Exhaust Wrapping???

[mikeyb13]

Been considering wrapping the manifold and exhaust on the Elise.
Its getting really hot back there. You could hardly touch the rear clam it was so hot after a dozen or so laps of spa. Think the heat may be contibuting to what seems to be lamda issues.
Looking for general advice. Stu160 mentioned spacers for the rear undertray that allow a bit more hot air out and have seen undertrays with vents. Pro and cons from those who have tried the options available would be appreciated.

[r10crw]

I think the spacers help but you really need to wrap the exhaust. If you have a alloy rear boot which from your avatar you may have then you may be able to do this in situ. To be honest Jim V did mine with me help from me off the car and even then it was a PITA, after a few years it will need redone as well. If you take the manifold off it may be worth getting it ceramic coated but have heard mixed reports about this.
Not much help I know Craig.

[Rich H]

Did my S1 4-2-1 and it was a right old pain.
It'll smoke and stink for weeks after fitting
It'll steam like mad if it gets damp
it'll fall off in chunks after a few months.
It itches like mad for ages
Horrible job to do full stop.

I painted mine with high temp paint too which helped keep it together for longer but it was still a horrible job and I'd never do it again.
Look at the coatings instead.

[hiscot]

I have a turbo in mine so looked at this in depth
I use heat wrap and also open the clam side vents by removing the grills and fit side scoops
my last clam I cut around the reverse / fog lamp spaced the rear number plate with the clam cut out and a matching grill fitted
for sprints I may be wrong but I dont think they allow body mods above the centre wheel line but have seen a row of hole cuts along the very bottom of the clam ( more effective than spacing the diffuser ? you could try both )

[Sanjøy]

Rear number plat off and cooling holes & cut away behind the Fog & reverse lights.

Or just ruin it



2p

[BiggestNizzy]

I have big side scoops and have noticed the car runs 3-4 degree's cooler

[mikeyb13]

Thanks for the replies. The only gauges I have are for water temp but the engine itself seems to be running cool enough. Usually about 88 on trackdays usually 86 on the road.
It just seems to be the exhaust that gets too hot and the Lamda doesnt like it.
Not sure about the look of the side scoops, like the fact the car looks like a bit of a sleeper, they are a bit of a tell tale sign, are they removable? And would they have any effect on exhaust temps? Certainly not drilling holes in the clam thanks.
Would love to ceramic coat the whole system but ££££s

edit Well maybe not that much phoned camcoat quoted roughly 180 to do the manifold inside and out satin black which seems resonable. Need exhaust dimensions for a quote for the full system if anyone knows them? But Im thinking the manifold and possibly decat would be enough.

[Ferg]

I didn't realise they'd do the inside!? Does that mean it's done in some kind of bath?

I've seen larger NACA scoops for the undertray somewhere, not sure that would help without appropriate measures to evacuate the increased air volume but a cheap and non invasive addition to the cooling.

[foz01]

I wrapped my exhaust and also added spacers, I just cut down a small bore aluminium pipe.

I wrapped mine off the car btw, doing it on is a huge pain in the ass, so was
Off the car to be honest!

[mikeyb13]

No problems with the monifold section getting wet? Was planning on getting the manifold ceramic coated. Wrapping the exhaust up to the back box as it not as exposed to the elements. Considering fitting the spacers for trackdays only.

[foz01]

If the wrapping gets wet it will soon dry off

I wrapped the entire system to be honest, will see how good an idea that is come
Trackdays :p

And your supposed to wet it when doing it as helps the wrap contract slightly when drying and also reduces the airborne particles which are horrible, I of course didn't wet
Mine an had to do it outside as the irritation was getting so bad.

[Rich H]

When it gets wet it'll steam (and stink) for the first 10 mins of any trip.

[hiscot]

Quote "It just seems to be the exhaust that gets too hot and the Lamda doesnt like it."
Tbh I cannot see how heat wrap will help , if anything it will make the exhaust / lambda hotter ie keep the heat in
My Lambda is situated right next to a very hot turbo and very close to the cat , no heat issues whatsoever !
what problems is your lambda giving ?

bob

[Gourlay83]

Quote "It just seems to be the exhaust that gets too hot and the Lamda doesnt like it."
Tbh I cannot see how heat wrap will help , if anything it will make the exhaust / lambda hotter ie keep the heat in
My Lambda is situated right next to a very hot turbo and very close to the cat , no heat issues whatsoever !
what problems is your lambda giving ?

bob

I don't think it's the sensor but the wiring being cooked by the subframe (02 sensor wiring is inside the subframe) so acts like an over. It has shielding etc but might not be enough. The engine warning light comes on now and again with a lambda fault. I don't know if Mike has checked this, as i suggested he had a look.

It has a wideband fitted, so personally I would spend a bit of time mapping all the fuel tables (including light throttle) and then remove the sensor for track use. Save the cost of lambda sensors, as i went through a couple. It's nice to have closed loop operations for the road but no need for the track.

My opinion anyway.

Mike - I think you're a bit of worrier . Just incase you didn't know, when your accelerating the ECU does not use the lambda. Uses a fixed table, preset by whoever mapped it (me, probably). Lambda is used in closed loop to trim fuel on steady throttle (cruising & idle). If you map it critically for every table, you can run without it if you want. Simply turn it off on Kpro.

If you want, we can spend an afternoon mapping all the tables and can go through it with you ?

Alan

[mikeyb13]

Cheers Alan. Yep its still the map you did. Ive not been brave enough to even attempt altering it.
All Ive done is check the fault codes. Always the same, primary O2 sensor. Goes off after I turn the car off and on again. Your not the first knowledgable person to tell me Im worrying about nothing.

Its certainly running well enough. But it got so hot at Spa you could hardly touch the rear clam. So dont think any mods to reduce engine bay temps wouldn't be a bad idea?

Would appreciate a kpro lesson but I can wait till your done with your own project first mate