Scottish Elises

Really dumb question.

Have had the front AP calipers refurbed as they were shot.

Simply disconnected the calipers and suspended the pipes while they were off. Do I need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front. I suspect I do. Also is it simply bleed in the order of furthest from the reservior to closet etc. Used to bleed brakes 30+ years ago but maybe things have changed....

M

Bleed the fronts while the calipers are still not mounted - that will allow you to rotate them and thus make sure any air in the inboard piston travels through the transfer pipe to the outboard piston.

I find that it is still worth bleeding by opening/closing the bleed nipple on each stroke - one way valves are great and worth using for bulk bleeding but air leaks back in the threads of the bleed nipple so when it comes to getting the last bit out it's worth doing it the old way.

I didn't think it mattered which order you bleed them in - I tend to jack up the right side of the car and bleed the right wheels, then the left.

All that said it must be 5 years since I did this (other than in the pits at some track or other ). I just let MMC do it - much easier!

Cheers,
Robin

On the sucked air past the bleed nipple threads point; it's a fairly common thing in motorbike circles to put some grease round the base of the bleed nipple, at the threads, to stop that happening when using a suction bleeder. Not sure why it's not a 'thing' in cars - maybe less effective with larger pitch threads in car calipers?

i just put some PTFE thread tape on the bleed nipples when i fitted Brembo's to my bike. worked a treat.

Will be doing 1 man bleeding so will have a pressurised system.

Is the comment re inverting the calipers valid for the AP racing jobbies??

Will most likely do all 4 corners.

Sup question. The rotors I have fitted are scored and have a lip on the inside disk edge but are still in excess of the min 24mm. I have been running CL6 pads. The CL6 pads still have a fair bit of life left in them but I also have spanking new CL5 pads. I know I can fit the CL5 pads to the scored disks but should I really be looking at new rotors before fitting the CL5's and just run the CL6's until they are done? Any advice on this accepted with open arms.

A nearly new set of rotors would also be accepted??

Martin

Is it fronts or rears you're needing Martin?

Anything with opposed pistons will have a transfer pipe and so I would say that yes, you should turn the calipers upside down if you can.

I would not fit the CL5 to badly scored rotors - best run the CL6 and rotors to death and then replace as a set. (I would probably not use CL5 either, but that's a personal choice thing ).

Cheers,
Robin

Sealey power bleeder, makes it all so painless

Neil. It is front rotors I need. For the big brake ap calipers. 305 I think.

I've got a set of bells and rotors that would fit although I think the rotors are only 24.5mm thick which going by your post above is close to the minimum. Where did you find the minimum thickness?

Somewhere on the Web. Not sure where but if they are in good nick then I could be persuaded to part with some beer tokens.

You're welcome to have a look and see what you think.