Changing front calipers

LY055SCO · Post by **LY055SCO** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:38 pm

Looking for tips or tricks changing front calipers.

My N/S/F caliper piston is shot so need to replace. Bought a pair off pistonheads and looking for some advice as to anything I should be thinking about when changing them. I've heard word of them being a nightmare...but no detail.

Hope you guys can help,
Scott.

steve_weegie · Post by **steve_weegie** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:44 pm

Nah, piece of cake to do... You're half way there if you're doing a brake disc swap anyway!

You may wish to upgrade to braided lines while you're in there, but thats a wee bit more work. Other than that, just make sure you bleed them inverted (nipple at highest point...) to get all the air out.

You'll need a torque wrench with a suitable hex key for putting the two mounting bolts back in, and some thread lock to secure them. Bolts will be to 45Nm

LY055SCO · Post by **LY055SCO** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:48 pm

yeh,

changing discs and pads too. cool.
about bleeding them inverted though, assume I'll have to bleed before I mount them in order to have the nipple at the top?

thanks for the advice so far

much appreciated.

Scott.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:50 pm

One of the pistons doesn't have a bleed at the top of it, so to get all the air out you need to connect the brake line then keep rotating it to get the air to the top by the bleed valve. Its a bit odd to describe but you will understand when its infront of you.

steve_weegie · Post by **steve_weegie** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:07 pm

Yup, bleed them while they're off the car.... If you haven't done the discs before, you may find that the countersunk screw that secures the disc to the hub is "welded" in place. Be prepared to attack it with an angle grinder or some sharp drill bits, and make sure that the stub is ground flush to the hub

LY055SCO · Post by **LY055SCO** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:18 pm

Cheers guys,

You've been a great help and a settler of nerves. Richard I think I know what you mean

Thanks again,
Scott.

cla5h · Post by **cla5h** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 3:44 pm

What's the likeliehood of torqued mounting bolt working loose if threadlock not used?

steve_weegie · Post by **steve_weegie** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:05 pm

It's not impossible, so I'd probably recommend that you get some threadlock on there........ But at least you'll have early warning signs like KLUNK VIBRATE CLUNK CLATTER SCREETCH before the caliper finally falls off

Like mastercard says... Properly threadlocked brakes = £2.50.... For everything else, there's A&E

/nasty barsteward faction/

cla5h · Post by **cla5h** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:14 pm

Better apply some then!

When changing the discs I did check the servicing notes, and threadlock was advised, but it specified a different type (strength) on the rears (for the sliding pin bolt) from that securing the front calipers, so I thought "bugger that."

Whats a good all-round one to use, and where stocks it.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:25 pm

Just use some...

Halfords sell some, basically you have threadlock and studlock, studlock is stronger for stuff that definatly does not want to come out, threadlock for everything else.

TBH I use loctite I stole from the RAF, dunno what it is but it works

mac · Post by **mac** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:55 pm

The threadlock is also there to prevent bi-metalic corrosion.

It's not worth having to remove the whole hub unit and go visit the local machine shop for what is a couple of quids worth of goo.

<ac

cla5h · Post by **cla5h** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:00 pm

Vielen dank - I'll try and get some tonight.

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:32 pm

LY055SCO wrote:yeh,

changing discs and pads too. cool.
about bleeding them inverted though, assume I'll have to bleed before I mount them in order to have the nipple at the top?

thanks for the advice so far
much appreciated.

Scott.

You've got the offer of having me do it for you.... I am in Glenrothes.. back home on Wednesday.

Cisco · Post by **Cisco** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:07 am

Hi,

The Loctite product you need for this application is Loctite #243. This is good for most jobs on the car however where high strength is required on joints which will not normally be removed such as stud into engine casing etc.. Loctite #2701 AKA #270 should be used.

FWIW when Lotus or any other WSM indicates threadlock it is not a recomendation. It's an instruction

Take care,

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 9:53 am

Cisco wrote:Hi,

The Loctite product you need for this application is Loctite #243. This is good for most jobs on the car however where high strength is required on joints which will not normally be removed such as stud into engine casing etc.. Loctite #2701 AKA #270 should be used.

FWIW when Lotus or any other WSM indicates threadlock it is not a recomendation. It's an instruction

Take care,

got all the right threadlock stuff / torque setting etc...

Scottish Elises

Changing front calipers

Changing front calipers

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