PRRT

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:05 pm

To all who have fitted PRRTs (rover ones)

did you put a restriction in the bypass loop?

does your temp sit steady at the thermostat temp?

what happens to the temp cycle if you leave it to idle?

Ta

Baggy

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:35 pm

Baggy wrote:To all who have fitted PRRTs (rover ones)

did you put a restriction in the bypass loop? NO

does your temp sit steady at the thermostat temp? YES

what happens to the temp cycle if you leave it to idle? Stable less likely to rise but i also have a water/oil cooler and that seems to take some temp soak (( oil temp rises slightly on gauge in traffic ect but water temp stays put ))and takes a long time before the water rises to put the fan on )

Ta

Baggy

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:36 pm

As far as I know the is no restriction on any loop on mine...

The temp fluctuates quite a bit, and can go up as high as 110deg after a period of spirited driving. It doesnt overheat when I am spanking it, only when I am coasting on the slow down lap or when I slow down going through towns. The temp stays up for around 3-4 mins then goes back to normal again and sits normal after that.

I did post up about it before but nobody could explain why this happened, putting it down to an air lock but no so sure.

Post by **Shug** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 10:54 pm

No restriction, the only time it really fluctuates at idle is if I've let the coolant level drop (as I have a wee leak)

One of the better things I did.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:09 pm

No restriction on mine either, moves about a bit but never gets that hot. 96 tops

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:33 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:No restriction on mine either, moves about a bit but never gets that hot. 96 tops

Might be a combination of the two then.. I always carry water with me for topping up just in case.

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:55 pm

Hmmmmm

Mine is behaving as if the water pump isn't up to the job. When up at temp at dual carriage speeds temp sits rock steady at 88 with no large fluctuations (which would have raised my suspicions of an air lock). when I slow down and the revs drop the temp creeps up until the fan cuts in (much quicker than previously).

I'm not worried about it cos all levels are steady & there are no temp spikes. I think the remote stat is doing it's job, I just wonder if the system could do with a restriction in the by pass to help force the coolant asround the coolant loop/rad when every thing is up to temp and thermostat is open.

fd · Post by fd » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:35 am

Unless there's a fault with the water pump it's more than capable . . .

Low revs cooling problems are almost always airlock in the rad . . . presuming everything else is ok . . .

You may need to bleed it a load of times with the relevant side of the car raised to get it properly bled . . . scunner . . .

Fd

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 1:18 am

Baggy wrote:Hmmmmm

Mine is behaving as if the water pump isn't up to the job. When up at temp at dual carriage speeds temp sits rock steady at 88 with no large fluctuations (which would have raised my suspicions of an air lock). when I slow down and the revs drop the temp creeps up until the fan cuts in (much quicker than previously).

I'm not worried about it cos all levels are steady & there are no temp spikes. I think the remote stat is doing it's job, I just wonder if the system could do with a restriction in the by pass to help force the coolant asround the coolant loop/rad when every thing is up to temp and thermostat is open.

Very similar to mine in every respect.... except you probly wash your occasionaly...

Let me know how you get on if you do fit one.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:56 am

Mine took an age to bleed properly. Leaky bleed screw did not help though...

It was warming up, I would bleed it fine, no problem, then next day I would do it again... Overnight as it cooled it was sucking air in through the leaky screw

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:51 am

.[/quote]
Very similar to mine in every respect.... except you probly wash your occasionaly...

Let me know how you get on if you do fit one.[/quote]

Mark Hutcheon fitted it for me last week...and as I said it's fine... I might try bleeding it a bit further like FD said.

Carlo (on SELOC) who's method Mark used. recons he puts a aluminium disc with a 2mm dia hole drilled in it in the bypass loop.......seems a bit extreme...

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:21 am

PRRT works as it is. Dunno why you would restrict the bypass, it will just mean less flow in the short circuit. The short circuit is so short I can't see restricting it being any advantage.

As I see it the advantage is that you get flow around the block creating a mini cooling circuit without a rad. The thermostat therefore gets a decent idea of the block temp so opens at the right time, also as there is more water in the short circuit (And its moving) the cold water injection is not as much of a shock to the block.

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:09 pm

Yeah, I agree

Think it might be air.

Baggy · Post by **Baggy** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:20 am

ARSE!!!

Have bled the fookin thing heaps.

Front up on ramps...

Back up on ramps...

LHS way up in the air...

AARRRRRGH..

I'm assuming I'm doing this right???

Manual mentions pressurising the header tank.....does this make a difference?

Post by **Shug** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:36 am

Probably helps. Airline and a rubber glove, or a pressure brake bleeding kit.

Worth a shot.

Scottish Elises

PRRT

PRRT

Re: PRRT