Porky EFI

Post by **Shug** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:21 pm

Cracking work so far matey - lapping this thread up.

When you get it sorted, you have to bring it up one weekend for a shufty

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:39 pm

Love to mate! Its fairly rat look but its going to work!

Only problems are that I need an MOT ($) 2 Tyres ($$) and Tax ($$$)

MOT Should be OK (As long as I bribe the testers guide dog) Couple of rusty brake lines (Wire brush and underseal will fix) Tyres will be anything that fits. Currently its sporting wheelbarrow tyres, I think I might splash out on Fulda's. They are a bit of a stupid size 185/70/14 so the choice is a bit limited. Maxsports do make some that will fit...

Its a bit of a beast at the mo, it grunts and snorts through the induction system (generous name for the ebay stainless filter, a wahing machine fitting and ali tube, could have gone for a proper cotton filter, but the were £5 more expensive) the elise is liberally covered in greasy soot too as it's parked too close behind....

I'm hoping for a few more ponies and a few more MPG. The exhaust might be leaking a bit, so I might need a bit of scaff to fill in for the middle box (Like the TSE Beemer!) also the down pipes have seen better days, but they haven't gone yet. (Anyway the 5 pot will need a custom manifold so I can wait...)

Once that is done I'm on the hunt for a 5 pot turbo lump out of a Quattro...

I'm also researching Limited slip diffs, the auto box's has LSD as standard but I dunno if it'll fit.

TTFN
Rich

gdr · Post by **gdr** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:44 pm

The MS ECU is powered from a switched ignition 12V source. When ignition off the fuel pump relay should drop out. Are you using the relay board?
Looking good though, steady progress.

Post by **Shug** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:46 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:: The exhaust might be leaking a bit, so I might need a bit of scaff to fill in for the middle box (Like the TSE Beemer!)

TSE Beemer was a bedpost

I sh*t thee not

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:56 pm

Bedpost, check, I'll see what I can find...

The MS should be dropping out... But its not. I think (I can't be sure) that its either the wideband controller (but I thought I had wired that through the main relay?!?!) or more likely the aftermarket immobiliser... No relay board. I don't really understand how its staying live. It shouldn't be... I'l probably going to wire in a proper chav ignition switch on the dash

robin · Post by **robin** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:59 pm

Rich,

You should probably draw a wiring diagram sometime soon ... it's hard to fix remotely otherwise

You shouldn't need anything fancy - chances are you've got a relay that once latched is feeding battery live back into the ignition circuit. You just need to make sure that the control to the relay is properly switched off when the ignition goes off. Like I say, without a wiring diagram it's hard to know for sure which relay is wrong.

Cheers,
Robin

gdr · Post by **gdr** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:03 pm

Vaguely remember mine occasionally running on too come to think of it - could just be excess fuel swimming around in system, not as if its injecting only on the induction stroke. Assume when ignition off all the LEDs go out?

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:09 pm

Would probably help yes!

In theory its simple, it only interfaces with the car through the fuel pump relay socket. +12V permanent live, +12V switched and the fuel pump feed. No where else. It is literally plugged in to the cars socket. Tahts what is so confusing. Once it is turned off it stumbles but keeps running, I'm thinking that the immobiliser is trying to be helpful. Its triggered by a tag on the keyring, then seems to stay active for a while. Don't really understand it. Might have to rip it out...

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:10 pm

No the MS is definatly still live and firing, at one point it ran on until I pulled the fuel pump wire. The main relay is latching as robin says but I can't figure out why...

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:50 am

Also I can't get the idle below 1500... I think that it might be the servo inlet pipe thing. Now the CIS airflow meter is out the way its grunting and snorting through the throttle, sounds ace!

But as there is no restriction in the inlet now I think its going to need a restriction in the pipe to drag idle down to 900.

The idle screw seems to make no difference.

I have also changed a bias resistor for the CLT as its not working properly, it seems ok from stone cold but once hot it goes off the scale, this means that warm starts are impossible as the MS thinks the sensor is broken as its out of limits. Hopefully this will sort it!

Just need to work out how to tune the bugger now!

Rich
Off to wake the neibours in a bit faction

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 11:11 am

Wiring diagram called for ... just draw it on a piece of paper and email me a hi-res photograph to robin shift-quote iddon dot no-ip dot com

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 12:09 pm

Nice one cheers Robin. Problem will be tracing the immobilizer but I'll do my best!

I rackon I owe a few beers for the help I've had on here!

Rich

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 1:59 pm

Rich the LC1 should not power anything
if its any help i have a excell program for callculating pw fp afr
it will show the effects or required fp /pw to get to a target afr however you will require a now afr
ie afr you have now / pw you have now/afr you want then it will calculate the pw you require
if its helpfull send me a u2u with a e mail addy
bob

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 5:18 pm

Rich,

Don't worry about what the original wiring did - just show us what you have added - the original fuel pump relay will be controlled by the ignition live (and perhaps some other stuff that will be gated by ignition live) for sure.

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:57 pm

No the original ignition was controlled by the "Transistor Ignition unit" (This is the 80's afterall!) god know what it does... All I know about it is I can't get it out as the screws are siezed...

The only interface with the car is thorugh the fuel pump relay socket, I shoved spade connectors in as a tempoary measure, one that is likely to be come permanent...!

I'll draw it out...