WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gearbox

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woody
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Re: Front end refurb - rad replacement, suspension rebuilt

Post by woody » Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:13 pm

Corranga wrote:Progress! I now have a car with no wishbones :D

I still have 1 ball joint to pop but I'll do that in the vice. Then it's time to attempt removal of bushes and ball joints.. I bought the Elise parts tools as the more I thought about it, the less I wanted to be messing around with sockets!

I spent some time cleaning up the corrosion on the passenger side, its a bit worse than the drivers side, but not too bad to my eye.

I've also managed to all of the remaining inner wheel arch bolts and holders, but still need to get the hole saw out :shock: to sort out the clam fixings.

So, silly questions time:

Is this thick metal pipe where a PRT gets fitted?
Also
What should be attached to the bolt and small bracket on the right / in the centre of the photo?
At a guess, this is from the original exhaust, possibly a heat shield, that was removed when I fitted the 4-2-1? That was 5 years ago, on a dark evening, and in a driveway though so can someone confirm, so I can remove and bin it...?
Image

Image

What's this....? :oops:
Image

Also, final question for now, how high does an Elise have to be off the ground to allow gearbox removal...
You've an S2 upper manifold heat shield fitted. The bolt/bracket is for the lower fitting if the original. Would suggest you get something fitted there esp if it's a 4-2-1 (which sits closer) as the coolant pipe is pretty exposed to the heat without it.

Yesh, that's the prrt pipe.

The final photo is the fuel filter. It's probably not been replaced in a while and the lower fitting will be corroded.

No idea how high it needs to be, that's why you have a jack!

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Stephen
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Re: Front end refurb - rad replacement, suspension rebuilt

Post by Stephen » Fri Feb 27, 2015 3:05 pm

I had all of my suspension components. Wishbones etc cleaned and electroplated by a place in Newhouse for £100
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Corranga
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Re: Front end refurb - rad replacement, suspension rebuilt

Post by Corranga » Sun Mar 01, 2015 10:57 pm

Looking good Stephen, not sure I'm cut out for doing it outdoors though!!

Not as much progress this weekend as I'd have liked..

I used the Eliseparts wishbone bushes tool to remove all 16 bushes with no problems at all. Simply put the wishbone in my vice, and lots and lots of turning the bolt by hand, then wrench.
Cannot fault the tool at all, perfect for the job at hand.

I then moved onto the ball joints, similarly, using the Eliseparts tool. Not so lucky here though. The instructions say 15 full turns to remove 1 ball joint. The first issue was that the weld on the first wishbone I chose meant that there was little to no space between the bolts and the wishbone. I proceeded with caution, but with 15 full turns, I guess I stopped checking and started scraping the threads a little. Once loosened off, and realigned, the tool very easily removed ball joint number 1. The trick is to keep the 2 bolts equally tight, I was working on 1/2 turn per bolt all the way through.
Number 2 was a different story. I think I somehow ended up a turn or 2 wrong on 1 side, and mistaking my pressure bending the bolt for the ball joint being well seized, well, I need a new pair of M12 bolts :blackeye
My advice to anyone else is take it slow and steady, don't try to rush through!
I've arranged use of a press tomorrow for the other 7...

That was all on Friday.

Saturday I only had a couple of hours as we had visitors. I spent the time removing the last of the cut off nuts, and started removing the driving lights as both are missing a nylon bolt or 2, and the springs are rusty, so I bought replacement items.
I also run some wire from the front compartment into the passenger cabin for the switch I'm planning to fit for my 2nd radiator fan. My plan is to have the fan connected via the same connector as the original, so I can simply switch over the thermostat controlled fan to the switch controlled on. The switched one will of course be controlled by a separate relay, a toggle switch, and the ignition. This is simple a precautionary measure since the clam / rad are out.

Today, I tidied the garage somewhat, and started preparing to remove the gearbox, something I wasn't going to do, but since the wishbone is off... well it seems to make sense!

I started by draining the gearbox. I used an old basin to collect the oil, also, luckily, I do like the smell of gearbox oil :lol:
As the box was draining, I jacked the car a little higher (1 pin higher on my axle stands) for a little more room under there.

Next I chopped the cable ties holding the loom to the roll over bar.

I then removed the 2 bolts holding the air filter bracket to the roll over bar (I have a K&N cone filter, so no air filter box)
I replaced the top bolt a few turns and suspended the bracket from it so it wasn't going anywhere as the fuel filter is still connected:
ImageDSC_0199

From under the car, I removed the pin from the slave cylinder, then took out the 2 bolts that hold the cylinder down from the area now cleared by the air filter bracket.
ImageDSC_0200
Whilst in there, I removed the earth strip.

Next was laying under the car to remove the gear change cables. 2 pins At this point, I gave the gearbox bolts a quick scoot with plus gas in preparation.

Finally, for today, the stater motor. The terminals were barely more than hand tight, and come off in no time. I used a small cable tie to hold the 3 leads together so I don't loose them, or miss one when I refit!
From sitting in the wheel arch, I could see the top bolt of the starter motor well, so I used a long extension bar with the 17mm socket on the end. I presumed it would be a bolt into a captive nut, but 10 minutes and 20 swear words later, I had managed to get myself (and a light) into the appropriate position to see that the incredibly tight bolt seems to have a nut on the other end!
At this point, I felt it best not to work through my frustration, and decided to revisit this at a later date, possibly from above.
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Ferg
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Re: Front end refurb - rad replacement, suspension rebuilt

Post by Ferg » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:33 pm

:popcorn

On the starter nuts, having over tightened and stripped those before on other cars, I reckon it's pretty common for them only to be rated at something like 15-20Nm. Not much at all.

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Corranga
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Re: Front end refurb - rad replacement, suspension rebuilt

Post by Corranga » Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:49 am

Haven't got around to the starter yet, but made easy work of the 7 remaining ball joints last night using a 20 ton press.

Didn't get anything else done, but I'm happy with that for a week night.
'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike

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Corranga
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Re: Front end refurb - rad replacement, suspension rebuilt

Post by Corranga » Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:52 pm

aaaaand, the starter is out :)

2 bolts hold it in, both are 15mm (on my car anyway) with 18mm (!) bolts on the inner side.
For the top bolt, it's easy enough to lean in form the passenger side of the car, get a socket on the bolt, and then lean in further, feel around the back, and get another socket in there too. You can get the wrench in with the handle pointing downwards, and locate the socket onto the nut with your other hand, then undo.

For the bottom bolt, the easiest way seemed to use a short extension bar and do the same.
Only took 20 minutes :blackeye

The reversing switch is 19mm, and comes out easy enough.

All I have to do now is pop the drive shafts, then start undoing the gearbox nuts.
'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike

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thesurfbus
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by thesurfbus » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:05 am

I started stripping my front suspension at the weekend, but couldn't get the top rear suspensions bolts out as the steering rack is in the way, do I need to cut the head off the bolt, and can the new bolt be fitted from the other side?
Also notice you have dust covers behind the discs, but my car doesn't.
Lotus Elise 220 S

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Stephen
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by Stephen » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:13 am

Can you not turn the steering one way then the other to get the bolts past the track rod
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tut
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by tut » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:46 am

thesurfbus wrote:I started stripping my front suspension at the weekend, but couldn't get the top rear suspensions bolts out as the steering rack is in the way, do I need to cut the head off the bolt, and can the new bolt be fitted from the other side?
Also notice you have dust covers behind the discs, but my car doesn't.
MMC disks had the shields behind them which were meant to dispel water, as they do not work very well in the wet on first application. Not sure if they were carried on after '98 when they changed to steel.

tut

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campbell
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by campbell » Mon Mar 09, 2015 10:12 am

I have steel disks and splash guards. On a 1999 car. Some may remove them when they've become deformed after lots of mullering when changing ball joints etc... They tend to grate or trap grit.
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woody
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by woody » Mon Mar 09, 2015 10:30 am

campbell wrote:I have steel disks and splash guards. On a 1999 car. Some may remove them when they've become deformed after lots of mullering when changing ball joints etc... They tend to grate or trap grit.
Ditto.



Have only done the wishbones on my car & the rack was fitted at the time, however thinking about it, I probably had the track rod ends off at the time.

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thesurfbus
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by thesurfbus » Mon Mar 09, 2015 11:58 am

Sorry didn't meant to hijack your thread.

Steering lock was on, and never thought about trying to turn the wheel - Doh!
Its an MMC, I guess the dust shields must have been removed as some point.
Lotus Elise 220 S

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Corranga
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by Corranga » Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:28 pm

I was just about to ask if your steering lock is on, I did exactly the same thing with that bolt! :oops:

Regarding the dust covers, according to the SELOC Wiki:
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Elise_model_history
Front Brake Disc Shields: December ‘97

VIN: W 2260 (approx.)
Alloy shield fitted on inboard side of front discs.

My car is somewhere around Q1 or 2 98, chassis 2727.
By that model history it fits in, having the disc shields, but not the revised cant rails.
'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike

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Corranga
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Re: WAS:Front end refurb NOW:Suspension rebuild, rad and gea

Post by Corranga » Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:45 pm

So, Sunday was my birthday, so I did family stuff rather than working on car stuff.

Saturday, I spent a little time trying to progress with removing the gearbox, but I can't get the rear-most bolt out of the gearbox mount bracket, and am struggling to loosen some of the gearbox bolts too :cry:
Image


I did progress with some other bits though.

Since the front clam is off, I have now fitted a new horn.
I also started looking at the wiring for my radiator fans.
I knew the old one was seized - that is part of the reason for beginning the rad replacement.
I didn't realise quite how bad it was.
I picked up a nice condition used rad fan, it runs away happily, with no issues, but is missing the connector.
Rather than soldering a join in the wires, I thought I'd look at removing the wire all together, and soldering into the original point in the motor.
As it turned out, the unit is sealed, so I didn't progress this any further and simply soldered the connector from the old fan onto the replacement one.
I did find this though... Old vs. new!!
Image

The worst bit at bottom of the photo is a proper hole, without me trying to make it one.
I could see the copper windings of the armature (I think) shining through!

For replacement, I have 2 fans. My plan is to wire the 2nd to a switch in the cabin (via the ignition switch and a relay) for piece of mind!
I'm hoping to (find and..) use the same connector as the original fan so I can swap them over for occasional test / use.

I also had a bit of a digress and a play with electrolysis for rust removal.
I started by buying a big tub:
Image

Some water, bicarb, copper pipe and a battery charger later:
Image

You can see it working here:
Image

I plan to switch the copper for an old brake disc (when I get one..) for greater surface area.

This come from finding that the Arbroath electroplaters number doesn't exist any more :blackeye
I looked into DIY and it doesn't look too bad, essentially using the set up in the photos above to remove the rust, then reversing the polarity, cleaning, and introducing zinc, and later passivated chemicals into the mixture (this is a summary, there is a bit more to it..!)
Depending on the speed / efficiency of the rust removal, I might continue this route, otherwise, I believe there is a place in Motherwell, and potentially a smaller place in Fife somewhere, but neither were open on Saturday for me to call.

I also washed the Alfa and the Porsche..
'16 MINI Cooper S - Family fun hatch
'98 Lotus Elise - Fun day car
'04 Maserati Coupe GT - Manual, v8, Italian...
'18 Mazda Mx5 - The wife's, so naturally my daily
'19 Ducati Monster 797 - Baby bike bike

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