And I think they are worse.
Fluid was black so at least it's now clear but there is a little more travel in the pedal.
I have the SBS pads to change to also but little concerned with the state of my disks.
Brakes going to need bled again or will firm pedal feel without travel come back?
Just bled the brakes.....
Did you remove the pads or press back the pistons? IF not then bleeding out the brakes is probably not going to clear out all the fluid in the pistons. Not that this would cause your sponginess. If you did move the pistons back then you will need to bed the brakes back in again briefly before you get a proper pedal feel again.
Most likely is you have allowed air back into the calipers through the bleed nipples (you can get air going in past the threads if you undo them too much).
I suggest bleeding with a non-return valve at the nipple in addition to the pressure bleader and don't open the nipples more than is required to get some fluid flowing. If you can get someone to pump the pedal then it's worth getting the pedal pumped at the end, opening the nipple for each down stroke and closing it for each up stroke.
But, I would change the pads at the same time - that way the pistons are pushed right back and so the fluid in them is expelled. If you can remove the front calipers you can raise them in the air a bit and also turn them upside down during the bleeding process which helps release any trapped air - *but* make sure you leave something between the pistons at all times otherwise you could over-extend them.
Cheers,
Robin
Most likely is you have allowed air back into the calipers through the bleed nipples (you can get air going in past the threads if you undo them too much).
I suggest bleeding with a non-return valve at the nipple in addition to the pressure bleader and don't open the nipples more than is required to get some fluid flowing. If you can get someone to pump the pedal then it's worth getting the pedal pumped at the end, opening the nipple for each down stroke and closing it for each up stroke.
But, I would change the pads at the same time - that way the pistons are pushed right back and so the fluid in them is expelled. If you can remove the front calipers you can raise them in the air a bit and also turn them upside down during the bleeding process which helps release any trapped air - *but* make sure you leave something between the pistons at all times otherwise you could over-extend them.
Cheers,
Robin
-
offshorematt
- Posts: 626
- Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 8:25 am
- Location: Aberdeen
I didn't arrive until you guys had finished the brakes Gareth but I thought you had been using the non return valve and pumping the pedal technique? If the brakes felt fine when you were sitting in the car pumping the pedal, I don't understand why they would degrade once the wheels were back on? Did you not check them again after we did the clutch? Don't worry, we'll do it again when we finally put your new pads on... 
Gareth,
so you changed the pads, did this improve the pedal feel? (the fact that the pistons were pushed and the fluid moved).
Did you remove the heavy ridge that was formed? other wise it takes a while for the pads to wear out that lip and meanwhile this contributes to a mush pedal feel.
If not, you should go back to the standard procedure to bleed the brakes: pumping the pedal and opening the bleed nipple. I works because when you press the pedal the bubbles get smaller and they are easier to move.
You'll waste a lot of fluid though but that's Ok.
As a reference, I also have one of those E-Z bleeders, but just use the old system of pumping the brake. Call me old fashioned.
Now, as for the shiny spots, if this is with the new pads, it's likely that the pads are tilted. Why? don't know. Does the piston inside look flat? is it tilted?
If yes, remove the caliper and see if there is any dirt in the base that would make it tilt.
There must be an easy explanation to this, as the pad is touching first on one edge.
Other than that, once the pad lays flat the pitted surface will wear out, don't worry.
Having see the state of your calipers I recommended (and still do) to remove them and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush, clean the seals and see if everything is in shape.
The only way is to give it a good look.
so you changed the pads, did this improve the pedal feel? (the fact that the pistons were pushed and the fluid moved).
Did you remove the heavy ridge that was formed? other wise it takes a while for the pads to wear out that lip and meanwhile this contributes to a mush pedal feel.
If not, you should go back to the standard procedure to bleed the brakes: pumping the pedal and opening the bleed nipple. I works because when you press the pedal the bubbles get smaller and they are easier to move.
You'll waste a lot of fluid though but that's Ok.
As a reference, I also have one of those E-Z bleeders, but just use the old system of pumping the brake. Call me old fashioned.
Now, as for the shiny spots, if this is with the new pads, it's likely that the pads are tilted. Why? don't know. Does the piston inside look flat? is it tilted?
If yes, remove the caliper and see if there is any dirt in the base that would make it tilt.
There must be an easy explanation to this, as the pad is touching first on one edge.
Other than that, once the pad lays flat the pitted surface will wear out, don't worry.
Having see the state of your calipers I recommended (and still do) to remove them and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush, clean the seals and see if everything is in shape.
The only way is to give it a good look.
My disks looked like that after rutuning from couple of weeks holiday, a good thrashing sorted them out.
When I changed my brake hoses for braided I had to turn the cliper over, loads of air came out, if you aren't getting any air after pushing the pistons back in (Make sure there is space in the resi or you'll get fluid everywhere!) and don't have a ridge on the disk then try it. Wheel off, pads out, 2 bolts (Cheesy allen bolts!) out, connect the easy bleed and turn them over. My pistons didn't move under easibleed pressure, but keep something between them (Block of wood?) just in case. The Caliper bolts are soft as sh*t and must be treated carefully. clean them out first with a bit of wire, and use a good allen socket. I had to tap mine home with a hammer. They will come out with a bang. Don't forget to re-torque them with some thread lock too.
Rich
(In need of a brake bleed too)
When I changed my brake hoses for braided I had to turn the cliper over, loads of air came out, if you aren't getting any air after pushing the pistons back in (Make sure there is space in the resi or you'll get fluid everywhere!) and don't have a ridge on the disk then try it. Wheel off, pads out, 2 bolts (Cheesy allen bolts!) out, connect the easy bleed and turn them over. My pistons didn't move under easibleed pressure, but keep something between them (Block of wood?) just in case. The Caliper bolts are soft as sh*t and must be treated carefully. clean them out first with a bit of wire, and use a good allen socket. I had to tap mine home with a hammer. They will come out with a bang. Don't forget to re-torque them with some thread lock too.
Rich
(In need of a brake bleed too)
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
