scraping noise... wheel bearing?

[Rich H]

Hey all.
Finally dug the Liz out and I have a new noise.
NS corner sounds like a disc scraping - but it's not doesn't change with braking, but does change with speed, noisier on RH corners.

Wheel bearing? Any way of chacking? It seems solid...
If so is it a DIY job or does it really need pressing out/in? Best place for a bearing - Liz parts? I'll do the ball joints while I'm there.

It's due an MOT soon so might throw it a Phoenix to fix.

Looks like it's eaten another blue temp sender too... temp gauge is all over the place but everything seems OK, it mostly changes on bumps....

TIA
Rich

[Mikie711]

Rich,
If it is a bearing then jack up the car and grab the suspected wheel at 12 o clock and 6 o clock and see if there is ant movement, try spinning it and listen to see if it sounds noisy. You will know if it is that one. As for changing them they do take a fair bit of force to remove the drive flange from the bearing and the bearing from the hub carrier. Someone else might have a trick for getting them out without a press but I have always had to use one. Having said that because I have a press I have never tried any other way. Usually takes about 5-7 tons to get them to move.

[Rich H]

Not a hammer and a vice then?
Thanks, looks like I'll get it up on sticks and have a feel about...
I'll get Phoenix to change it if it's wobbly.

Ta
Rich

[whaleys]

The advice I was given was to jack it up and give the wheel a spin holding onto the shock absorber. If you feel vibrations through it, it's most probably a wheel bearing.

Graeme


P.S. I was also give the advice that you could just replace the entire hub, its more expensive but you obviously don't need a press. You can replace the whole thing, get the bearing replaced in the old hub at a later date and you will have a spare should you need to go through the process again.

[Shug]

P.S. I was also give the advice that you could just replace the entire hub, its more expensive but you obviously don't need a press. You can replace the whole thing, get the bearing replaced in the old hub at a later date and you will have a spare should you need to go through the process again.

Pretty expensive way to go about a simple job! Plus, the new upright is unlikely to be exactly the same as the old, so you won't be able to just slap in the same camber shims and get the same geo as the existing one - so add the cost of a camber check on that side.

Rich, remember if you're pressing it out yourself, to heat the upright first. New bearing in the freezer overnight.

[Rich H]

I'll jack it up and swing on it make sure it's not too bad (It passed gorilla test on the deck) and I'll get Phoeinx to do it they will ave done thousands of them no doubt.

My car has the origianls m12 lh/rh hub bolts - worth spending more to change them?

[BiggestNizzy]

I took mine to kwik fit to get the bearing pressed out and a new one in, they look terrified and let me do it myself

[Rich H]

They are properly useless round here - took them 3 goes to hang an exhaust off her old Corsa last time...

I'll have a proper look later.

Thinking about it it could be a spashguard... that would make the same noises... shouldn't change with cornering though...

[Shug]

They are properly useless round here - took them 3 goes to hang an exhaust off her old Corsa last time...

I'll have a proper look later.

Thinking about it it could be a spashguard... that would make the same noises... shouldn't change with cornering though...

Shouldn't, but almost always does IME. Totally different noise to a bearing though - very scratchy scraping, bearing is a rumble. If it's scraping, far more likely to be a stone - reverse hard and slam the anchors

[Mikie711]

Shug's right, before refitting the new one slap the upright in the oven for 20mins 90 deg C IIRC. Just did a couple last night as it happens, 340r steel uprights but same same. And yes change to the M16 hub bolts if only for piece of mind. The M12 look awful skinny next to them.

[Rich H]

It's definately a scraping noise I'll have it all to bits later and give it a good going over.

[2F45T4U]

mine did that on the front N/S.

turned out it was the disc protector flange. There was a blob of rust on the disc and it was grating on the thin plate. scraped it with a file and bent the plate out a baw-hair and never heard it since.

[Stewart]

Rich

On my S1 I had what would appear to be very similar symptoms. I actually thought it was the mudflap scarping as I entered roundabouts quite quickly. When I jacked it up I couldn't really feel any play. I wasn't until I took the wheel and the brake disc off it then felt quite obvious.

Other than the press it's a relatively simple job. As you mentioned I also changed the ball joints at the same time. My brother has access to a press although we did damage the first bearing resulting in a further £40+

I bought the bearings from a local bearing place in Cupar.

There used to be an excellent guide at TATDS.COM but I don't see the one specific to wheel bearing any more. There is still some handy guides in respect of balljoints and TREs.

[Rich H]

It was sunny and the bees needed bothering...
I'll get round to it this weekend.

Ta
Rich