Electric turbo...?? wind up or not
- Victor Meldrew
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Electric turbo...?? wind up or not
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/electric-supercha ... dZViewItem
what do you think.
We at http://www.electronicturbosystems.com have invested 2 Years in to this system, It’s research has developed several major equations, The most paramount being that to simply generate more air into any given induction system is not enough, It must be a higher more dense volume of air than the engine naturally aspires ( Pass 100% volumetric efficiency) in order to generate BOOST.
The term “BOOSTâ€
what do you think.
We at http://www.electronicturbosystems.com have invested 2 Years in to this system, It’s research has developed several major equations, The most paramount being that to simply generate more air into any given induction system is not enough, It must be a higher more dense volume of air than the engine naturally aspires ( Pass 100% volumetric efficiency) in order to generate BOOST.
The term “BOOSTâ€
Well it moves... might as well make the most of it....
Theory is right - just how much power does it take to drive though? Bear in mind a belt-driven supercharger (same principle, just not using elastic-trickery) will sap up to 20% of the output of an engine to provide usable boost.
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
- Victor Meldrew
- Posts: 5725
- Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 1:01 pm
- Location: Unable to use location services. Please turn on your wifi....
Well in theory it wont take anything from the engine, just the battery. I dont know if it operates all the time the engine is running, possibly just when your on full throttle.Shug wrote:Theory is right - just how much power does it take to drive though? Bear in mind a belt-driven supercharger (same principle, just not using elastic-trickery) will sap up to 20% of the output of an engine to provide usable boost.
Which for you is probly the same thing.
Well it moves... might as well make the most of it....
Yeah - power was the incorrect word - I meant current! Must take a fair old shunt to compress air quick enough when the engine is sooking it in as hard as it can already....John Reid wrote:Well in theory it wont take anything from the engine, just the battery. I dont know if it operates all the time the engine is running, possibly just when your on full throttle.Shug wrote:Theory is right - just how much power does it take to drive though? Bear in mind a belt-driven supercharger (same principle, just not using elastic-trickery) will sap up to 20% of the output of an engine to provide usable boost.
Which for you is probly the same thing.
Aa for the old full throttle thing... Funnily enough, looking at the datalogs I'm running at the mo with the wideband, I need to spend more time at full throttle/high revs to map those sites - it's light on samples up there!
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Re: Electric turbo...?? wind up or not
It doesn't mention what the actual volume of air is, and the 40,000rpm figure is prenty meaningless unless you know how big the fan is and what pressure/retrictions are in the 'pipes'.John Reid wrote: In order to generate such a huge volume of air our system is designed to deliver up to 40,000 RPM (Instantly) No lag what so ever.
Also as has been noted on SELOC in the past, the 'turbo' is fitted after the air filter, so when the 'cheap Chinese bits of tin' get fed up spinning at 40,000 rpm, the next stop for them is the engine..
Also in the advert it says "Up To 20 + BHP icrease, Guaranteed!!!." What are they guaranteeing?
The electric supercharger has been around for years, but it requires extra batteries and will only run for a few seconds. Someone did the maths and the current draw is something ridiculous >100A. They are practical, simple and effective but only in very limited applications and for very short bursts. The extra batts on an Dodge Ram make no difference, but an extra pair of lead acids on your liz is a different matter.
The promises are nothing but hype, but decent units do exist in america. But they cost $$$.
I would not put ANYTHING unproven the wrong side of a filter, it's there for a reason and the flow would have to pass though it anyway. Fan efficiency could also be improved as the airflow could be controlled on the approach, a filter just buggers it up.
In short, forget it and spend the cash on engine upgrades.
My 2p
Rich
(Pastieland Faction)
The promises are nothing but hype, but decent units do exist in america. But they cost $$$.
I would not put ANYTHING unproven the wrong side of a filter, it's there for a reason and the flow would have to pass though it anyway. Fan efficiency could also be improved as the airflow could be controlled on the approach, a filter just buggers it up.
In short, forget it and spend the cash on engine upgrades.
My 2p
Rich
(Pastieland Faction)
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
Co-incidently I had just posted this on S_E.
The American Super eRam running at 1.7psi makes interesting reading, and you have to take note of all of the customer testimonials. Also there is much more tech info of how it operates and the relevant air flow figures etc.
http://www.electricsupercharger.com
tut
The American Super eRam running at 1.7psi makes interesting reading, and you have to take note of all of the customer testimonials. Also there is much more tech info of how it operates and the relevant air flow figures etc.
http://www.electricsupercharger.com
tut
Without a whole load of thermodynamics which I never really understood that well it is hard to calculate the current required at 12V to compress air to both a useful pressure and at a useful flow rate for an engine to benefit.
I can say that a 2.0 engine running at 8,000 rpm requires 8,000l/min or 480m^3/hour - and you're looking for a reasonable increase in pressure, say around 0.25-0.5 bar (and ignoring the resulting increase in temperature this will cause).
Fixed installation compressors in this range are weighing in at 50-100kg and require ~20kW (=27bhp). A lot of this weight is the electric motor and muckle steel plates for installation; obviously the metal work might be reduced but the motor is going to be big to use that sort of power.
And the power has to come from somewhere - in this case, the electricals system. 20kW at 12v is 1,600 amps. Hmm, you're alternator won't be supplying that and you may need to use many kg of copper and about 5 good batteries to provide and conduct that sort of current.
Even a brilliant design that was several times as efficient would still require all the current your car battery can deliver and would run it flat in minutes.
Cheers,
Robin
I can say that a 2.0 engine running at 8,000 rpm requires 8,000l/min or 480m^3/hour - and you're looking for a reasonable increase in pressure, say around 0.25-0.5 bar (and ignoring the resulting increase in temperature this will cause).
Fixed installation compressors in this range are weighing in at 50-100kg and require ~20kW (=27bhp). A lot of this weight is the electric motor and muckle steel plates for installation; obviously the metal work might be reduced but the motor is going to be big to use that sort of power.
And the power has to come from somewhere - in this case, the electricals system. 20kW at 12v is 1,600 amps. Hmm, you're alternator won't be supplying that and you may need to use many kg of copper and about 5 good batteries to provide and conduct that sort of current.
Even a brilliant design that was several times as efficient would still require all the current your car battery can deliver and would run it flat in minutes.
Cheers,
Robin