DIY Engine Swap

[paulW]

Day 1

Late start, didn't get the car into the garage until after 3pm...

A few siezed bolts, that needed a little persuasion with Dom's favourite tool, but only a little one this time.

Hub bolts lossened ok, with an extension (jack handle), so that was a bit of a relief.

So after 4 hours, I've managed to get the rear clam off.

clam.JPG

My wee sister even helped out, in the photo you can see wee jars that contain the removed nuts and bolts, individually labelled, and cross-reference to each step of the service manual.

Hopefully Day 2, will have the engine out, and a list of all the parts and fixings I need ready to order up for next weekend.

[mwmackenzie]

What are you putting in??

[g1zmo26]

Good luck Paul

What's going in ?? Will keep watching to find out.

Stuart

[paulW]

nothing exciting i'm afraid, just a standard 1.8 k-series.

Current engine, is just a little tired, and after a recent head gasket failure, I've decided to refresh the engine with a low mileage one.

Still have the caterham for trackday fun, so the Elise is my sensible everyday car.

[g1zmo26]

nothing exciting i'm afraid, just a standard 1.8 k-series.

Current engine, is just a little tired, and after a recent head gasket failure, I've decided to refresh the engine with a low mileage one.

Still have the caterham for trackday fun, so the Elise is my sensible everyday car.

Still to get a pax in the not so sensible car.

Stuart

[paulW]

Day 2

Engine is out...now to start the shopping list of parts needed to refit the new one.

ENGINEO.JPG

[robin]

You may want to transplant the up-and-over cooling pipe from the old engine to new engine - the down-and-under pipe will work, but there is really piss all room between exhaust downpipe heatshield and the bulkhead heatshield and sooner or later you will wear through the heatshield or the pipe, depending on which is harder ... on the later cars they changed the profile of the bulkhead to accommodate the down-and-under pipe.

Also, you might want to braze (or whatever the right word for welding to alloy pipe is ) a bleed nipple into the up-and-over pipe to make bleeding a bit easier.

Cheers,
Robin

[paulW]

Thanks for advice, Robin.

I've got a spare over-the-top pipe, so might try and get a bleed nipple installed.

Got quite a few things to do, one of the engine mounts was completely shagged, one needed replacing and one looked completely new.

Heatshielding above the exhaust is passed its best, as it the heatshielding on the bulkhead.

Need to find some replacement fixing for attaching the wheel arch trims, stainless bolts into rawl nuts perhaps.

Replace the wee bobbins that hold the gear linkages to the cables.

Fit new narrowband lambda sensor.

Replace diff seals...although the driveshafts do look identical to the newer ones.

replace head to exhaust manifold bolts, and new gasket.

Probably change thermostat while I've got it out.

might need to work on some alternative fixings for the clam to door sills, one of these was a bit buggered on one side.

might even look into reinstating the boot release cable, while I have easier access.

good spit an polish inside as well, not too bad, but the rear clam was full of soil behind the wheel arches...

might try and find some foam to go round the neck of the fuel filler, as sure this was one of my clunks.


All in it wasn't too bad removing the engine, if it wasn't for the seized bolts.


Next weekend, will hopefully be getting the engine in place and running.

Weekend after that, get any remaining niggles sorted out, get the tracking done, and try and find somewhere that can pair the new ecu with my current immobiliser.

[hiscot]

up/over pipe is built with a bleed screw fitted as std ( highest point ) i changed to a lower pipe set up in order to fit a oil / water cooler, the bulk head profile was the same on the later car i removed it from but it does use a different connecting hose that enters the drivers sill and later cars a different ex heat shield although i used the early version

[paulW]

up/over pipe is built with a bleed screw fitted as std ( highest point )

hmm, mine doesn't at present...bleed screw on mine is on the metal pipe that goes under the inlet plenum.

Might be easier to get one with a bleed screw already fitted if available.

[hiscot]

i chopped mine up to reuse the bleed screw from the oil cooler , as its the best place for one being as high as poss
i do have a photo but its too large to go on here

[fd]

change the thermostat . . . really . . . it's a hellish job otherwise . . .

diff seals will have bedded into the old cv's if you don't replace them 50% they will leak . . .

the material to use for heatshielding is nimbus gII ( http://www.nimbusmotorsport.com/ProdSho ... &CATID=252 ) i am about to order a big chunk of it for my car, if you want to combine orders let me know . . .

Fd

[paulW]

change the thermostat . . . really . . . it's a hellish job otherwise . . .

diff seals will have bedded into the old cv's if you don't replace them 50% they will leak . . .

the material to use for heatshielding is nimbus gII ( http://www.nimbusmotorsport.com/ProdSho ... &CATID=252 ) i am about to order a big chunk of it for my car, if you want to combine orders let me know . . .

Fd

Sounds good, can collect from you at Stirling, and take a look at your install, and perhaps even get a template.

[paulW]

Anyone know if it is M5 bolts holding the rear clam on?

About to order some stainless ones, but forgot to measure them.

Does anyone know a good source for matching rawl nuts, Eliseparts are wanting £1.14 each, which is a bit steep.

Also looking for lower engine mount, gearbox engine mount, wee rubber bobbins that hold gear cables to linkages, head to manifold bolts and nuts, diff/driveshaft seals.

Gaskets, thermostat, hub nuts etc, I'll probably just order from Eliseparts.

Thanks.

[jj]

For Rawl nuts (the rubber ones) go to Fyfe and Mcgrowther, they are up near Henry Bros - I picked up half a dozen M5 Stainless nuts/bolts/washers, 6 M5 rawlnuts, and half a dozen M6 stainless nuts/bolts/washers on Saturday and the total cost was about £3. They sell them individually as well. Makes Eliseparts £1.14 EACH a little pricey.