Scottish Elises

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Is your engine standard?

Air filter recently cleaned/replaced?

The valve won't operate by force from the outside - you need the stepper motor inside to turn - you can make it do this just by turning the engine on/off with the IACV out but watch out because I think it relies on the end stop; you can force the thing to completely unscrew itself and fall apart in your hand ...

Cheers,
Robin

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Oh it might be the IACV - just if you've got non-standard maps or cams then you can get this problem anyway - also if your airfilter is rubbish then you can get grit in the valve that causes it to stick.

You might also have a vac leak into the manifold - I also remember the gasket that joins the upper to lower half of the alloy plenum failing on one of my cars and this creates a small vac leak.

Can also be caused by throttle pot problems - if the ECU doesn't see the throttle as fully closed it won't go into the idle mode properly. You could try the old ECU reset trick, just to see if it makes a short term difference - ignition on, pump throttle pedal full travel up/down 10 times and then switch ignition off. Wait 60 seconds and then start it up again. If that "fixes" it then it will only be short term fix but indicates TPS issue. A live data OBD tool is helpful for finding out what is actually going on.

Cheers,
Robin

Up late........

tut

Busy

hi scott...got problems i know the feeling ...

only thing i can give is probably the obvious but i try.......if it’s not the IACV then you maybe have a vacuum leak somewhere...guess check all pipe in and out of the induction area....

i assume you have taken out the filter and changed or cleaned? she has done a few track day now and you do tend to get a lot of crap in there....

also…does she have a VSV like the yota as that can cause the idle to move up and down if not working properly?

oh just thought i m sure i have a spare filter that may fit you induction box its a itg, i bought it by mistake along while ago...i will have a rumage tonight and post a pic



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Hi, I have a spare IAVC & air filter for the K. You are welcome to pop over and try them if you wish? Also, I identified a leak in my inlet gasket by spraying airfilter & carb cleaner on it while the engine was running.

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3 times on 2 K-cars I had stalling/hunting/high idling issues and have been all round the houses cleaning and testing IACV, TPS, looking for vacuum leaks etc. Each time it turned out to be the ecu temp sensor (the brown one?) at fault. Presumably engine temp is one of the ecu map parameters and an incorrect reading screws with IACV position..?

Maybe not, but a cheap part and worth eliminating if the Dom's spares don't help.

I had the exact same issue you describe (mine happened after the battery died) turned out the IACV was not returning to the correct position. When you turn the key to the second position and the dash lights up you should hear the IACV buzz/move to open/close. When it completes switch ignition off, do that 3-4 times see how that goes.

Here is the topic I raised at the time and got good advice...

http://www.scottishelises.com/phpbb/vie ... ll#p355489

Graeme

graeme wrote:3 times on 2 K-cars I had stalling/hunting/high idling issues and have been all round the houses cleaning and testing IACV, TPS, looking for vacuum leaks etc. Each time it turned out to be the ecu temp sensor (the brown one?) at fault. Presumably engine temp is one of the ecu map parameters and an incorrect reading screws with IACV position..?

Maybe not, but a cheap part and worth eliminating if the Dom's spares don't help.

I have a spare temp sensor too!

(guess who also previously had idling issues)

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RAMTOP_ERROR wrote:
Dom, just had a thought - your spare IACV will be for the s1; the s2 uses a different part.

Fairy muff. If you want to, "upgrade" you know where it is

I had the same problem on my S1 exige on a couple of occassions. It was split vacuum pipes on the inlet the first time then a badly fitted inlet manifold gasket (doubt that will be the case in yours)