Steering rack removal - help!

[Corranga]

So, i'm trying to remove the rack on my s1.
I'm at the bit where i remove the steering column UJ from the the rack pinion, only it won't shift at all.

I've loosened the bolt that's pulling the UJ together to allow the pinion free, but it won't come out.

I'm at a loss as to what to try next, any ideas..?

Cheers,
Chris

[Mikie711]

I take it you can't get the UJ to split off the splines on the column shaft or from the steering rack. If that is the case then you will need to remove the bolt completely and stick a descent size flat blade screw driver in the split of the UJ clamp and prize it a bit. This will open out the clamp part of the UJ enough for it to slide apart.

[Corranga]

Yep, that's exactly it. I have now tried removing the uj bolt, but it's getting tighter instead of looser on the way out

[Corranga]

Got it!

Now to remove the rack itself..!

[woody]

There's a groove on the pinion splines that means the bolt has to be fully removed; the bolt sits in the groove so b that everything lines up correctly.

[Mikie711]

Woody's right, should have mentioned that I usually mark the UJ and shaft with tipex so when you come to put it back together it goes back the same. That said with you removing the rack it won't matter as you'll have to center the rack once you refit it anyway to make sure you have even turns either side of straight ahead.

[Corranga]

Once the pinion was free, after removing the bolt completely, the rack just slid out. Slipped the new rack in, and can't for the life of me get the pinion back in
Left it for tomorrow. I marked the steering at full right lock, and put the new rack in at full right lock, maybe not the best theory since I can't get the UJ back on, never mind.

Is there any good reason I shouldn't just get it all back together then remove the steering wheel, straighten and reattach?

Chris

[robin]

You may need to support the rack so it is a little higher up to align spline. You can center wheel by removing and refitting. Make sure you have the same number of turns to both left and right end stops. Oh and the wheel is a pig to pull off!

[Ferg]

I got the bolts on a coupld of turn s that helped. Have you got an original lower column on the elise parts welded one? Having the original column allows some extra movement by losening the lower bit of the upper UJ. However I've since replaced the lower column...in error trying to find the source fo some slack.

You sick of being upside down in the footwell yet?

[woody]

I found I had to slacken, but not remove, the hidden bolt that clamps the top UJ to the upper column to allow enough wiggle to refit the bottom UJ. Not my favourite job ever, but do-able with two 13mm spanners.

Wheel isn't too hard to remove if you have a puller. I have one I made for my old 306's rear drums that works well on the Elise wheel (available to borrow for SE of course). If you use a puller or not, make sure the nut is on the shaft by a couple of threads, that way it won't fire off & smack you in the face.

If you have, as I did a couple of weeks ago, chewed the removed UJ bolt, I have courtesy of Robin and MMC, the last bolt is existence here. Ive been away so not fitted it yet.

[Corranga]

I have the original uj, with bolts lose at the column end, and our at the rack end, still doesn't offer enough play to easily attach or remove. I think I need the rack to sit more straight to get the uj on, but getting it a couple of threads on means there isn't enough movement..

The inner half of the threads on the uj bolt are stripped but I reckon there is enough to safely refit as those well sit in the uj and not the nut. I presume it's a strange size then..

[campbell]

All this underlines why even Robin said he is never ever doing one of these ever ever again...

[Corranga]

You sick of being upside down in the footwell yet?

I've been upside down so much, I think my body now defaults to being upside down and being the right way up is the wrong one!

All this underlines why even Robin said he is never ever doing one of these ever ever again...

I must have missed that advice!

Rack is in, wheels are pointing in some interesting directions though I set them roughly with 2x axle stands + string.
I presume I'm right in thinking that I have to take wheel off, pop ball joint, screw track rod ends to adjust properly, or am I being stupid and there is a much easier way!?
Booked in for MOT, service and geo on Thursday.

My local garage, whom I've used since I started driving back in '99 now has a snazzy new Hunter 4 wheel laser alignment rig installed, so at least he'll get a chance to play with it!

Chris

[Mikie711]

Just back off the lock nut and turn the track rod. No need to pop the ball joint. The track rod will turn inside the steering rack just watch that the gaiter doesn't get twisted. There will either be flats or a hex section in the track rod for a spanner.

[Corranga]

Doh!

I figured it needed to be popped as the gaiter was twisting, maybe the cable tie is a tad tight, I suppose I could chop it off and replace.

I ended up getting the rack in by....
Removing the column from the 2nd UJ.
Inspecting the bottom UJ, there was some wear / mashing right at the very end of some of the teeth (like maybe 1-2mm, nothing more, but enough to mean that fitting was tight).
I removed the UJ completely, gave it a good clean / run a screwdriver down the mashed teeth to try straighten out.
Got it to the point where it fitted the old rack.
Turned it around so that the column fitted in the worn end (so I had the easier end for the new rack!)
Removing the 3 bolts to allow maximum 'shortening' of the rack.
Piecing it together in the car.
Replaced the bolts to hold in place, but not tighten to allow movement as I fitted the rack properly.
Fit the rack.
Tighten everything.

The steering wheel is about 3/4 of a turn from straight, but I'm past caring.
I'm popping into the garage tonight so will ask if my mechanic has a steering wheel puller I can borrow, otherwise, Woody I'll take you up on your kind offer to borrow yours, will PM tonight if need be.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Chris