The Shugmobile Conversion Thread

Post by **Shug** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 12:26 pm

Oh cockforsters, once more....

Just heard from Karl at Emerald. He got the ECU this morning and immediately put it on the bench. He ran through the immobiliser re-set and arming process and it works perfectly for him.

It's back in the post and I should have it back tomorrow - bloody excellent service from Emerald, really decent to work with.

I will try the whole re-set process from complete deactivation, to full integration again - then I'll have to think about other things (if it does what it should)

My memory is getting pretty hazy in my old age, so I'm not sure if the ECU was ever set to totally disregard the cam position sensor (although the injection was set to batch fire) Also, while I checked the wiring to the cam position sensor, I didn't check that the sensor itself was operating as expected. So, finger may point at that next....

That phone call may yet materialise, Robin

GregR · Post by **GregR** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:19 pm

what a PITA. I'd have resorted to kicking the thing by now - good skillz on the restraint front

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:20 pm

GregR wrote:what a PITA. I'd have resorted to kicking the thing by now - good skillz on the restraint front

Hambo does the heavy work

Post by **Shug** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:23 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:
GregR wrote:what a PITA. I'd have resorted to kicking the thing by now - good skillz on the restraint front
Hambo does the heavy work

Nah, his random acts of violence are concentrated purely on getting f**king hub nuts off

Way too calm, the rest of the time

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:26 pm

Did they come off in the end? If so how?

One of my possibilities is changing the driveshafts if the seal surface is fecked, don't fancy this at all

Post by **Shug** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:44 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Did they come off in the end? If so how?

One of my possibilities is changing the driveshafts if the seal surface is fecked, don't fancy this at all

In the end (having tried the inch-drive stuff and heating with the welding plant) he had to drill the edge and split the fscker with a chisel!

Driveshafts themselves are a piece of piss, as long as you are confident enough to go postal on that nut... Bear in mind, the other one came off fine - it's just that this one had been open to the elements (missing a wheel centre cap and haven't been bothered to replace it)

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:46 pm

Shug wrote: it's just that this one had been open to the elements (missing a wheel centre cap and haven't been bothered to replace it)

That should learn you, but it won't will it....

Post by **Shug** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:47 pm

Meh... Hambo's got a Rover one kicking about - thought that would make the appropriate ironic statement

robin · Post by **robin** » Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:41 pm

Shug wrote:
That phone call may yet materialise, Robin

Give me a bell when it arrives if it doesn't just work - I might be able to swing over and take a wee look at it - sometimes talking it through leads you to the obvious conclusion ...

It might also be worth asking Karl what outward indication there is from the ECU that immobilisation is active (I know there is the thing in the PC s/w, but I wonder what signals change state as a result of ECU immobilisation).

Cheers,
Robin

Sanjøy · Post by **Sanjøy** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:11 am

You could send the K off for chroming while you wait on the ECU like the caterham in the US on DSE.

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:17 am

Sanjoy wrote:You could send the K off for chroming while you wait on the ECU like the caterham in the US on DSE.

Now that would be really gay...

anyone know where you can get it done localy?

Post by **Shug** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:46 am

robin wrote:
Shug wrote:
That phone call may yet materialise, Robin
Give me a bell when it arrives if it doesn't just work - I might be able to swing over and take a wee look at it - sometimes talking it through leads you to the obvious conclusion ...

It might also be worth asking Karl what outward indication there is from the ECU that immobilisation is active (I know there is the thing in the PC s/w, but I wonder what signals change state as a result of ECU immobilisation).

Cheers,
Robin

Not sure about the ECU immobiliser indicators.... As I understand it, it would only be available to the serial port, as the only thing it does is let the ECU switch on the injectors, therefore there's nothing in the car it needs to send a signal to on deactivation.

Interestingly, Karl was of the opinion that the ECU immobilisation is only really of use in a Caterham install, as the Elise immobiliser isolates the fuel pump and starter solenoid.

Fingers crossed it will be okay after a complete re-set - I'll be trying it tonight....

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:01 pm

Shug, how much was the engine again?

Post by **Shug** » Mon May 01, 2006 9:48 am

550 notes...

Right - received the Emerald back and there is still the problem. Was chatting to Lawrence on Saturday and he mentioned that the MFRU is possibly different on the VVC engine. Rather nievely, I thought they were all the same. Possible cause? I'm gonna try and get a hold of Karl ASAP and find out (I take it they will be shut today though...)

robin · Post by **robin** » Mon May 01, 2006 11:35 am

Shug wrote:550 notes...

Right - received the Emerald back and there is still the problem. Was chatting to Lawrence on Saturday and he mentioned that the MFRU is possibly different on the VVC engine. Rather nievely, I thought they were all the same. Possible cause? I'm gonna try and get a hold of Karl ASAP and find out (I take it they will be shut today though...)

According to the parts manual (which knows about 111s) the MFRU is the same part on all cars. The loom may of course be different in some subtle respect.

The MFRU contains relays for:

Start Relay (enables cranking)
Fuel Pump Relay (enables fuel pump)
"Main" Relay (basically most of the current that is used for the MEMS, sensors, injectors, ignition).
Lambda Heater Relay (duh).

So of these you know #1 and #2 deffo do the right thing - it cranks and the fuel pump runs now and then. #4, who cares, it won't matter right now, but in any case you can easily test it by disconnecting the lambda connector and checking for +12v on pin 4 - pin 3 is black and will be ground. I think pin 4 will be Blue and Red (UR) - cannot remember what colour U is ... pins 1 and 2 go to the MEMS.

#3 Will provide +12v to one side of each coil pack plus to each fuel injector. When the ECU isn't trying to drive these signals, the other side will also appear at +12v (there is no voltage drop across the coils because there is no current flowing through them).

I think you have already confirmed that each coil & injector is receiving +12v?

So I don't think the MFRU can be the problem.

I would also check that the TPS sees +5v (IIRC) on pin 3 (pink and black, maybe?).

Cheers,
Robin