Scottish Elises

Any time saving hints or things to look out for when removing the front clam from my 111r? (the bloody heater motor resistor pack has given up!!) All helpful hints gratefully received, may god have mercy on me!!

Hi Paul, I've never had a clam off but more than happy to come along and help. Seloc tech Wiki should highlight any tricky bits ,I'll go take a look.

your a star lee
cheers paul

Hi, I've done it twice in 2 years now, resistor pack & then radiator. It's quite simple. P.S. is it an AC or non AC unit?

& There are a number threads on here too.

You'll need;
1.Service manual; this shows you where all the bolts are that need to be removed.
2.A garage that you can open both car doors fully; or undo the bolts at the bottom of the A Pillar before you drive into the garage.
3.Jack the car up at the front & take the wheels & wheel arch liners off to get access to the bolts holding the clam onto the crash structure & side panels and to remove the undertray.
4.Once all the bolts are undone & electrics to the lights disconnected, the you'll need help to lift off the clam to avoid twisting or cracking it. the clam needs to come up to clear the radiator mounting frame and forward a bit then rotate the nose down to free it off the crash structure.
5. replace the cam with fresh bolts & fixings. this makes things easier goiing on (& coming off next time)

hope this helps.

a few things to be aware of ...as, i discovered......are seized bolts and bolts missing........would recommend getting some new replacement ones, just in case...the trickiest ones i found were the ones connecting the side pillar panels………take your time and don’t get frustrated, as it’s a long job…..when lifting the clam off its best to have another set of hands and lift from the wheel arches…

when replacing the clam make sure all the sim’s are in the right place and check the gaps....also, open both doors to check that they don’t make contact with the clam edge!.. this may occur after a few miles down the line as the clam settles.....

leigh

And when you put all those fresh bolts in, regular ones should be coppa-slipped or similar which will help them come out easier in future. Certain ones might need threadlocked, OTOH, but I'm no expert as to which Just a thought.

If non a/c, you can do it through the service panels. That's what I and a couple of others have done, albeit with scraped knuckles and shouting a few sweary words in frustration as it is tight....but do-able.

thanks to all for the helpful replies. Mine is a non A/C model , its a series 11 111r with the toyota engine 2004 model, I've been told by some its impossible to change the resistor pack on this model without removing the clam, as the brake servo is in the way, but some say it can be done!! if its possible, I'll give it a go (try anything once!)
anybody know for sure??
cheers

Hmm... Mine was non a/c and non servo. Not sure where servo is located so guess this may be a limiter

I think the servo would stop play (having had a look in the front of Elaines) Or at least, it'd be enough of a ball-ache that I'd just pull the clam.

TBH, the clam removal isn't a tough job. In fact, the first time you do it (assuming nothing seized) you may well decide it's just worth whipping it off for other jobs that are 'possible' with it in situ for future. For the S2, 2 people really required (clams thinner and more fragile) but you can whip an S1 one off single-handed with no real problems. Just stick the bolts back where they came out of (with the shims) to remember where the shims went, while you're working in there.

Shug wrote:I you may well decide it's just worth whipping it off for other jobs that are 'possible' with it in situ for future.

on that note; if you've ever considered changing to braided brake hoses. this would also be the ideal time to do them. can be done w tht e clam on byt so much easier with it off.