Scottish Elises

Hi

When my 1999 S1 (33000 miles) has warmed up (about 20 minutes driving) there is a knocking from the rear when travelling very slowly, which seems (slightly) related to bumps. You can also get the noise by rocking the car when you stop.

The noise is NOT there when the car is cold - either stopped or moving.

From reading the forum and websites it seems it might be shock absorbers or ball joints. Any ideas from anyone, please?

Thanks

Simon

There's a chance it's the toe link joints drying out. There's also a chance it's a damper - do you have the standard Konis?

Without hearing them, it's difficult to describe, but the damper is more of a billiard ball clunk, where the toe link is more of a knock.

Where are you based? Somebody local should be able to have a gander....

Had any of the rear suspension changed since new ?

My S2 does exactly the same. It's even fine all through winter but come summer it has exactly the same symptoms.

The noise for me is kind of like the noise the car makes when its cooling down, the sound of the metal contracting or something but loosely related to going over bumps as mentioned above.

The_Rossatron wrote:My S2 does exactly the same. It's even fine all through winter but come summer it has exactly the same symptoms.

The noise for me is kind of like the noise the car makes when its cooling down, the sound of the metal contracting or something but loosely related to going over bumps as mentioned above.

Points towards toe links...

Is there a scientific-magic test to find out which one? it's doing my head in.

Sorry for the thread hijack but i think it's the same thing

and where would one purchase a toe link at non MMC prices

ta

The_Rossatron wrote:Is there a scientific-magic test to find out which one? it's doing my head in.

Sorry for the thread hijack but i think it's the same thing

Okay, get down behind the car and locate the toe links (I'm writing this assuming no knowledge, so sorry if it's a bit playschool) These are the single bars to the rear, connecting hub with chassis. Better to do this when the car is warmed and they are making the noise.

Grab them and twist. They should be stiffish, but smooth and rotate a little (like 10 degrees or so) There should be no side to side movement or free play in them - if they are too loose, it also points to which one it is.

Good thing is if it's only the one, you'll be able to tell the difference - also, 9 out of 10 times, it's the inner joint on the nearside that goes first. To do with it being closer to the exhaust routing, but there should be a wee heatshield on the S2s

The_Rossatron wrote:
and where would one purchase a toe link at non MMC prices

ta

If it's just a dried up joint, you can purchase these IIRC from Lotus, for not silly money. Just buy the joint(s) though, they might try and sell you the whole shebang including rod - Dan at JPS (roadboy on here) should also be able to mail you some.

Thanks for the info - will try the twisting tomorrow.

I don't know if the suspension or shocks have been changed - certainly not since I have had the car (last October).

Am in Linlithgow.

Simon

Ok, I did the checks for ball joints and toe links.
I couldn't feel any play in the right rear wheel and couldn't jack the left side up as I couldn't be arsed moving the other cars about to give me room.
I couldn't move the toe links at all, tried twisting them but they just wouldn't budge.

What I did discover though, is that I think I can recreate the noise by pushing down on the drivers side sill and bouncing the car. I couldn't figure out where it's coming from though but does that suggest anything to anyone?

Non-moving toe links is possibly bad or you need to eat more weetabix

Toms would only move after bouncing the car about a bit as they seemed to stick, should be very stiff but smooth. Watch them as you jack the car and the weight comes off them, see if the seem to be sticking and juddering

Yup - best to move the toe links either when you've just stopped the car, or like Rich says, bounce it a bit first.

The bouncing does suggest balljoints or toe links still mate....

If it's deffo the drivers side (does it make the noise if you bounce the pax side?) then there is another balljoint check.

First off, do make sure it's not the toe links - make sure they move (after bouncing the car) and like Rich says, look at them when you jack the car - do they judder on the way up?

When you've got the car jacked up, take off the wheel and get a big flat screwdriver. Place the blade between balljoint and upright (where the balljoint rubber gaiter is) Then try to force the upright up, away from the balljoint (making sure the screwdriver blade is pivoting on a bit of the wishbone and not the balljoint gaiter or body)

If there is the slightest movement - it's knackered. Take a reference point to check (as the screwdriver handle will flex a bit, so it will move) This may not present itself at the wheel, but it'll still clunk.

simon wrote:What I did discover though, is that I think I can recreate the noise by pushing down on the drivers side sill and bouncing the car. I couldn't figure out where it's coming from though but does that suggest anything to anyone?

Yeah I can recreate the noise like that too, haven't checked my toe links yet tho

Well I tried the toe links again and I can get one side to move but the other I can't because of the position of the undertray and the proximity to my wrist and the fear of slashing it when my hand inevitably slips

So having jacked the car up, I tried to recreate the noise by moving the car up and down by lifting a little under the wheelarch. This seems to work and strangely it does it on either side. The noise seems to be coming from the middle of the engine bay somewhere, posibly near the bottom. I'm going to take the undertray off over the weekend and see if I can find anything but it looks like I can rule out ball joints or toe links now.

Engine mounts? Check them all anyway there are 3 IIRC. Check all the CV
boots for splits too, if one has gone the joints can dry out real fast.

Rich