Scottish Elises

Hi all

So after having the car parked up for winter and discovering the battery had died (can still use the key fob to open the doors but it won't disarm the immobiliser) I bought a new battery and just tried to change it over. Now it seems that the key fob won't even open the doors and switch off the alarm.

Other than not being such an idiot next winter any advice on how to proceed?
Is the car completely dead now? i.e. can I open the doors/boot without fear of the alarm going off?
Will the alarm to off but be stopped by using the fob? I'm thinking the battery's too dead to operate the central locking but will still be enough to disable the alarm...

All help much appreciated...thanks

What car is it ... we don't know unless you tell us.

At least some of the S2 exige have a charging point under the front service panel that can be used to hook up a trickle charger and would be OK to hook up a normal battery charger to. I wouldn't suggest jump starting through this, though, but OK to charge battery.

When the battery charger is hooked up, you'll probably find there is enough juice to open the doors.

Of course if you can open the door with the normal key action (i.e. like non-central locking cars) then just do that.

With the boot open once you've disconnected the battery the alarm might get pissed off but chances are it's own klaxon battery is dead anyway.

Make sure you triple check the battery polarity before fitting it - if you reverse the battery you will break something in many Elise variants (some are worse than others, e.g. 111S).

Cheers,
Robin

Thanks for the reply. It's a 57 plate Elise s2, Toyota engine.

That's the battery swapped over and it's running. Now I just need to figure out why the engine light is on and how to un-seize the brakes!

Thanks for the info robin

To release the brakes put it in reverse clutch down, give it some revs, bounce the clutch up and down - should give you a hammer action that will release the brakes (assuming it's the rears).

Engine light is probably on because the battery was dead and it's forgotten some settings or similar. A few start/stop cycles should clear it. Provided it isn't flashing, safe to ignore for a while and see if it "goes away".

Cheers,
Robin

Unfortunately it's the front but I might use the same technique with the foot brake...cheers for the advice. Always good to hear from someone in the know!

He learnt it all from me over the years........



tut

If the rears have sufficient grip and the fronts are locked you'll probably just drag the fronts across the tarmac without rotating them. I might try to put some weight over the front wheels, but obviously you need to be careful because the clam can only take so much abuse before it cracks. Loading a couple of bags of sand onto the grills above the rad might work, though. Don't use the footbrake at all. Just put it in reverse and bounce the clutch up and down. You're trying to jerk the car back - i.e. the exact opposite of a smooth driving style

Also you can jack up the car at the front (well at the side to raise the front) and then using a breaker bar attached to the wheel nut you can achieve something similar - rock it back and forth.

Worst case you'll need to remove the road wheel and free off the brakes manually - possibly by removing the R-clips that hold the pads pins in and tapping the pads out, then push the pistons back and refit the pads, driving the car away without pressing the footbrake for a few 100 yards. If it gets to this state, though, you should just take it to MMC and get them to sort it out - badly seized brakes might free off but leave pads/pistons or disk surfaces damaged.

Cheers,
Robin

The wheel seems to spin fine it's just dragging on the brakes. Maybe I'm wrong and it's not the brakes but it doesnt really sound too healthy. Brakes were the easiest suggestion given that it's been stationary for 4 months. Don't have access to a jack so if anyone knows a garage in the leith area I could hobble to that would be great!

Might be time to bite the bullet and get it AA towed to MMC (after buying membership that is)

undone wrote:The wheel seems to spin fine it's just dragging on the brakes.

If I'm reading you right it's just that the brakes sound like their 'dragging' but the car will drive? If that is the case a couple of hard applications of the brakes to clean up the surfaces might be all it needs.

Or just drive it to MMC slowly ....

j2 lot wrote:

undone wrote:The wheel seems to spin fine it's just dragging on the brakes.

If I'm reading you right it's just that the brakes sound like their 'dragging' but the car will drive? If that is the case a couple of hard applications of the brakes to clean up the surfaces might be all it needs.

I agree, probably just corrosion on the disc surfaces. Take it for a run and make some light, then increasingly firm brake applications. This will clean the disc surfaces.

Thanks for the replies guys.
j2 lot/Scottish scrutineer - it seems to coast quite freely albeit with a dragging noise. So far driving up and down the road with some enthusiastic braking isn't freeing up much!

It's due a visit to the garage anyway so I might just hobble along carefully.
Thanks again!

For next winter,.. is the car stored inside or outside?

Stored outisde - the only reason it's been idle this year tho was because I've been waiting for a part to get it to pass the MOT since mid november!