Scottish Elises

I am getting a geo done after two years and 13k miles . Wont be tracking very much this year so it will be all road use and would like my tyres to last ( until I get new wheels) . My car understeers which is safe but a bit naf and to be honest I dont fancy over-steer on the road . Should I just go with standard settings or am I being a big girls blouse?

tenkfeet wrote:I am getting a geo done after two years and 13k miles . Wont be tracking very much this year so it will be all road use and would like my tyres to last ( until I get new wheels) . My car understeers which is safe but a bit naf and to be honest I dont fancy over-steer on the road . Should I just go with standard settings or am I being a big girls blouse?

Standard toe settings are fine, but remember that you need to weigh down the car with at least 1/2 tank fuel and two people sitting in it, or weights in the seats (or just you sitting in it one side and weights in the other).

Standard rear camber settings are fine.

For front camber you can comfortably run with more negative camber at the front and you really want the camber balanced side to side. On most S2's you struggle to get more than half a degree of negative camber when you remove all the camber shims. I would aim to juggle the shims you have about to achieve the maximum -ve camber at the front (but no more than -0.5 degrees for a road car) while keeping the camber balanced side to side - if you end with -0.25 degrees that'll be fine too.

Cheers,
Robin

robin wrote:

tenkfeet wrote:I am getting a geo done after two years and 13k miles . Wont be tracking very much this year so it will be all road use and would like my tyres to last ( until I get new wheels) . My car understeers which is safe but a bit naf and to be honest I dont fancy over-steer on the road . Should I just go with standard settings or am I being a big girls blouse?

Standard toe settings are fine, but remember that you need to weigh down the car with at least 1/2 tank fuel and two people sitting in it, or weights in the seats (or just you sitting in it one side and weights in the other).

Standard rear camber settings are fine.

For front camber you can comfortably run with more negative camber at the front and you really want the camber balanced side to side. On most S2's you struggle to get more than half a degree of negative camber when you remove all the camber shims. I would aim to juggle the shims you have about to achieve the maximum -ve camber at the front (but no more than -0.5 degrees for a road car) while keeping the camber balanced side to side - if you end with -0.25 degrees that'll be fine too.

Cheers,
Robin

Thanks Robin I will do that .

Took car to John at Pro-Grip today . He was excellent in fact really excellent , explained everything and reduced the front toe which was out. The front camber is a tadge over standard and there is a split of 22 minutes , rear camber is also over standard. He noticed the inside of the front tyres are wearing faster.

I took it for a run before so i could compare and its much better considering such a small adjustment. Steering is not so twitchy and feels more stable turning. The best 40 quid I have spent .

Out of interest 16 stone sitting on the sill had very little effect on the readings .

He also told me how to fix my Polo .A very enjoyable visit

tenkfeet wrote:Took car to John at Pro-Grip today . He was excellent in fact really excellent , explained everything and reduced the front toe which was out. The front camber is a tadge over standard and there is a split of 22 minutes , rear camber is also over standard. He noticed the inside of the front tyres are wearing faster.

I took it for a run before so i could compare and its much better considering such a small adjustment. Steering is not so twitchy and feels more stable turning. The best 40 quid I have spent .

Out of interest 16 stone sitting on the sill had very little effect on the readings .

He also told me how to fix my Polo .A very enjoyable visit

It's the toe that is affected by loading; if you set the toe unladen then it is in fact a little bit out when you're driving - it's not a big deal, but it can be significant. Of course camber changes too, but you're less likely to notice that.

By "split of 22 minutes" do you mean one side has 22 minutes more camber than the other? 22 minutes is 1/3 of a degree and certainly swapping camber shims around might have gotten a better match side-to-side, albeit with more or less camber at the end of it. However, the car feels right and more often than not that's what actually matters, so hoorah!

Cheers,
Rboin

Glad John's still doing the business. I've put all my cars through his door at least once and the Elise will be going in when it's fixed. He can get a little carried away with the chat at times

Robin ,

Yes I did mean more camber. Just looked at the figures again its only 11 minutes on the camber 22 on the caster as I misread them .

Its really interesting stuff . It would be good to be able to adjust them all and see how a car feels.

tenkfeet wrote:Robin,

Yes I did mean more camber. Just looked at the figures again its only 11 minutes on the camber 22 on the caster as I misread them .

Its really interesting stuff . It would be good to be able to adjust them all and see how a car feels.

You cannot get it perfectly right - 11 minutes is close enough

If it feels good leave it alone (or keep doing it!). Mostly it's about inspiring confidence in the handling of the car ... when it feels right, you're much happier to chuck it in and sort it out.

Cheers,
Robin

hi,

who / where is pro-grip, can you give me a number, website or seomtheing need to get a ful geo done

thanks


S333FEE Support Team

Progrip
Unit 8 Canal Bank Est, Canal Bank Ind Est,Seabegs Rd, Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire FK4 2BP
Tel: 01324 810111

top guy!

thanks