What's next........?
What's next........?
What's next on the upgrade path for me and my car???????
Can't afford an engine transplant but to date my car now has :-
Nitrons Dampers
Muts Nuts Alloy Bells
Pagids
Braided brake hoses
OZ Wheels
AO48 tyres
Motorsport adjustable roll bar (going to start fitting shortly)
Harness Bar & Harnesses
ITG Induction kit
PTP 165 head & alloy plenium
Sports cat
Janspeed supersports exhaust.
Short of throttle bodies, which would require purchase of an emerald on top of the dthtb cost, can anyone think of something I've missed or should consider next?
Cheers
Mac
Can't afford an engine transplant but to date my car now has :-
Nitrons Dampers
Muts Nuts Alloy Bells
Pagids
Braided brake hoses
OZ Wheels
AO48 tyres
Motorsport adjustable roll bar (going to start fitting shortly)
Harness Bar & Harnesses
ITG Induction kit
PTP 165 head & alloy plenium
Sports cat
Janspeed supersports exhaust.
Short of throttle bodies, which would require purchase of an emerald on top of the dthtb cost, can anyone think of something I've missed or should consider next?
Cheers
Mac
S2 Elise (cobalt blue with stripes) - toy spec
Caterham 7 - hillclimb spec
Yamaha Thundercat - 2 wheeled toy spec
Caterham 7 - hillclimb spec
Yamaha Thundercat - 2 wheeled toy spec
Derek,
It's an early S2 so has the C/R box fitted as standard. Don't think I would go UCR as it would be murder on the motorways.
Lawrence,
Not a bad idea, just a pity Andy doesn't come up here that often.
Gareth,
You KNOW your going to regret saying that on Saturday afternoon
Mac
It's an early S2 so has the C/R box fitted as standard. Don't think I would go UCR as it would be murder on the motorways.
Lawrence,
Not a bad idea, just a pity Andy doesn't come up here that often.
Gareth,
You KNOW your going to regret saying that on Saturday afternoon
Mac
S2 Elise (cobalt blue with stripes) - toy spec
Caterham 7 - hillclimb spec
Yamaha Thundercat - 2 wheeled toy spec
Caterham 7 - hillclimb spec
Yamaha Thundercat - 2 wheeled toy spec
I'd say keep your money. Take your brain out a bit and push it harder, brake later, and generally just try and drive it faster with what you've got.
I went thru all this when i had the Elise. But in the end i didn't want to spend a fortune on the car, as it doesn't make a whole lot of difference to a lap. So i replaced the important bits (as you've done) and got my head down and concentrated on driving it as quick as i possibly could. You get so much satisfaction from passing cars that are specced up to the hilt. Plus your on the ragged edge all the time so it puts a massive grin on your face when you get it right and get some good clear laps in.
I went thru all this when i had the Elise. But in the end i didn't want to spend a fortune on the car, as it doesn't make a whole lot of difference to a lap. So i replaced the important bits (as you've done) and got my head down and concentrated on driving it as quick as i possibly could. You get so much satisfaction from passing cars that are specced up to the hilt. Plus your on the ragged edge all the time so it puts a massive grin on your face when you get it right and get some good clear laps in.
Thats what i always used to think. But it all went to pot once the visor's down. There's loads of run off on track.
I got some good advice for my new *hobby* from a top racer who works at KH (you'll all know him so i'll keep his name to myself). One of the things is..... go round lap after lap (and taking duffus for example) brake later, and later, and later. Till you've found the point where your braking as late as you possibly can and still take the corner right. (might be at or after the 100m board!!) Then remember where that braking point is, and on the next lap brake at that point, but dont brake quite as hard and run the car in 1mph faster, then brake less and run it it 2mph faster and so on. Sounds insane, but this is how the fast guys get REALLY fast.
Also, you prob wont want to do this on your road car, dont lift the throttle when changing up. Just make sure your quick and positive with your shift and the car will prob only hit the limiter for a split sec, but saves a bit of time too.
As i've always said though. Its only a trackday so if you go out there and throw in a few 58sec laps......who'll notice???? Nobody. Then you'll just get held up on the next lap. This is the reason i sold the car and am skinning myself to go racing. In a race you'll get an official lap time and a result at the end of it.... so it's worth risking throwing it into the tyres for. Just drive as hard as you feel comfortable with, and try wee things to get quicker so you really enjoy the lap and it feels hooked up and fast.
I think your quick as it is. Maybe just need to have a little bit more of the manic edge and run it in a bit faster/ brake later and it'll all come good.
All just my opinion of course.
I got some good advice for my new *hobby* from a top racer who works at KH (you'll all know him so i'll keep his name to myself). One of the things is..... go round lap after lap (and taking duffus for example) brake later, and later, and later. Till you've found the point where your braking as late as you possibly can and still take the corner right. (might be at or after the 100m board!!) Then remember where that braking point is, and on the next lap brake at that point, but dont brake quite as hard and run the car in 1mph faster, then brake less and run it it 2mph faster and so on. Sounds insane, but this is how the fast guys get REALLY fast.
Also, you prob wont want to do this on your road car, dont lift the throttle when changing up. Just make sure your quick and positive with your shift and the car will prob only hit the limiter for a split sec, but saves a bit of time too.
As i've always said though. Its only a trackday so if you go out there and throw in a few 58sec laps......who'll notice???? Nobody. Then you'll just get held up on the next lap. This is the reason i sold the car and am skinning myself to go racing. In a race you'll get an official lap time and a result at the end of it.... so it's worth risking throwing it into the tyres for. Just drive as hard as you feel comfortable with, and try wee things to get quicker so you really enjoy the lap and it feels hooked up and fast.
I think your quick as it is. Maybe just need to have a little bit more of the manic edge and run it in a bit faster/ brake later and it'll all come good.
All just my opinion of course.
Don't do this in the elise - it will kill the clutch sooner than you think.gordon wrote: Also, you prob wont want to do this on your road car, dont lift the throttle when changing up. Just make sure your quick and positive with your shift and the car will prob only hit the limiter for a split sec, but saves a bit of time too.
Robin
I tried it once at Oulton Park after Malcolm suggested it (when he had had a few the night before). It's not for me and I'm normally on the limiter or just a few revs below before I change anyway.
Mac
Mac
S2 Elise (cobalt blue with stripes) - toy spec
Caterham 7 - hillclimb spec
Yamaha Thundercat - 2 wheeled toy spec
Caterham 7 - hillclimb spec
Yamaha Thundercat - 2 wheeled toy spec
I'm with Gordon here.... It's (slowly) dawning on me just how much time there is to be found through the driver. I liken it to a surgeon (stay with me here....)
As a surgeon, you can buy a good scalpel. You can footer till you've got the exact shape of handle and the curvature of the blade exactly as you want it. Does it make you a better surgeon?
The Elise is a tool - a very accurate tool (in comparison to 95% of road cars) and you can make it quantifiably better. But the one thing it does not do is drive itself. I've spent THOUSANDS on engine work and brakes and suspension, but it's learning to use them that's given me the laptimes. And I'm sooooo bloody far from finished learning.
So - wanna go quicker? Get round the fact that you *might* spade it (let's be honest, even if you do, it'll probably be fixable) and give it that extra 5% commitment from yourself. I know I'll be using what Gordon said above about braking points and progression the next time I'm on track.....

As a surgeon, you can buy a good scalpel. You can footer till you've got the exact shape of handle and the curvature of the blade exactly as you want it. Does it make you a better surgeon?
The Elise is a tool - a very accurate tool (in comparison to 95% of road cars) and you can make it quantifiably better. But the one thing it does not do is drive itself. I've spent THOUSANDS on engine work and brakes and suspension, but it's learning to use them that's given me the laptimes. And I'm sooooo bloody far from finished learning.
So - wanna go quicker? Get round the fact that you *might* spade it (let's be honest, even if you do, it'll probably be fixable) and give it that extra 5% commitment from yourself. I know I'll be using what Gordon said above about braking points and progression the next time I'm on track.....
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Re: What's next........?
I had great fun following you around for a few laps at Brunty's last track evening - I was feeling rather pleased with myself that I could keep up until I discovered you weren't even on 48s that night! Anyway, the following observations might be of interest - The straight line performance of your car seemed pretty close to the Exige, except towards the end of the long straight when I was in fourth, so your engine mods look like they are doing the biz. You were definitely a lot quicker than me through the chicane, but I was consistently catching you under braking, especially into the hairpin, so I guess you could gain some time by braking a bit later. Interestingly we were taking completely different lines into Duffas (you were turning in later), but we seemed to be arriving at MacIntyres the same distance apart, so I don't know which was best. Overall looks to me like car and driver are plenty quick enough alreadymac wrote:What's next on the upgrade path for me and my car???????
Can't afford an engine transplant but to date my car now has :-
Nitrons Dampers
Muts Nuts Alloy Bells
Pagids
Braided brake hoses
OZ Wheels
AO48 tyres
Motorsport adjustable roll bar (going to start fitting shortly)
Harness Bar & Harnesses
ITG Induction kit
PTP 165 head & alloy plenium
Sports cat
Janspeed supersports exhaust.
Short of throttle bodies, which would require purchase of an emerald on top of the dthtb cost, can anyone think of something I've missed or should consider next?
Cheers
Mac
Mark