Scottish Elises

Time to change me cars fluids, oil, coolant and brake fluid. I've got a new oil filter needing fitted too that's just rattling about in my boot sctraching my front number.

For the oil, am I just as well going to somewhere like QuikFit (flame-suit engaged), I'm sure I heard that an oil change from them wasn't much more than the cost of the oil it's self? Besides, if I did this my self I've got the old oil to think about gettin rid of, neighbours garden?? Still... I'm increasingly reluctant these days to let the car get touched by anyone where the phrase 'you get what you pay for' might apply in a negative way.

Coolant, plan on doing this when I change my (suspected) broken heater matrix. Straight forward enuff surely? (Really I have no idea tho!?). But then is it like the oil, just as well gettin a cheapy garage to do there fore avoiding killing the neighbours hedge? (I'm gonna stick with the green toxic stuff from local Rover dealer).

Brake Fluid a doddle with an ezi-bleed kit according to anyone on seloc. Do I trust myself changing something that important? Do I have to answer my own questions?

Wot you think, stop worrying about it an get stuck in?

scott

Aye, get on with it.

Brake fluid is ok as long as you don't introduce air and don't suspect any in the system. Watch out for stiff nipples!

I always pay someone to change the oil, as you say it's cheap and no disposal probs.

Rich

Scottd wrote:Time to change me cars fluids, oil, coolant and brake fluid. I've got a new oil filter needing fitted too that's just rattling about in my boot sctraching my front number.

For the oil, am I just as well going to somewhere like QuikFit (flame-suit engaged), I'm sure I heard that an oil change from them wasn't much more than the cost of the oil it's self? Besides, if I did this my self I've got the old oil to think about gettin rid of, neighbours garden?? Still... I'm increasingly reluctant these days to let the car get touched by anyone where the phrase 'you get what you pay for' might apply in a negative way.

Coolant, plan on doing this when I change my (suspected) broken heater matrix. Straight forward enuff surely? (Really I have no idea tho!?). But then is it like the oil, just as well gettin a cheapy garage to do there fore avoiding killing the neighbours hedge? (I'm gonna stick with the green toxic stuff from local Rover dealer).

Brake Fluid a doddle with an ezi-bleed kit according to anyone on seloc. Do I trust myself changing something that important? Do I have to answer my own questions?

Wot you think, stop worrying about it an get stuck in?

scott

Dont touch the coolant side unless you have a pump to prime the system. I have heard several nightmare stories of heads going pop after coolant changes/leaks.

Oil change no problem. I have an extraction pump so you dont have to take out the sump plug. If you buy the filter and the oil, pop down and I'll do it for you. Best not to go near kwick fit, they dont know nuffin about safe jacking points.

Not to keen on messing with the brakes, sometimes the nipples can shear and then its a pain in the ear to get them out. I have the extractors but no spare nipples... (cue the smutty comments..)

Coolant level running temp etc all perfect but it's 2 year change is about over due so feel I should get it done!? Best just taking it to local garage for that then?

Might have a wee run thro to Glenrothes some week-end then for that oil change

Brake fluid another local garage job then? Talking about nipples, one of mine is at about a 30 degree angle, i.e. almost sheered Plus the skinny metal pipe that runs away from it is flattened slightly. Been meaning to ask for ages if these bits are available to buy seperately, and if so where from?

Cheers

Scott

Scottd wrote: Brake fluid another local garage job then? Talking about nipples, one of mine is at about a 30 degree angle, i.e. almost sheered Plus the skinny metal pipe that runs away from it is flattened slightly. Been meaning to ask for ages if these bits are available to buy seperately, and if so where from?

Erm... This sounds bad....

The nipple is fine but will need extracting (PITA, but should be ok) needs unscrewing to leak. However, the only skinny tube I can think of is the one between the sides of the front caliper.... This is potentially really bad as IIRC there are no parts avaialbe for the calipers, bar seals, might need a new caliper (Or 2...) Pics?

Or I'm talking through my hat (Happens quite a bit )

Rich

John Reid wrote:

Scottd wrote:Time to change me cars fluids, oil, coolant and brake fluid. I've got a new oil filter needing fitted too that's just rattling about in my boot sctraching my front number.

For the oil, am I just as well going to somewhere like QuikFit (flame-suit engaged), I'm sure I heard that an oil change from them wasn't much more than the cost of the oil it's self? Besides, if I did this my self I've got the old oil to think about gettin rid of, neighbours garden?? Still... I'm increasingly reluctant these days to let the car get touched by anyone where the phrase 'you get what you pay for' might apply in a negative way.

Coolant, plan on doing this when I change my (suspected) broken heater matrix. Straight forward enuff surely? (Really I have no idea tho!?). But then is it like the oil, just as well gettin a cheapy garage to do there fore avoiding killing the neighbours hedge? (I'm gonna stick with the green toxic stuff from local Rover dealer).

Brake Fluid a doddle with an ezi-bleed kit according to anyone on seloc. Do I trust myself changing something that important? Do I have to answer my own questions?

Wot you think, stop worrying about it an get stuck in?

scott

Dont touch the coolant side unless you have a pump to prime the system. I have heard several nightmare stories of heads going pop after coolant changes/leaks.

Oil change no problem. I have an extraction pump so you dont have to take out the sump plug. If you buy the filter and the oil, pop down and I'll do it for you. Best not to go near kwick fit, they dont know nuffin about safe jacking points.

Not to keen on messing with the brakes, sometimes the nipples can shear and then its a pain in the ear to get them out. I have the extractors but no spare nipples... (cue the smutty comments..)

Yep dont seem to have access many spare nipples these days o well back under the stone i suppose

Neilp

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:

Scottd wrote: Brake fluid another local garage job then? Talking about nipples, one of mine is at about a 30 degree angle, i.e. almost sheered Plus the skinny metal pipe that runs away from it is flattened slightly. Been meaning to ask for ages if these bits are available to buy seperately, and if so where from?

Erm... This sounds bad....

The nipple is fine but will need extracting (PITA, but should be ok) needs unscrewing to leak. However, the only skinny tube I can think of is the one between the sides of the front caliper.... This is potentially really bad as IIRC there are no parts avaialbe for the calipers, bar seals, might need a new caliper (Or 2...) Pics?

Or I'm talking through my hat (Happens quite a bit )

Rich

The brake intorconector pipe may not be a prefab part, you may be able to get a good "old school" garage to make up a new bit for you. And by old school, I mean a garage that actualy fixes things rather than just changes bits out.

Recomend getting in touch with Fife auto centre in Glenrothes the have been really good with me and shouldnt have any problems making up a bit if it is possible to do so.

Scottd wrote:Coolant level running temp etc all perfect but it's 2 year change is about over due so feel I should get it done!? Best just taking it to local garage for that then?

Might have a wee run thro to Glenrothes some week-end then for that oil change

Brake fluid another local garage job then? Talking about nipples, one of mine is at about a 30 degree angle, i.e. almost sheered Plus the skinny metal pipe that runs away from it is flattened slightly. Been meaning to ask for ages if these bits are available to buy seperately, and if so where from?

Cheers

Scott

As long as your car hasnt been lowered, its a bugger to get the jack under mine now, have to mess around with wooden blocks under the wheels to get the clearance.

have a bit of worktop and a block of hardwood. Hardly messing around
My halfrauds jack is about 130-135mm with the saddle removed, ride height is 120/110.

Scottd wrote:Coolant level running temp etc all perfect but it's 2 year change is about over due so feel I should get it done!? Best just taking it to local garage for that then?

Might have a wee run thro to Glenrothes some week-end then for that oil change

Brake fluid another local garage job then? Talking about nipples, one of mine is at about a 30 degree angle, i.e. almost sheered Plus the skinny metal pipe that runs away from it is flattened slightly. Been meaning to ask for ages if these bits are available to buy seperately, and if so where from?

Cheers

Scott

I am home after the 19th, give me a shout.

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Aye, get on with it.

Brake fluid is ok as long as you don't introduce air and don't suspect any in the system. Watch out for stiff nipples!

I always pay someone to change the oil, as you say it's cheap and no disposal probs.

Rich

So predictable that I'm not going to mention stiff nipples...

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:have a bit of worktop and a block of hardwood. Hardly messing around
My halfrauds jack is about 130-135mm with the saddle removed, ride height is 120/110.

What you need is the cheapo jack from machine mart. £30 and the saddle height is 110mm

simon wrote:

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:have a bit of worktop and a block of hardwood. Hardly messing around
My halfrauds jack is about 130-135mm with the saddle removed, ride height is 120/110.

What you need is the cheapo jack from machine mart. £30 and the saddle height is 110mm

two old blocks of wood found in a skip work for me, just check there are no nails in them...

YHM

Coolant not a problem if you don't mind taking your time. Disconnect the return line to the header tank, and turn on the engine - it'll slowly drain the coolant (obviously remove the undertray and angle the disconnected hose right...). Keep topping up the system with a garden hose until the returns are clean(ish), then add your new coolant while continuing to drain out the clean water until the level is back down to the correct mark.

You never introduce any air so you don't have to fanny about with trying to bleed the system. Especially if you have an early S1 where the bleed point isn't the highest point of the system

By the way, I found that Halfords coolant (blue) runs a constant 2 degrees hotter than the standard Lotus yellow stuff so best to stick with what you have