Track rod ends
Track rod ends
A few front suspension clonks on track last month led me to have a poke about and (I think) diagnose that a new track rod end is needed (the gaiter is split at least so it needs changing - I'm just hoping that it's the only problem...).
Anyhow, I've now got a new track rod end from Eliseparts but am having a ponder before fitting: is it just a matter of unscrewing the old one, putting the new one on & tightening it up, or will that dramatically throw the toe in/out from where it should be?? If it would, is there any way that I can reliably check what I'm doing without having a proper geo check done??
Thanks
Tim
Anyhow, I've now got a new track rod end from Eliseparts but am having a ponder before fitting: is it just a matter of unscrewing the old one, putting the new one on & tightening it up, or will that dramatically throw the toe in/out from where it should be?? If it would, is there any way that I can reliably check what I'm doing without having a proper geo check done??
Thanks
Tim
I would get a geo done as there is no garuntee that the 2 track rods are exactly the same length etc until it's too late. You could jury rig some buts of string and do it yourself, but I wouldn't bother. The toe out on the front is something silly like 0.2mm
At least get it checked by your local 3d align place they will be able to give a rough estimate....
Rich
At least get it checked by your local 3d align place they will be able to give a rough estimate....
Rich
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
I just replaced a TRE this weekend with an elisepart's one. They seem to be slightly shorter in overall length compared to the one I took off (OEM?).
What I did was measure from the centre of the TRE which goes into the steering arm to the rack where the gaiter starts. Then when I put the new one on, I again measured. I know that this is in no way acurate, but should hopefully do until I can get at least the alignment if not geometry set up. This will depend on time and money.
Going on holiday soon and have just replaced 4 balljoints, 1 TRE, 1 wheel bearing and 4 brake disks. I have also just found out that I now need another wheel bearing. My wallet is groaning

What I did was measure from the centre of the TRE which goes into the steering arm to the rack where the gaiter starts. Then when I put the new one on, I again measured. I know that this is in no way acurate, but should hopefully do until I can get at least the alignment if not geometry set up. This will depend on time and money.
Going on holiday soon and have just replaced 4 balljoints, 1 TRE, 1 wheel bearing and 4 brake disks. I have also just found out that I now need another wheel bearing. My wallet is groaning
Stewart
Tends to be the balljoints that clunk....Scottd wrote:Do track rod ends make clunky noises when needing replaced? Mines look old but aren't split or nothing, I have a couple of new one's sitting in the garage.
By the way, someone's selling Timken wheel barings really cheap on eBay these days!
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
And Toe links?Shug wrote:Tends to be the balljoints that clunk....Scottd wrote:Do track rod ends make clunky noises when needing replaced? Mines look old but aren't split or nothing, I have a couple of new one's sitting in the garage.
By the way, someone's selling Timken wheel barings really cheap on eBay these days!
S1 50th Ann.
When I owned my car for the first time
I used to get a clunking/knocking from the rear of the car on hot days. I was always led to believe that this was the rear toelinks, however, Lee told me that when he put the S2 suspension on he also replaced one of the rear ball joints. The clunking has since disappeared.
So all in all, no help there at all from me
So all in all, no help there at all from me
Stewart
Ball joints are time consuming but easy enough if my knackered old S1 is anything to be going by. But FFS please check the joints before starting, make sure they are the correct pattern!!
Rich
Rich
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
At the back, yes. You were talking about TRE's which are at the front - is the noise coming from front or back?Scottd wrote:And Toe links?Shug wrote:Tends to be the balljoints that clunk....Scottd wrote:Do track rod ends make clunky noises when needing replaced? Mines look old but aren't split or nothing, I have a couple of new one's sitting in the garage.
By the way, someone's selling Timken wheel barings really cheap on eBay these days!
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Could be balljoints, could be toe-links if it's at the rear. Jack it up and have a wiggle at the wheel. If it's the balljoints, the wheel should have some play in the 12/6 o'clock positions. There won't necessarily be any detectable play with the toe-links, as the grease can just dry out and cause the knocking....simon wrote:Think I need some balljoints then![]()
Got a funny knocking noise from the rear that I only hear at low speed cold or warm. Almost sounds like something is bouncing around in the boot and hitting the rear clam but it's not that (and yes, I have checked)
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R