K-Series - Removing\Replacing Driveshafts

[paulW]

So reading through the manual there is a specialist tool for extracting the driveshafts,
and even a specialist tool for putting the driveshafts back in without damaging the seals.

Does anyone have either of these specialist tools or a recommended alternative?

...currently a bit stumped on how to get it out without damaging anything.

Thanks.

[Shug]

Big f'kin hammer

No, a big screwdriver will do the job - just make sure you don't lean on the seals and you'll be fine. Can be pretty tight, as they are held in the diff with a spring clip, but they will come out.

Oh, and DON'T pull on the shaft itself or you'll pull out the tripod joint. You can pull on the outer part of the tripod though.

[fd]

usually two screwdrivers levering 180degrees opposite makes it much easier . . . kinda waggle them out . . . but in essence, brute force and ignorance will work, it is sometimes worthwhile getting replacement spring clips as I have seen them damaged when removed, and there is nothing you can do to stop this, depends on the machining inside the diff ad the exact profile of the springclip groove . . . it's no different to the joints on the caterham . . . oh and when you fit this new engine/box, I would also replace the diff seals . . . especially if you are changing the driveshafts . . .

Fd

[paulW]

. . . it's no different to the joints on the caterham . Fd

there is no spring clip holding my driveshafts in on the 7, perhaps there should be.

thanks for advice, will give it a go.

[jason]

. . . it's no different to the joints on the caterham . Fd

there is no spring clip holding my driveshafts in on the 7, perhaps there should be.

Nor mine - they just slid out the Tomato diff effortlessly. Only thing stopping them sliding all the way out was/is max hub-diff slope distance being less than shaft lengths.

[fd]

Only thing stopping them sliding all the way out was/is max hub-diff slope distance being less than shaft lengths.

Hmmmm, not so on the tango, no matter, driveshafts are always too long to just fall out

Fd

[robin]

You got that new engine yet?

Your car is an early one - the seals very likely won't be the same as the new box - so either fit new box+it's shafts or old box and it's shafts - if you want to preserve shafts but not box (cannot see why that would be, but just in case) then as Fd says you'll need to replace the 'B' seals in new box for 'A' seals like old box - the manual has pictures of the A/B shaft types so you should be able to work out which you have, which your new box has and take it from there ...

Cheers,
Robin

[paulW]

Engine gets uplifted tomorrow hopefully, and delivered on Friday. Thanks Robin.

Will fit new driveshafts and gearbox, but will definately check the seals just to be sure.

Nor mine - they just slid out the Tomato diff effortlessly. Only thing stopping them sliding all the way out was/is max hub-diff slope distance being less than shaft lengths.

ripping a wheel off and taking the end off the dedion tube was a very effective way of removing the driveshaft on the Caterham. not one I care to repeat though.

[paulW]

driveshaft.JPG

engine looks very tidy, with most things still attached, gearbox, alternator, starter motor, inlet plenum, throttle body, plus half of the coolant pipes and wiring harness.

Driveshafts have been split, so not sure if it is a simple case of regreasing and fitting new boots :-/

[fd]

driveshaft.JPG

engine looks very tidy, with most things still attached, gearbox, alternator, starter motor, inlet plenum, throttle body, plus half of the coolant pipes and wiring harness.

Driveshafts have been split, so not sure if it is a simple case of regreasing and fitting new boots :-/

Presuming you KNOW they are matching parts you need to get them immaculately clean and re-assemble, if you are in doubt I'd use your old ones with some new seals . .. driveshafts on the K install are pretty bomb proof . . . will probably save you a pair of rear wheel bearings too . . . which incidentally you would need to have loosened the hub bolt before taking the engine out else you will struggle to loosen them . . .

Fd

[paulW]

. . . which incidentally you would need to have loosened the hub bolt before taking the engine out else you will struggle to loosen them . . .
Fd

Good Call Thanks. (...now which thread is back to front again..offside? )((it was a daft size as well, 36mm??))

Both the driveshaft and the portion left in the diff have been covered and sealed to protect (obviously removed seal before taking photo).
If I clean out and regrease...any specific grease to use?

[fd]

. . . which incidentally you would need to have loosened the hub bolt before taking the engine out else you will struggle to loosen them . . .
Fd

Good Call Thanks. (...now which thread is back to front again..offside? )((it was a daft size as well, 36mm??))

Both the driveshaft and the portion left in the diff have been covered and sealed to protect (obviously removed seal before taking photo).
If I clean out and regrease...any specific grease to use?

Can't remember the threads, IIRC on the Elise they are both the same and conventional (the caterham isn't which may be what is confusing you), you can tell looking at the thread anyway . . . they can be a real bitch to loosen, myself and Lawrence broke a number of 1/2 inch drive breaker bars and sockets loosening them on my car and I had to buy a monster 3/4 drive and use a scaffold pole to shift them . . . if you get stuck you are welcome to borrow . . . you will probably also need someone in the car on the footbrake and the car on it's own wheels to stop the wheels turning, also you need to brace both ends of the socket you use to loosen them, if it gets difficult give me a call . . .

You need to use a molybdenum disulphide CV joint grease, easily available from halfords, it's black and very messy . . . ensure you read the manual for the amount of grease needed, too little is not good for obvious reasons, but too much can cause the bellows to be blown off the joints leading to equally bad problems . . .

Fd

[robin]

Disappointing that the drive shafts have been split - cannot see why that was necessary, other than maybe to ship them in a smaller crate and not being arsed to drain out the gearbox oil ...

At this point, I would probably refit the original shafts from your car with new seals.

Cheers,
Robin

[paulW]

Disappointing that the drive shafts have been split - cannot see why that was necessary, other than maybe to ship them in a smaller crate and not being arsed to drain out the gearbox oil ...

At this point, I would probably refit the original shafts from your car with new seals.

Cheers,
Robin

You need to use a molybdenum disulphide CV joint grease, easily available from halfords, it's black and very messy . . . ensure you read the manual for the amount of grease needed, too little is not good for obvious reasons, but too much can cause the bellows to be blown off the joints leading to equally bad problems . . .

Cool, will take the advice and use my driveshafts, and replace diff seals. so just need to identify my driveshafts and order the appropriate seals.

You might be right about gearbox not being drained, as i keeked in oil cap, took out the dipstick etc...dipstick is showing oil in the engine.. oil filter in place, so think there may well be oil in the sump too. thanks for warning...my parents have only just got the drive clean from the last time I dumped oil all over it.