Engine cuts out when the temp....THINK ITS THE FUEL PUMP

ABZ-Elise · Post by **ABZ-Elise** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:37 am

Was at knockhill this sunday which the car came back from in one peice. The only problem which stopped it from going out in the last half hour for a few more laps was it started cutting out ever time the temp went over 90. I still managed to drive it most of the way home. I was fine on the dualer as long as I was doing 70mph the temp would sit at 87-88, if I went above or below 70mph the temp would rise above 90 and the engine would cut out. Had to stop a few times in Dundee to let it cool down below 80 before it would start again. Its almost like its not getting fuel but I don't think thats the case. The oil and water levels are all fine.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

What should the temp be at on a motorway run?

Kev.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:20 pm

Temps depend on alot of things, cutting out does not sound good. I would start with changing the Temp Senders, Blue is for the Gauge and Brown is for the ECU.

Very odd...

tenkfeet · Post by **tenkfeet** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:34 pm

Have you tried unplugging the brown sensor and ecu and cleaning up the electrical plugs .

If a sensor shorts does it switch of the ECU ? Wiggle on the wiring sounds like something is breaking down.

ABZ-Elise · Post by **ABZ-Elise** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:41 pm

I havn't tried anything yet, but I'll go have a nosey about the wiring and go and buy some new sensors.

Matelotman · Post by **Matelotman** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:22 pm

I constantly get 84-86 on Motorway

BiggestNizzy · Post by **BiggestNizzy** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:29 pm

tenkfeet wrote:Have you tried unplugging the brown sensor and ecu and cleaning up the electrical plugs .

Why does the ECU have to measure the amount of brown in the engine ?

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:12 pm

Special Rover measure for how fcuked it is. When the water goes brown its time for a warranty claim or a big fat bill....

robin · Post by **robin** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:43 pm

What is the indicated temperature when the fan cuts in?

Your sig says standard, so I assume the ECU is standard S1 MEMS.

Cutting out is bad news, usually caused by electrical gremlin of some sort.

If your fan is perhaps seized then whenever the ECU tries to turn it on, it might cause enough of a voltage dip to trip out the ECU.

I would check for earth straps front and back, ECU earthing post and perhaps the MFRU (it's the sort of thing that could cause such oddities ...).

Cheers,
Robin

ABZ-Elise · Post by **ABZ-Elise** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:54 pm

robin wrote:What is the indicated temperature when the fan cuts in?

Your sig says standard, so I assume the ECU is standard S1 MEMS.

Cutting out is bad news, usually caused by electrical gremlin of some sort.

If your fan is perhaps seized then whenever the ECU tries to turn it on, it might cause enough of a voltage dip to trip out the ECU.

I would check for earth straps front and back, ECU earthing post and perhaps the MFRU (it's the sort of thing that could cause such oddities ...).

Cheers,
Robin

The fan doesn't cut in. I thought the fun is suppose to cut in at 110 but my engine cuts out before that at 90. So don't really know if the fan works.

I'll try and change the temp sensors, check the earth points and anything else that I can see.

Only thing that gets me is that the temp is getting up to 90 on the dualer and thats taking it easy.

Kev

ABZ-Elise · Post by **ABZ-Elise** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 6:26 pm

Took the car out for a drive today, when I first started it the pump sounded fine. Then after the car had warmed up the car cut out. I left it a while then turned the key, the fuel pump made more of a moaning noise than a buzz. The car started but cut out soon after. I think it was just by chance it was cutting out at 90.

Is it hard to replace the pump? and what controls the pump turning on and off?

Kev

craigs135s · Post by **craigs135s** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:17 pm

Pm RO55 about the fuel pump. He had a few issues.

Cheers
C

r055 · Post by **r055** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:25 pm

The fuel pump can only be changed by dropping the fuel tank out of the bottom of the car - its a total pain in the ass!

i had a similar problem - however it was due to the fuel tank being full of sh1t! the sediment was collecting arround the pre-strainer (i think its called that) and stopping fuel getting into the secondary reservoir.
it cut out on the first day i had it then wouldnt start. i left it for a while and it ran fine for a few months before cutting out again.

It eventually gave up the ghost on a journey down to london - i kept filling up the tank every half an hour - this appeared to mix the tank up and allowed me to carry on for another while.

I got it recovered back up north from down in london and i had the tank dropped out, cleaned up and got a new fuel pump installed.

its been perfect every since... well the fuel problem has, but everything else has broken!

Fecking plastic cars!!

r055 · Post by **r055** » Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:27 pm

craigs135s wrote:Pm RO55 about the fuel pump. He had a few issues.

Cheers
C

beat me to it!

tut · Post by **tut** » Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:38 am

Actually Ross, the fuel pump can be changed from the top, I did mine when I upgraded, but you have to cut out a small semi circle of ally.

Kev

I am going to put an almost new pump on eBay if you need a replacement.

tut

robin · Post by **robin** » Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:22 am

But it might actually just be the inertia switch, the engine harness connectors, the immobiliser, the fuel pump fuse holder/fuse or the MFRU that's at fault. You need to be able to read the circuit diagrams or get someone who can on the case.

Cheers,
Robin