got. If all is as expected we need to hunt elsewhere.
Cheers,
Robin
Did you remove your battery during this? Is it possible you have not properly attached or tightened the battery terminal clamps?
Failing that, chances are full beam issue is a bad earth or a bad common live point. In a metal bodied car the earth for each component is normally routed to some nearby chassis mount point. In plastic kit cars made of turnips the earth is usually run back parallel to the live - I would need to look at the wiring diagram to see where the headlight earthing points are, but wouldn't be surprised if they were up in the dash somewhere.
Assuming the condition is persistent and repeatable:
One test is to remove the wheel arch liners or just the access grommets and then remove the connectors off the back of the headlights and see whether pulling on the full beam has the same effect. Also have a look at the connectors - they may be as bad as your fuse holder!
If you find that the problem "goes away" with the connectors hanging off, connect up just the left, repeat, just the right, repeat, both together, repeat. If it's only one side or the other the fault must be pretty close to that circuit; if it happens regardless of whether any of them are connected or not, the fault is in the relay control circuit or the relay itself.
Assuming the fault is in the high current wiring rather than the relay you can measure the earth and live resistance CAREFULLY to help determine what's happening. With the connectors still hanging off the ignition on and the full beam lights still switched on (though obviously not actually lit) do this:
The earth resistance from the headlight plug should be measured back to the battery -ve terminal.
The live resistance should be measured back to the battery +ve terminal.
To work out which wires are live and which are earth measure the VOLTAGE relative to both battery -ve and battery +ve on each terminal of the connector. Put the black probe on the battery terminal. Use the red probe on the connector terminals.
Note down the colour of each wire and the voltage relative to bat- and bat+.
Now the wires that are at 0v relative to bat- but -12v relative to bat+ are actually earth wires (post up which colours these are). The wires that are at 12v relative to bat- and 0v relative to bat+ are live. Wires that are at 0v relative to both bat- or bat+ or some indeterminate voltage (>1, <12) are open circuit.
Now switch to resistance mode.
Measure the resistance touching the two probes to each other and nothing else - should be 0 but on many meters you won't get below 0.2 - that's your baseline.
Measure the resistance from each earth wire to bat-.
Measure the resistance from each live wire to bat+.
In each case you should have less than 1ohm to the respective battery terminal.
If you have >1ohm, post up which wire colours and what reading you got. If all is as expected we need to hunt elsewhere.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Re: Non starter - baffling S1 fuel pump or electrical issue.
Happy memories from my S1 days.
Police escort back home from Ellon with no lights.
tut
Police escort back home from Ellon with no lights.
tut
Re: Non starter - baffling S1 fuel pump or electrical issue.
lol for a moment last night I was picturing something similar!tut wrote:Happy memories from my S1 days.
Police escort back home from Ellon with no lights.
tut
Cheers Robin, that'll keep me busy tonight
S1 50th Ann.
was fuel pump or electrical issue. Now heater blower :-/
After doing a couple of hundred miles everything is working perfect... except for - the bane of my life - fekin heater blower! I put power to the blower by-passing the resistor pack and it still didn't work.
Over a year ago me and my dad took out the blower (which hadn't worked for way over year) and fixed a corroded terminal and gave it some new DIY brushes. It wasn't as powerful as before but it worked. So it's not a huge surprise it has died and is probably purely coincidental it happened on run testing something else.
afaik you can't get an OEM blowers any more so I've been looking through Chopper on SELOC's threads where he bodges a Land Rover Defender motor into the blower unit.
Any better suggestions!?
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php? ... pid6744556
Cheers
Scott
Over a year ago me and my dad took out the blower (which hadn't worked for way over year) and fixed a corroded terminal and gave it some new DIY brushes. It wasn't as powerful as before but it worked. So it's not a huge surprise it has died and is probably purely coincidental it happened on run testing something else.
afaik you can't get an OEM blowers any more so I've been looking through Chopper on SELOC's threads where he bodges a Land Rover Defender motor into the blower unit.
Any better suggestions!?
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php? ... pid6744556
Cheers
Scott
S1 50th Ann.