Scottish Elises

I have a S2 with standard K series engine and standard exhaust. 23K miles and all very clean. Runs very well, but when accelarating resonably hard through 3500 - 4500 revs the engine oftens gives a minor falter. It is the same sort of feeling as if you are trying to pull off in too low a gear, but this is happening when I am in 2nd or 3rd, and giving it bit of a thrash. It is a bit uncomfortable doing an overtake and the engine loses power albeit only very momentarily.

It does not feel like clutch as there is no increase in revs or evidence that there is any slipping - it is more like the engine being starved of fuel (or flooded ?). Also, it is intermittent, and sometimes I get clean acceleration right through the rev band to around 5,500 (red line is at 6,000 on K series).

Anyone any theories ? Car just recently been through full service so air filter/spark plugs all new, and when I think back this was happening before the service. I just put it down to me being trying to accelarate in too low a gear, but no longer convinced this is the case.

Misfire?

Check all the spark plugs for water in the tops, consistant nose colour and make sure all the plug leads are ok. Dead/dying coil pack perhaps?

Don't know enough about S2 K's and how they differ, do you have a dizzy?

S2s are all coil packs on the engine top. Might be the first signs of one on the way out. Pretty sure you can rev past six on the standard K, given that peak power is at 6.5K, redline is 7, is it not?

Check everything in the ignition system (plugs, connectors, etc) before thinking the worst.

Shug wrote:S2s are all coil packs on the engine top. Might be the first signs of one on the way out. Pretty sure you can rev past six on the standard K, given that peak power is at 6.5K, redline is 7, is it not?

Check everything in the ignition system (plugs, connectors, etc) before thinking the worst.

You are probably correct with red line at 7K - being fairly new to the elise I probably back off too soon as a result of (a) not wanting to blow up and (b) panic that I won't get round next bend.

But will check out all the connections. Unlikley to be water as car garaged and haven't been caught out in downpour for a few weeks. But will administer WD40 to anything that looks exposed.

Had these symptoms twice on my coil pack K... First was the HT lead insulation breaking down... Second was a plug well full of water....

Set of 2 rover leads is only about 20 bucks

Had this problem with mine the now, didnt turn out to be the coilpack. Change HT leads and plugs are pretty cheap, I got them for about 15 quid and leads where about 30. Change these first if still got problem may be coilpack. Mines is the double pack which is about 100 if its just a single about 40-50

Not leads if its plug top coils, no leads and no separate coils

All the EU3 engines have the twin plug top coil design, where you have a coil pack that sits directly over a plug and an HT lead that connects it to its secondary cyl. Not like the vag and other engines that have a single coil per plug and no HT lead to speak off.

steve_weegie wrote:All the EU3 engines have the twin plug top coil design, where you have a coil pack that sits directly over a plug and an HT lead that connects it to its secondary cyl. Not like the vag and other engines that have a single coil per plug and no HT lead to speak off.

Cheers Steve - a few questions.

How do I know if I have an EU3 engine ?

Do I need to go to Murrays to get spare leads or can I get them (cheaper) from a Rover stockist - do they exists any more ?

And are they easy to fit ? I have not had the engine cover off yet - what is access like ? Is it better to take to Ali, or will it be pretty obvious how to do it ? I have some mechanical ability - at the very least I know my limitations...

All rover S2's have EU3 engines, so you'll have the 2 coil pack arrangement. Pretty much everything is stock rover so you'll be able to source parts from any rover dealer, rather than the MMC parts dept. I use machargs in glasgow for my stuff & i know they are happy to post bits out too.

Access to the leads is a piece of cake - 3 x 8mm bolts will remove the top plastic cover that hides all the HT gubbins... From there, it's just a case of pulling the old leads out from the coil pack and plugging the new ones in

FYI: Rover part number for a set of 2 leads is NGC000040

Well my engine had 4 leads that where replaced and 4 spark plugs? I got them from Ali and got them fitted. There are also aftermarket leads but Ali said he would recommend putting in the rover ones as found they were better This is coilpack here I got mixed up the cheaper one is for the standard K series engine the more expensive one was one I would have needed for the VVC engine.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.ph ... cts_id=282

Leads can be found here

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.ph ... cts_id=509

I used this site for sensor and gaskets. Order the sensor in morning and was there the next morning

s29ttc wrote:Well my engine had 4 leads that where replaced and 4 spark plugs?

Yup, that will be the EU2 VVC arrangement, where the coil packs are mounted on the block, rather than the cyl head

See all too technical for me, I am an amateur at this stuff haha I was sitting thinking I am sure I had 4 new leads haha

steve_weegie wrote:

s29ttc wrote:Well my engine had 4 leads that where replaced and 4 spark plugs?

Yup, that will be the EU2 VVC arrangement, where the coil packs are mounted on the block, rather than the cyl head

Nice one

took of engine cover and disconnected HT leads. Ends were corroded and green Bit of sandpaper and scoosh of WD40 and all seems well. Not had it out for full throttle run yet, but on the short runs the engine was 100% smooth

Didn't go for the Coils on ebay as they were VVT, and after a bit of digging I have found out mine is not a VVT. Didn't know if the HT leads are the same, but problem seems to be cured in any event.

IOU a beer....