S1 rear toe-link balljoint hub spacers.

The place to "speak geek"
2F45T4U
Posts: 312
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:35 am
Location: Aberdeenshire

Re: S1 rear toe-link balljoint hub spacers.

Post by 2F45T4U » Sun May 31, 2015 3:17 pm

I'm not 'concerned' about bolt stretch in the slightest, simply an observation. The double nuts are there to stop the exposed thread from messing up with dirt/rust, i've done the same with all the balljoints as well, makes life so much easier...

Without an explaination of why Lotus decided to put it was there, iam not willing to speculate further but I follow their judgement. like you say, it may just be there to save a couple of turns on a nut during assembly.

The stetch holding the nut on (tight) is between the lower nut and the ball, not between the two nuts. A nyloc might stop you loosing your nut round the track, but it wont stop the joint coming slack in the first place... :P

thanks.

woody
Posts: 5637
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:03 pm
Location: Southside Triangle

Re: S1 rear toe-link balljoint hub spacers.

Post by woody » Sun May 31, 2015 4:42 pm

Can't remember if the latest spec still use a nyloc or a K lock at this point. Know it's a k lock fnut or the inboard joint & that the thread was changed to a finer pitch.

User avatar
robin
Jedi Master
Posts: 10544
Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:39 pm

Re: S1 rear toe-link balljoint hub spacers.

Post by robin » Sun May 31, 2015 7:35 pm

Of course this is totally off topic now, but worth discussing for others that stumble across this thread and wonder about the various nut choices.

I assumed that you had lost the nyloc and replaced it with the classic two-nuts-locked-off solution.

Why Lotus use a nyloc or K-nut is not known to me, but I assume it's because the nut is subject to some rotational forces that might make it undo in normal service (a bit like a low energy version of the drive shaft nuts). Every balljoint I can remember seeing has had a nyloc on it (I know because it's a royal PITA to undo when the balljoint is old and loose and the thread is rusty).

If that is the case then you ARE relying on the two nuts being locked off against one another, otherwise you don't have anything to resist the forces that make the nut come undone.

If that is all true then you are relying on stretching the bolt between the two nuts (as well as relying on stretching the bolt from the inner nut down to the ball joint itself). Without that stretch between the nuts they cannot be locked off.

Over to Woody or somebody else that knows what they're talking about (i.e. not me ;-)) ...

Cheers,
Robin

P.S. In real life these things rust so fast that you could probably put it on hand tight with a crappy old nut off the garage floor and it would never come undone ;-) ... though the bolt might snap in the end!
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut

User avatar
Ferg
Posts: 3966
Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:56 pm
Location: Auld Reekie

Re: S1 rear toe-link balljoint hub spacers.

Post by Ferg » Sun Jul 12, 2015 1:11 pm

Really useful thread. Just fitted an EP toe link kits and was having the usual washer debate in my head.

For some bizarre reason there isn't guidance out there on how to achieve factory default with the toe kits. I have to say now having fitted both that Yvo's instructions are far superior. If I hadn't fitted a kit previously, the EP left pretty much everything up to interpretation. The guys at EP still give great service, but all the lessons learnt throughout the years appear not to have made it into the instructions.

So, to something i've noticed that my setup is different what what you've done here. My car didn't have the 10mm spaced above the upright. So much so that the bolt thread was exhausted which has meant I HAD to put washers above the upright in order to torque the bolt. Slightly worried that Robin mentions this is not good, although I agree that I can't see how it would have any impact either way. I also added two below which WILL affect the bump steer. Going to measure up how it differs from what I took off to check, but it was visually pretty close.

I'll keep the countersunk washers for the standard type in case they are of use to people.

Post Reply