Fitting Toyota Hurricane

jj · Post by jj » Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:43 am

I am pretty sure on mine that connector is just hanging. If you want me to pop over later on for a look pm me. I have had my hurricane on the car since I bought it and no problems just nice noise

dezzy · Post by **dezzy** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:20 pm

OH. MY. GOD!!!!!

It sounds absolutely amazing!!! Not much difference up to about 4k rpm, then starts to get really raspy and throaty, then when the 2nd cam kicks in, it sounds like the car is going to take off!!!!

Things went much better today! Thanks to everyone for the advice and offer of assistance.

I got an angled screwdriver set from Halfrauds, which finally enabled me to get the MAF sensor off. Finally got the connector off that vacuum solenoid and the MAF connector also took a bit of effort. Definitely had to take the wheel and wheel arch liner off to get at the clips on the airbox . . . some lovely dirt and dead flies in the filter

It was a bit fiddly getting the other half of the airbox off and the bolts were really tight. I think that's the main thing that has taken me longer . . . getting seized connections, screws and bolts off.

Got all the Hurricane bits and bobs on okay. I blocked off the end of the vacuum hoses with electrical tape and did the same with the connector that was in the vacuum solenoid. Don't see any harm in taking off the solenoid and leaving the connector if it's now not used.

Managed to tie the connector and vacuum hoses out of the way, mainly onto the bracket that held the original airbox. The only thing the hurricane is slightly touching is the pipe coming out of the coolant tank. Definitely not touching anything else like fuel lines. The induction hose at the left side of the filter on the Toyota engine is shorter than that on the Rover engine, so I think that's why I don't have the same problems as Rover engines with it touching fuel lines.

Took it out for a wee drive and I think I've fallen in love!

Could never tire of that sound!! It's been worth every penny and worth all the hassle and fiddlyness! (and sore/cut hands!) I feel as if the throttle response is a bit better, but not sure if that's my imagination? Also noticed that temp on the stack is a couple of degress lower than usual when I put my foot down, but I guess that is the whole point of the induction kit!

I'll write up some instructions and tips in the next few days for anyone else who decides to fit one to a Toyota engine. The supplied instructions are definitely missing a few details and don't tell you in advance what tools you need.

Sorry for all the ranting yesterday . . . much happier now!!

Happy D

VXJON · Post by **VXJON** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:11 pm

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:16 pm

Told you DIY was fun. You could have paid a mechanic £30 to fit that...

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 11:00 pm

Also noticed that temp on the stack is a couple of degress lower than usual when I put my foot down, but I guess that is the whole point of the induction kit!

I cannot see why that would be true? It might drop inlet air temperature by a degree or two, but cannot see why that would make the coolant temperature change at all.

Cheers,
Robin

dezzy · Post by **dezzy** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:24 am

robin wrote: I cannot see why that would be true? It might drop inlet air temperature by a degree or two, but cannot see why that would make the coolant temperature change at all.

It's probably my imagination . . . And you've also got to remember I ain't got a clue how these things work!

Novice Racer · Post by **Novice Racer** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:59 am

robin wrote:
Also noticed that temp on the stack is a couple of degress lower than usual when I put my foot down, but I guess that is the whole point of the induction kit!
I cannot see why that would be true? It might drop inlet air temperature by a degree or two, but cannot see why that would make the coolant temperature change at all.

Cheers,
Robin

Agreed. I have recently fitted one to my K-series and there has been no change in running temperature. However, I have since needed; 1 new radiator, 1 new fan unit, 1 new timing belt and diagnosis of a MIL light problem - so the temp staying normal has been about the only normal thing on my Elise in the past few weeks!

NR

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:42 am

Glad you like it Dezzy.

cla5h · Post by **cla5h** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:16 am

He, he, he.

Sounds like you had a riot fitting it.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:05 pm

I find when working anywhere in the engine bay the temp os always slightly different each time. I put it down to disturbing the sh*t wiring....

dezzy · Post by **dezzy** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:14 am

Question for others with a hurricane . . . has the wee flappy bit of plastic that you stick to the air vent adapter and attach to the side vents fallen off? Mine has.

I'm sure it's lying in the undertray somewhere . . . if not I'll just need to buy a bit of plastic and cut to shape. I'll then be sticking it on with glue and not the crappy double sided tape they supplied!

I know it doesn't matter too much, but I assume it helps to force the air round and into the air vent, so would like to replace it.

Question no.2: is it normal for the hurricane to make a kind of sucking noise when you start the car up and it's ticking over? It sounds like it's sucking in air. Either that or somethings loose somewhere and letting air out, but I'm sure everything was nice and tight. I guess this is probably normal, but just wanted to check!

robin · Post by **robin** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:37 am

That sucking noise is the noise of no turbulence - you see non-turbulent air is much louder than turbulent air. So what you're hearing is the sound of performance - all that non-turbulent air being forced into your engine against it's wishes

Seriously, the old one probably made much the same noise but because it was a paper filter in a plastic box it was mostly silenced - now you have it in a metal can and it's making more noise for much the same (just as turbulent) airflow.

Cheers,
Robin

P.S. It's the atmospheric pressure outside the engine that is forcing the air into the engine created vacuum. There shouldn't be any attempt to force air into the airbox and throttle - rather you want an already moving air stream to be passing the intake to the airbox so that when you open the throttle, the air is already moving and just needs to be diverted; this improves throttle response and peak power is the same, so don't worry about the aero-dynamic effects of the bit of plastic - however, if it's there to hold the pipe in place, it'll be worth using some tie wraps or something else to make sure the pipe stays there.

dezzy · Post by **dezzy** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:23 pm

Robin, you are indeed a Jedi Master! Wow! Fantastic explanation. Cheers!

The air vent adapter is bolted on and the induction pipe is stuck and cable-tied to the adapter, so it should be okay. If, however, I find the wee plastic bit, I'll try to stick it back on but good to know it's not a major issue if it's lying at the side of the motorway somewhere!

mac · Post by **mac** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 4:21 pm

laminer flow or is that just for fluids?

Mac

DDtB · Post by **DDtB** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 4:28 pm

mac wrote:laminer flow or is that just for fluids?

Mac

That's just for fluids*.

HTH.

*wtf is a laminer flow??