Scottish Elises

Guys

Sorry for yet another newbie/annoying question but I really appreciate the replies I get on here

As part of Operation Lotus Resurrection I'm going to change the cam belt for the first time. I read that you need to cut down a 22mm socket due to limited room. I bought a 6 sided socket for maximum strength but its still a bit long. Its 40mm long and I cant quite get the 1/2" drive bar in at the same time. Is there ANY other way other than cutting the socket down to get in there and remove the bolt?

And presuming there is no other way, how the hell do the "pros" do this? Do they have a DIY cut down socket?

And if I need to, I take it an angle grinder and metal cutting disc would do it?

Sorry for the dumb questions again

Only 1,000,001 jobs still to do.

Thanks

James

I just ground mine down with an angle grinder, I think, though a metal cutting disc would me more sophisticated. You're welcome to borrow my cut down 22mm it if you happen to be in Edinburgh.

Haven't found a socket short enough. DIYing without the car on ramps, it's better to have something with a ratchet on it in my experience as it allows an easier movement (hands up to abusing my torque wrench for this). Had my sockets cut down in a lathe, make sure you use a decent one as the first cheapo I cut down cracked quite easily.

Thanks guys, thanks Robin for the offer. Since I have a specially bought one for the job I will get it cut/cut it myself. Then hope I am strong enough to move it. Its never been released since new - 12 years ago. Crikey!

It'll move OK. 5th gear, hand brake on (and/or somebody with their foot on the foot brake). Usual safety stuff - if the car is jacked up make sure it is stable - you'll be giving it a lot of torque (twice more than the engine generates!).

If you use the 5th gear approach you'll need to wind out all the backlash before you get to undoing it, so use a short ratchet first and wind out all the slack. Then switch to bar (or torque wrench ... bad form, but works ).

If you're going to change the cam belt note that it is worth removing the two 18mm headed engine mount bolts one at a time, keeping the other one well threaded at all times - this prevents the mount going out of alignment, which in turn makes it hard to re-thread (and easy to cross-thread) those bolts. You can wiggle the cable into the gap, then re-thread the first bolt, remove second bolt; reverse for wiggling in new belt.

Also note that with a mirror you can look along the grooves of the crank shaft timing gear; two of the teeth have dimples in the front face and the groove should then line up with a casting in the front face of the engine; make sure the crank is there before you remove the belt and then obviously don't turn the crank with the belt off as it is an interference engine.

Cheers,
Robin

Ok many thanks Robin.

I have a 2ft bar with a pivoting ratchet end to it - not sure where my Dad found it, but it does the job. Not sure it's worth buying a big bar specifically for the job, but it does get used on a variety of other stuff too (cracking wheel nuts off being a favourite) and the ratchet has stood up to some serious abuse.

The best way I found with the Evo was to have the long ratchet on the flywheel bolt and held up with an axle stand then a quick crank of the engine loosened it with no sweating whatsoever. Obviously take the spark plugs etc out but worked every time for me. Rag round the ratchet in case it goes skyward too.

Not sure if that would work on the Elise, but assume the bolt would be tightened in the same direction of engine rotation, i.e. clockwise.

I read somewhere about doing that but suspect it could be potentially damaging Will try good old fashioned long bar first

I've never used, or even thought of, using, Robin's 5th gear and brakes on approach. I've always used a square section screwdriver jammed into the flywheel teeth where the gap in the bell housing is. Robin's approach is probably more mechanically sympathetic.

My approach is lazy under no circumstances should you consider bigd's red neck approach. The engine will turn the correct (clockwise) orientation to undo the bolt . . . but I shudder to think about all the different ways it could go wrong Frankly I am shocked to hear such a suggestion from an otherwise responsible member of our community

robin wrote:My approach is lazy under no circumstances should you consider bigd's red neck approach. The engine will turn the correct (clockwise) orientation to undo the bolt . . . but I shudder to think about all the different ways it could go wrong Frankly I am shocked to hear such a suggestion from an otherwise responsible member of our community

I thought you may say that.

BigD - The Redneck mechanic!!

Funnily enough I think i did get the idea from our american cousins.

Anyway its safe as houses as long as you have your hard hat on.

woody wrote:...where the gap in the bell housing is.

Great theres a gap, thought I'd have to remove the starter motor. One less job: Tick

BigD wrote:
Anyway its safe as houses as long as you have your hard hat on.

And you're not particularly attached to anything breakable within a half mile radius...

I can just hear the splintering fibreglass as the bar exits stage right